Still have accelerator pedal issues!!

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You have probably done this already, but with the lights dimming when the fault occurs it is pointing (as you know by now) either a short, or bad earth, have you checked the main earth strap to the engine block? Sorry if you have it`s just that i spent a lot of time on similar issues and cured it by putting an auxillary strap on even though the standard one belled out fine.
Hope you cure it soon
 
You have probably done this already, but with the lights dimming when the fault occurs it is pointing (as you know by now) either a short, or bad earth, have you checked the main earth strap to the engine block? Sorry if you have it`s just that i spent a lot of time on similar issues and cured it by putting an auxillary strap on even though the standard one belled out fine.
Hope you cure it soon

Sean, yes, BUT, I have been thinking about the auxiliary strap, maybe i will do that too, how did you do yours??
 
I thoroughly checked and cleaned my old pedal, but the issue I had with that one was, press the pedal and it engaged TURBO BOOST, it went way over board. With this pedal, things changed, I got the no revs issue. When I hooked up ECU talk, it showed the switch itself as ok-on+off with each pedal press everytime, no sticking, but it was the voltage that appeared wrong. As I pushed the pedal down, the voltage stayed low, so the code logged was TPS, as opposed to the switch, so im not so sure thats it BUT I will give it another thorough spraying with electrical cleaner asap. wish I could actually take it apart but its sealed.
:(

bear in mind that things improved greatly after cleaning ground wires in the engine bay, but the problem was not eliminated entirely. Again, after sorting out the negative battery clamp (was on upside down) and giving both clamps a good clean things improved again (general running but the TPS issue remained, only even more random between faults!!)

and just recently, after doing MORE work on the elctrical wires, thinsg improved again, except now the problem hasnt returned for the last few days. Driving has been limited, but even still, no error code but I still think its intermittent. I am driving it to work tomorrow, and you can almost guarentee that it will occur when I go to leave work for the day. If so, im videoing it.!


when you've done this work you would have disconnected the battery yes ? doesn't that do something to the ecu ? like reset it or something, so that the fault would go away until the ecu picked it up again and started telling your injection pump to do silly things ? I can see your reasoning for thinking it's not the tps but that would be my next move.

Can't find the TPS in the parts diagram ?
 
when you've done this work you would have disconnected the battery yes ? doesn't that do something to the ecu ? like reset it or something, so that the fault would go away until the ecu picked it up again and started telling your injection pump to do silly things ? I can see your reasoning for thinking it's not the tps but that would be my next move.

Can't find the TPS in the parts diagram ?

yes, I disconnected battery, and I htink it takes over night to clear the codes but i did this manually anyway. I am in the process of buying yet another pedal from MakeitFit and some other cables and wires etc

I am going to, for what its worth, check my glow plug relay and earth straps again!
 
yes, I disconnected battery, and I htink it takes over night to clear the codes but i did this manually anyway. I am in the process of buying yet another pedal from MakeitFit and some other cables and wires etc

I am going to, for what its worth, check my glow plug relay and earth straps again!

infact, im going to do another test when i get home, and I will video it to show you. Im going to get straight in the car, start it, and make to start off, see if the MiL appears, ill video this. Maybe somebody will spot soemthing. I will also video the engine bay connectors and straps, again, maybe someone will spot something amiss.

You know by the coolant bottle, there are two plugs on a metal bracket. One goes off to the loom, the other has an end that loops back to itself? Whats them? I ask, because mine are CAKED in white creamy stuff. I did try to clean them a short while back but wasnt sure if there was any point. If they are anything important, ill clean them properly.
 
I think the white stuff is probably protective grease, either that or the previous owner really liked that part of the engine bay :eek:
 
can you list all the parts you have changed trying to rid yourself of this problem?
 
well, for this particular issue, I have replaced:

accelerator pedal (for used one)


thats it. Everything else has been cleaning/sorting of the electrical wires.
 
if BOTH pedals are the same, maybe try another,

can't have 3 with the same fault, if it is the same, in my view its not going to be the pedal.
 
You could have a hundred faulty 2nd hand pedals, only a new or tested and guaranteed one will be, well, tested and guaranteed :nenau
Having said that I'm sure Pete's one will be absolutely fine but won't cure the problem, cause I'm never right about anything.

Anybody been able find the part number for a new tps or pedal ?
 
You could have a hundred faulty 2nd hand pedals, only a new or tested and guaranteed one will be, well, tested and guaranteed :nenau
Having said that I'm sure Pete's one will be absolutely fine but won't cure the problem, cause I'm never right about anything.

Anybody been able find the part number for a new tps or pedal ?

yup, its a risk buying yet another pedal, but its always good to have spares handy, and I suppose if the problem is still there after fitting this pedal, then I can be reasonably sure its not the pedal, and start looking deeper into the engine bay.

I do wonder about the grounding still, and I wonder if the alternator could have any bearing on things?
 
dear diary.

went to start car today. made a funny noise, but started. Pressed the pedal and the MiL came on. Outside temp was -2. Stopped engine, restarted, fault cleared.
 
With regard to the lights dimming, getting brighter, have you checked the voltage regulator, ie checked the voltage to the battery isn't going excessively high with revs,i.e. above 15.V, I'm not sure if the R20 manual applies to your car but its mentioned in there.
Also i would think that it must be pretty straight forward to test the pedal i.e. volts out or Resistance.

If your accelerator set up is the same as in the R20 there is a test procedure for the accelerator / throttle position in the manual too.
 
With regard to the lights dimming, getting brighter, have you checked the voltage regulator, ie checked the voltage to the battery isn't going excessively high with revs,i.e. above 15.V, I'm not sure if the R20 manual applies to your car but its mentioned in there.
Also i would think that it must be pretty straight forward to test the pedal i.e. volts out or Resistance.

If your accelerator set up is the same as in the R20 there is a test procedure for the accelerator / throttle position in the manual too.

no, not sure about the voltage regulator tbh, wheres that? I have tested the pedal, using volts and a continuity bulb, weird thing is, it all appears ok!?! But then I suppose due to therandomness of the issue, it makes sense. For example, last night tried the car, pedal trouble, tried it just now, no problem. Last night was -2, today is 6 degrees. Not sure if that has any bearing at all. So far, it hasnt been consistent with weather, but im making notes.
 
found this in the r20 manual on page EC371, there is alot of checks for the accelerater in the EC section from page 365 onwards, this is only relevant if its the same kit as the R20 but im sure somebody will know if they are the same.

Edit: The regulator is normally part of the alternator.
 

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ah yes, I found the same in my manual, and worked through something like 8 pages of tests!!

assuming I did them right, everything checked out :(

so maybe i checked them wrong, OR, because the problem isnt constant, the tests dont reveal anything.
 

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