FT’s Patrol Project

[solarman216]

If you have used the cam belt to hold the cam pulley to undo the cam pulley bolt, then bin the belt, do not re use it, if you need to remove the pump then yes undo the nut, otherwise the pump does not need to be disturbed, on the cam shaft is a rough hexagon which is used to hold the cam shaft while undoing or tightening the bolt.

Bin the air con rad if not using it, it restricts the airflow to the engine rad, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Cheers Rick, I prefer not to disturb things if not required hence the question. :thumb2

A new cam belt is on order. Even though this one is only 2 years old, once in there I might as well change it. A couple of quid for a new belt and pulleys is nothing on a job like this.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Today I had planned to strip the engine down so that it would be ready to have the head taken off on Tuesday.

As usual, nothing ever goes to plan. The inlet manifold does not want to come off. It is held on by 7 bolts but it does not want to shift.

Rick, could you shed some light please? From what I can see it is just these 7 bolts and off course the pipes etc. However referencing the internet some documentation says that you need to remove the inlet and exhaust manifold bolts all at the same time. And the other info I found is just to remove the 7 bolts holding on the inlet manifold and off she should come.

 

[solarman216]

Yes exhaust bolts as well as inlet bolts need to com off, as many are common to both Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Great!! Thanks Rick. :thumbs

The heat shield bolts are o corroded that they are rounding off. Will be having fun today getting those off.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Made some progress today. Removed both the intake and exhaust manifolds. (Thanks Rick). Removed the turbo and removed the gusset plates that run from the engine to the gearbox. These need to come off to enable access to the oil sump nuts and bolts.

A few bolts have sheared off today so a bit of drilling and tapping is required. Instead of the nuts coming loose that hold on the inlet/exhaust on, the studs came out. I will see if I can clean the studs up and source some new nuts or if I am going to replace them completely,

The turbo seems to be in quite good shape. A little bit of play on the axle but I don’t think it is that bad. However now it is removed from the truck I will have it overhauled anyway. :thumb2

The engine bay is getting less cluttered.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Removed the cylinder head today.

The cylinder sleeves seem to be in good condition with no scoring or other marks.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

The valves appear to be seating properly with no immediately noticeable defects.
Difficult to predict if the hydraulic valve lifters are working as intended.

The next plan is to sent the head off to have the glow plugs removed. In the meantime I will replace the piston rings.

Midland turbo’s is coming to collect the turbo to be overhauled. The turbine is turning smoothly but now it is out it may as well be serviced.

As is clear in the photo, the valves in cylinder #1 are slightly drier then the other cylinders. This could either be due to the piston rings letting oil past. However, cylinder #1 was the only cylinder I have not tested for compression. All the other cylinders had a dry and wet compression test. So I am expecting to see some more oil in the other cylinders.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Pulled the intake valve out of cylinder #1 and it had a lot of deposits on it. (Forgot to take a photo) To check if it was the same on the other inlet valves I pulled valve from cylinder #2 and it is very similar.

So it looks like the valve stem seals are worn.

 

[solarman216]

If your stem seals are bad at that mileage then possibly it has been overheated, be interesting to see the state of the pistons and rings when out, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Hopefully I get the pistons out tomorrow.

I am wondering if I have an oil leak somewhere. As the pipes to and from the intercooler are covered in black oil. The turbo is nice and dry so at the moment I am drawing a blank.

When I sent the head off to have the glow plugs removed I will also ask them how much it would cost to clean the inlet ports.

 

[Banshee]

Starting this one from post #647 in a sec with a brew :beer:

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Having done some more research tonight, it appears that the carbon buildup is not caused by leaking valve stem seals. What causes it is a combination of an EGR valve, sending some exhaust gasses (and soot) back into the air inlet manifold and a breather. The breather is fitted to the rocker cover and the fumes (including some oil) are piped back to the inlet manifold. Now you have the perfect mix of soot (EGR) and oil (breather) to make a nice sludge in the intake manifold.

On my engine the breather is piped into the air inlet before it goes through the intercooler, hence the oil film in the intercooler and its components.

The solution would be to either blank off the EGR valve or reroute the breather outlet. Blanking the EGR valve increases emissions as the cylinder temperature goes up and NOx gasses are produced. Rerouting the breather outlet results in the car dripping oil, unless it is routed back to the sump.

 

[solarman216]

Ah yes just so, first thing I did with mine was blank the EGR rubbish, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Blanking the EGR off was already on the the to-do-list. After seeing the mess it creates it has just risen to the top.

Now I just need to clean the inlet ports of all the sludge.

Rick, what make of engine degreaser do you use? It seems that whatever you used got your head nice and clean.

 

[solarman216]

Kerosene as it does the job and is dirt cheap, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Cheers Rick.

Just dropped the head off at a specialist to have the glow plugs removed. If the come out easily it would only be an hours wage at £47.50. In case they break and have to be drilled out then it is £47.50 per glow plug.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

The day started off fine with DPD finally delivering the parts I ordered. They have been trying to deliver them since Tuesday but according to them, nobody was at home to take delivery. Even though we were both at home. Asked the driver today why he didn’t deliver yesterday (same driver). He said that his sat nav took him to another house (on the same street) and he just didn’t have the time to find the correct house. The delivery address was correct and the driver has been to our house last week!!

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Unfortunately that is were the good news ended. Removed the first piston from the engine and measured the rings. The new rings are slightly bigger but as the engine is losing compression this was to be expected. Removed the old piston rings, cleaned the piston and the grooves that the rings sit in. Installed the new piston rings and the top ring was very tight in its groove. Even with the piston ring compressor it could not be compressed enough to get it flush with the piston ready for installation. Because the top ring wouldn’t go any further the rest of the rings were also sitting proud. No chance in hell to get the piston back into the cylinder.

Compared the new and old piston rings and it is clear that the old piston ring is slightly tapered whilst the new one is just a rectangle. The groove that the ring sits in is also slightly tapered and as a result the ring will not sit on the bottom of the groove. Which in turn causes it to sit slightly proud. The search is now on to find some piston rings that fit, which is easier said than done.

 

[solarman216]

That is not good news, I have checked my manual and there is no mention of the top ring being tapered, indeed the pic showing how to measure the side clearance shows it being square, did you gap your old rings what did you get? and also the new, was there much difference, top ring gap is max .0118 and 2nd is max .0209 side clearance is top max .0037 2nd is max .0029, to do the gap use the piston to square the ring in the bore, let me know what you get, Rick