My Terrano Thread.

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I'll weld it 360 then. I'm happy with todays progress, my filler was rusty but maybe not as bad as yours Banshee. I'll tell you what though, there is dirt and crud up in everywhere, when I took the plastic guard for the filler neck off I had to wait 5mins for the dust to settle :lol
 
I'll weld it 360 then. I'm happy with todays progress, my filler was rusty but maybe not as bad as yours Banshee. I'll tell you what though, there is dirt and crud up in everywhere, when I took the plastic guard for the filler neck off I had to wait 5mins for the dust to settle :lol

Tell me about it!!!!! Mine turned out nice in the end, it's my big 33's flinging mud everywhere :naughty
 
Right peeps check this out, this is the end of the sill in the front wheel arch, rock solid....
WP_20170411_18_49_51_Pro.jpg
 
Chopped the bottom of the wing off, bashed it a bit and it fits perfect, I even managed to keep the contour which I am pleased about. It's bolted on as it should be and is solid but I will put a couple self tappers in....
WP_20170411_18_50_12_Pro.jpg
 
Ha,no crud up my flaps :lol
20160715_203313_zpsoagdhy4h.jpg
 
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Mr show off again :lol that's ace though, I'm gonna have a read through some black pearl threads again, now I have done quite a bit of welding on my truck I have a more appreciative eye for such things, and I want to see if I can nick any ideas :p
 
N/s sill cut out today, made and welded some pieces and welded new sill in, capped front and back off. A bit left to do in rear arch near seatbelt mount. Did some de-rusting with a wire wheel on drill ready for rust converter. Discovered more rust in n/s/f inner wheel arch/the bit the air filter mounts onto so that needs sorting :banghead, I'm gonna weld in a quick fix for the mot then re-structure it for a custom fit leisure battery afterwards....
20170413_183906.jpg
 
P.s, truck looks like it is precariously balanced in this pic :lol, it is however solid with a fail safe built up at the back :thumb2
 
Yeah brilliant work. Think how long the truck will last now you've sorted all the rust spots:thumbs
 
So I got a call from mot guy today, I need to put the rear anti-roll bar back on, I left the drop links on when I removed it so he could tell it should have one. Broken exhaust bracket/hanger needs fixing, easy job for me now I have a welder :D.

Before I took it in I repaired some wiring for a rear side light and checked that I had a full house, everything worked perfect. However mot guy says the rear lights are lik a mobile disco, any ideas what could have happened???
 
Usually a bad earth is the cause of that as one bulb draws it's earth through another, so they both light up although dimmer, Rick
 
You must be pleased with that. They're only niggles pal. Well done. :thumbs
Totally agree. Bad earth somewhere:thumb2
 
Sounds like an easy fix, I probably disturbed something when I shoved the wiring in to fit the lights in. I have a spare set of bulb holders, I might try and take the wires out of them and put new (longer) ones in and do a bit of a re-wire of the back lights, they are a bit delicate and dare I say unreliable.
 
Just to make you aware the wiring loom that exits the body shell on the ns behind the bumper also has fuel tank wiring so be careful with the wiring behind there.
If you struggle think I have some of the bulb holders too but not sure what the wiring is like.
Look out for any scotch locks as I've seen people connect towbar sockets into the wiring behind lights.
 
Just to make you aware the wiring loom that exits the body shell on the ns behind the bumper also has fuel tank wiring so be careful with the wiring behind there.
If you struggle think I have some of the bulb holders too but not sure what the wiring is like.
Look out for any scotch locks as I've seen people connect towbar sockets into the wiring behind lights.

Thanks Jim I didn't know that, I think I recall seeing some scotch locks inside the ns boot area for the towing I presume. The wiring on the bulb holders I have has been getting shorter every repair, I want to remove and put some long wires in and seal with something to stop corrosion. I might replace the multi plug connector thingy too as I can't figure out how to get the wires out without breaking them.
 
good easy waterproof connector method is crimps, but fill with silicon grease first, I use a syringe squirt it in one end till it comes out the other, stick the wires in and crimp, if you really want belt and braces then heat shrink sleeve as well, Rick
 
I just discovered today that the new truck has some kind of dedicated wiring kit for the towbar which I suspect may be genuine nissan. It basically has male and female connections for the big multiplug for the main loom and plugs in right there it's covered in crud so I suspect this will cause me some issues if it hasn't already. Would rather have connection inside the car even if it was scotch locks. I'll end up replacing it all with soldered joints and heat shrink inside the car.
 

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