"Terrance" - 04' Terrano II SE Commercial 2.7TDi Project Thread

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Oh!!!! Almost forgot as it's that boring but I swapped the pollen filter too :camping:

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Banshee said:
A few teething problems but I'm working on them, it seems that when the engine is running and I watch the fuel hose, there seems to be air drawn in via the electric pump which I need to address.
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That's not air being drawn in, that's oxygen being released as you boil your fuel.

:augie
 
emjaybee said:
That's not air being drawn in, that's oxygen being released as you boil your fuel.

:augie
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:lol :lol

I'd be happy running Oil now even out in Norway during the cruel winters :naughty

Just need a Kenlowe HotStart, should have snapped that one up that was on here back end of last year but I was skint :(
 
Yo Banshee just heads up for yard. I read that hot veggie fuel can dissolve the glue in some fuel filters. Might be with you checking it out just in case 😎🌲🍷 try goat industries or something.
 
makeitfit said:
Yo Banshee just heads up for yard. I read that hot veggie fuel can dissolve the glue in some fuel filters. Might be with you checking it out just in case 😎🌲🍷 try goat industries or something.
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Not these ones I'm using mate, they are special ones made by MANN Filters and are stamped to be BioProof, rang MANN up and asked about the temperature thresholds on them and they said I wasn't the first person to call up about that from the Bio community.

They wouldn't give me an actual tested and approved figure but had told me they should be good up to about 90-100 degrees no problem and have had reports that other Bio users are running those filters at that temperature.

They are Mann WK842/2
 

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makeitfit said:
Sussed it well and truly . Good man ��
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Research costs nothing!!!

I like to be as thorough as I can these days to ensure it's all plain sailing, however saying that I'm still having issues with it :(

More tinkering tonight, looks like this clear pipe I'm using is utter junk, looks like the jubilees I've used have cut into the pipe and I'm drawing in air into the fuel lines, I want to be able to see what the hell is going on in the pipes but looks like I'm going to have to replace the clear pipe for the rubber SAE Unleaded stuff again, really don't want too as it's opaque. it holds up fantastically against the heat though, probably something to do with the fact that it's almost 15mm overall diameter as opposed to the 10mm of the clear stuff.
 
All things veg

I'm still walking the path to enlightenment on my quest to seek answers to the question of why my bloody EML light keeps coming on and giving me code 21!!!

The download tells me that its either - fuel injection timing solenoid, injector needle-lift sensor, CKP sensor or air in fuel

I've replaced the needle lift sensor, and the CKP sensor already and cleared the codes, so it's either pump or air. If worst comes to worst I'll put a new pump on after doing the Viton seals which will make it forever veg proof :naughty

The last thing it could be is air, now I've already been in the tank once before to remove my swirl pot, at this time this felt like a good idea as I managed to totally block up the one on my Maverick with leaves and conifer needles. I then attached a small length of fuel hose to the feed line and pushed it into the corner of the tank so it was always submerged and sucking fuel but believe this could be my problem.

I decided to buy a new sender unit with a swirl chamber as I'd binned the gubbins from my old one. Upon ripping the inspection hatch from the boot floor I was greeted by a former bodge from the days of the old me, when removing the collar from the sender unit, I managed to sheer off 2 bolts meaning the sender wasn't secure in that section, as such when I've had a full tank and it's been sploshing around, it's leaked out and I've got a nice gloopy mess which seems to have congealed and cured the leak nicely :lol

Inside the tank seems a bit dirty too, I thought it was rust at first but it just seems to be warmed up veg residue I presume? Or old WVO stains which I don't use anymore.

Upon inspection I've also decided that I'm going to replace the fuel lines too, they had a lot of surface rust on them towards the rear of the truck which came off nicely when I wire brushed it but I just don't want to take the chance.

So that was it I decided it was off with the tank and out with the fuel lines. I'm going to be using copper for the fuel lines, tank will be getting a stripping back to bare metal and a very close inspection, any holes or defects and I'll be getting a replacement, otherwise it's going to be painted and a thorough clean out inside, if you're going to do it, do it right :thumb2

What I thought was rust :eek:
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Cleans straight off with a rag :cool:
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You can see the mess the leak has made around where the sender unit goes in on top of the tank
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When I did my tank build I noticed my old tank was just like yours inside. Pretty sure it's just veg Res :nenau
Good luck mucker :cool:
 
Bit more tinkering tonight, I started to clean up the fuel tank but I'm having problems with my drill, the wire brush attachment was making very light work of the job. Problem is, the waxoyl is coming off and then smearing back onto the tank, damn that stuff is strong!!!! I'm going to have to rub the tank down when I'm done with a microfibre and some white spirits and it should be lovely and shiny ready for some paint.

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Abandoning that plan, I decided to get under the truck and tackle the fuel lines, I removed all 6 of the securing clamps and low and behold I've snapped 3 into the chassis :doh 2 should be very easy to remove but one is inaccesible without removing the CV joint so I'll make a new one there.

I've measured and it appears that I need 400cm of pipe to do the job.

Does anyone have any tips for bending Kunifer?

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emjaybee said:
How come there's no veggie-proof rubber pipe?

:confused:
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There is stuff out there but you struggle to get it in 8mm ID and 6mm ID, I know of a few on here that have swapped from metal to rubber but don't use vegetable oil which is where the problems arise. Over time the veg hardens the rubber and I've seen cracks appear in the outside walls and fuel weeping from them. I'll see if I can snap some pics up that I've seen on vegetableoildiesel.co.uk
I want something that's going to last and been doing a lot of research the past few days, there's a lot of people recommend copper but a hell of a lot more condemning it.

Not only does copper react with Petrol of which I sometimes add a drop to my tank for thinning but it also "work hardens" which means it's likely to fracture when under stress usually at the clamping points on the chassis.

I've been advised a better material to use is Nickel Copper or Kunifer as it's sold as. It's meant to be just as malleable as copper but doesn't react with anything and also a bit stronger than bog standard copper. It looks quite pricey though :eek:

I'm going to need 4m of 8mm and 4m of 6mm but they only seem to sell it in 2.5m or 7.5m lengths and no 5m lengths :doh I asked one place why and they said it was because they couldn't sell the offcut because it comes on 7.5m reels, I pointed out to him the simple mathematics and the fact that he had listings for 2.5m lengths on his eBay shop at which point he said he had to go and put the phone down :lol he won't be getting my business.

I'd like to just take my old fuel lines to a shop, and them make me some up to the same shape as my old ones and refit but without bending them or cutting them I wouldn't be able to get them in the car :(

So it looks like I'm going to have to make them myself and borrow a flaring kit from somewhere or just buy one.
 
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Thanks for that. I had no problem getting the sizes I need for my fuel lines, but then that's only diesel in my rubber lines. I wouldn't have considered copper either, as an electrician I'm well aware of the work hardening issue. I still find it amazing that something as innocuous as vegetable oil can damage rubber where diesel won't. Maybe I should be cooking with diesel.

Best of luck bloke.

:thumbs
 
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