Accelerator Pedal - Code 43 HELP!

[clivvy]

Hi Timbo, I know what you mean, spent all day today on it.

ok, to answer some questions!

Throttle voltages at idle, 0.42+- on the consult, about the same on the meter. Same wether engine on or off on consult, goes up to 4.10 if you press right down, I cant achieve 4.5v.

Brake switch - two pins.

Today I confirmed continuity on all wires back to ecu using my lamp test. so thats all six on the throttle sensor, both on the accelerator switch and both on the brakes.

I tried to test ground in the engine bay, may have done it wrong, I got 0.8 when holding meter to ground, and another point in the engine bay. I have cleaned up the two smaller grounds on the block, and the larger on that goes from the engine to the inner wing + the smaller one next to that, looks like I need to re test these based on what you say.

I hooked up the consult again this afternoon, I cleared the fault code and it hasnt returned, although I havent taken the car for a drive due to most of the dash being out. I have sort of taken it out on the street and back again, no problems whereas last week just blipping the pedal brought the MiL on and the fault code 43.

I have checked all the wires under the dash that I can see, all the connections etc, every thing looks A1. Cant see any water leaks in there, any snagged wires, nothing.

I printed the diagnosis sheet for the pedal from the manual, and worked through that, now, if I have done it right, I have indicated a problem with the accelerator position sensor plug, the small grey one. I get voltage on the pins, but only 4, not 4.5. oddly, I forgot to plug this back in, started the car, and pressing the pedal still got me revs...?

anyway, I sort of gave up as the light went dim, I removed the dash clocks and identified some blown bulbs etc so I am going to at least sort them out!!

seems I need to get the car moving now, to see if the problem returns, but Iwould really have liked to have identified the problem. Either I have an issue with the throttle assembly on the pedal, or I have some issues between that, and the ecm, but as far as I can tell, I have eliminated that with the bulb test...

 

[maverick218]

throttle or no throttle

Have you had any luck in finding throttle fault, mine is completly unresponsive now.

 

[clivvy]

Have you had any luck in finding throttle fault, mine is completly unresponsive now.

I havent found the fault mate, but my throttle has coem back, MIL has gone out and I have revs. Now, this is AFTER taking most of the dash apart and checking all wires, unplugging relays, plugs etc, everything has been unplugged. I also cleaned the ground wires in the engine bay, which I feel may have helped as its the only significant thing I have done so far.

What you should do is clean the two small ground wires on the engine block-these are the pedal ground!! first job, they are tiny and if you follow them, they go back into the loom and off towards the cabin. clean them and the block, then clean the larger two ground wires, one goes from block to inner wing, and the other is next to it I think. Do that then try the car see if it helps. If not, unplug the battery for at least an hour - clear the ecu (which is the other thing I did) and then while you are at it, confirm continuity/voltage. I confirmed this which of course has left it more of a mistery but I cant fully test mine yet a I ran out of tax. Was ok on and off the driveway, but before it would drive for miles then give up permanently.

sorry I dont have anythign more concrete for you. Oh, just so you know, I got a second user pedal from a scrapper-same problem. Also, when I checked the throttle plug on the pedal, i got odd voltage results, which again, could have been the ground....

 

[clivvy]

erm...ok

so I got my new dash bulbs today, and replaced all the broken ones in the dash and around the console (ashtray etc), put all the dash together again.

started the car ok, first press of the pedal MiL came on, no response from throttle. I kept pushing and the Mil went out, and throttle response returned, so I let it idle since the car hasnt been used now for weeks.

I put some load on the engine-all electrics on, was a little bit uneven idling but seemed to level out.

Took it for a VERY short drive up the track behind our house-very rough, and it was ok, but hardly any effort on the car anyway. Couldnt take for a proper test drive as my TAX disc hasnt arrived. The car was ok, but I am still sceptical because of the MiL coming on, and the fact that the last test drive I did after changing the pedal it drove about 3 mile before the MiL came on!

getting a bit cheesed off now because I cant find the fault. The only significant things I have done, are swap the pedal, test the wires, cleaned the ground wires and surfaces and had all the dash apart. One thing I did notice, probably nowt, was that at idle, when I pressed and HELD the brake on, it started to idle uneven again, hard to describe, and again, that seemed to settle down, I assume thats vaccum or something??

ok, so I understand I need a proper test drive, but can anyone advise me any furthur? TBH, I am still not convinced I have confirmed that the pedals are ok.

 

[clivvy]

ok, update. I have a second thread concerning ground wires, but I thought I would just update here as well for reference.

so today I finished sorting a few things. I have pulled out the entire loom thta runs from the plugs in the engine back back to the gearbox. I removed the old positive cable that I replaced a few years ago and tidied the loom after checking all wires were ok, they were. I then re ran it, and sorted each ground point that came from it by using anti vibration washers and a good sanding down (then grease up).

I unplugged most plugs I could see, and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner. I noted the two plugs near the power steering fluid bottle (big oblong plugs) were very dirty, and the one were the wire turns back into the plug, was full of white gunk? So I gave that a good spray and wipe.

I refitted the starter motor connector but noted that it doesn't actually stay in place (i had previously fixed it down with some gun gum) so that's something I need to look at but it does start fine.

I cleaned both battery terminals, and cleaned both battery clamps. I fitted anti vibration washers to the smaller wire that fits onto the positive, and I re drilled the hole for the negative ground due to the bolt snapping and also used anti vibration washers here, and on the other few earth wires on the inner wing (on one i noted it was hardly making a connection-only a couple of "marks" to indicate where it was)

running ecutalk revealed two issues. one was the pedal, and the other was coolant temp sensor. I noticed that my coolant bottle was empty-odd since I have been driving and there are no leaks. Turns out I had not fitted one of the loom plugs properly, re fitting cleared the code and returned my dash to normal (the glow relay light was still lit dimly whilst engine running), re checked ecu talk, all fault codes clear and everything appears to be running normally, if not slightly better.

The car "felt" better, if that makes sense? Even though its not been run properly now for weeks, and it is freezing where we are (windows still frosted thick at 3pm), it appeared to be idling nicely and operating correctly. I topped up the coolant with neat mixture so hopefully that will mix up ok and chucked in a full bottle of injector cleaner. No smoke out the back, and a short test drive (about 1.5 mile) round the rough track seemed fine (i figured bouncing about is going to reveal any abnormalities still present)

Came home for tea, and I am going to do one more bigger test run tonight.

so, fingers crossed the car is now sorted.

I still have a pedal left over, (my original) so I may take this apart to check it and clean it, but I am thinking that there isnt actually a problem with the pedal now, and the problem was actually a bad grounding issue somewhere.

we shall see!

 

[jims-terrano]

Fingers crossed for you mate.

Jim

 

[clivvy]

just got back from a much longer, proper drive. did approx 15 miles over varied terrain and speeds, all ok!!:thumb2

drove very well, felt a bit nicer, no smoke out the back, just nice and smooth and powerful. I was a little soft with it, but I will start using it everyday again and hopefully its all sorted!

 

[ronypony]

Just thought I would add my tuppence worth to see if its of any help.I had exactly the same problem with my accelerator pedal...MIL light on ...loss of power.This happened often...sometimes things would be fine for a day or two then happen again.Discovered if I 'pinged ' the pedal with my foot the problem would clear immediately..only to occur again later.Put up with pinging the pedal for a number of months...not ideal..eventually purchased a replacement pedal unit off fleabay...changed it over.. problem gone...so with me it was most definitely the pedal...and I suspect the small micro switch fitted along the length of the pedal bar was faulty/sticking...not one of the larger connectors near the top.

 

[clivvy]

cheers Rony, did you buy a used pedal, or brand new?

my issue seems to have cleared, after cleaning all the earth points, but I am still a little uneasy about it. I did get a second pedal from the breakers, but that gave the same issue (although it is currently the one I have installed)

 

[stinka]

Any more info on location of these earths for pedals ?

cheers

 

[clivvy]

Any more info on location of these earths for pedals ?

cheers

yeah, if you look drivers side engine block, near the dip stick, i believe the two earths there are for the pedal. made a difference to my pedal when i gave them a really good clean when i was diagnosing my problem-but didnt fix the issue, i ended up buying two pedals, the second being the one that has been ok. never refitted the old ones to test/confirm....