Accelerator Pedal - Code 43 HELP!

[Timbo_1975]

Yes!

 

[clivvy]

Yes!

awesome, I learned something!!!

originally, those two wires WERENT connected to the engine block, they were connected to the inner wing near the battery, i think along side the larger earth wire. I will see if a good clean work, and maybe even move the wires else where...

 

[Timbo_1975]

If you are at uncertain, run a new earth cable direct to battery -ve from ECU grounds once you have carefully identified them,...

 

[clivvy]

If you are at uncertain, run a new earth cable direct to battery -ve from ECU grounds once you have carefully identified them,...

I gotcha, i will try work it out. As far as I could see, it was all coloured wires, but I probably wasnt looking properly as I didnt consider the ecu would be earthed!!

 

[clivvy]

arrgghh....

ok, didnt have much time to do my testing, so here is what I found:

Brake switch I get 12.02 on the red wire, nothing on green

The ECU, cant see any seperate ground wire

Loom going in

the end

I wiggled all the wires whilst engine running, made no difference. it revved normally for a short while then gave up (just voltage, no revs).

I havent removed the loom from the ECU yet, but I have unplugged the battery because I figure either way I should reset the ECU as this has never been done.

I rechecked the wires to the TPS, pins 4/5 on the brown plug give 12.0v, the rest nothing or 0.1......

I checked the ground wires in the engine bay, all appear ok, not sure how to test those with a meter though?!

Engine still idling poorly, not revving and being a bitch. I dont understand how this has come on. is it possible, that I have a second dodgy pedal, and its that which is the crux of the problem? I just cant see any shorts in any wires, as in no nicks, no bends, nothing stuck and nothing disturbed.

anything I should go out and do now whilst the battery is unplugged? Should I unplug the wires from the ecu and prod them with my meter?? not sure what results i will get with battery disconnected....

 

[rayf3262]

Think I may have found the root of some possible confusion for you...
I have the same Zexel ECU as yours on the bench.
The TD27 diagrams in the manual do not correlate with this Zexel unit, I suspect the manual diagram on page EC-302 may relate to a Bosch ECU as the pin numbering scheme is appears different from the Zexel unit! Timbo?

The good news is that the ZD30 diagram on page EC-16 does in fact relate to Zexel pin numbering, so most of the principal sensor inputs should be the same as yours.
Eg. the stop signal will most likely go to pin 17 on your ecu, as it does on the ZD30 diagram and not pin 405 as shown for the TD27.

In ECUtalk you should be able to "see" the brake switch signal in either of the digital bit registers, DBR2B? or DBR2C?, these are the last two options in the list. These are displayed as a 0~255 value, so from the static value one of them should change by one bit when the brake pedal is moved from rest.

------------------------------
The Red/Blue wire should have 12v on it while the IGN. is on.
The Green/yellow wire should switch to 12v when the pedal is moved from rest and return to zero(ish) when the pedal is at rest.

Here's a pic of what your ecu connector should look like with the cover removed:

EDIT: the throttle assembly unit has it's own ground connection on pin 51 (should be Red/White.)

 

[clivvy]

thanks for this Ray, I will take another look tomorrow. ECU will be reset tomorrow (I have unplugged the battery in preperation for unplugging the ECU) and I will work through the things you mention.

Am I right in thinking that, after I unplug the wires from the ECU, plug the battery BACK IN, then test the connections using my multi meter?

 

[rayf3262]

thanks for this Ray, I will take another look tomorrow. ECU will be reset tomorrow (I have unplugged the battery in preperation for unplugging the ECU) and I will work through the things you mention.

Am I right in thinking that, after I unplug the wires from the ECU, plug the battery BACK IN, then test the connections using my multi meter?

Ideally you want to check that the connections from the brake switch and throttle assy. check out by testing for continuity between the pin on the ecu and the point on the switch etc..
If you can gain access to the ecu connections by removing the cover over the connector, that will suffice, if not you will have to pull the plug from the ecu and test.

You can do all this with the battery still disconnected.
It will help a lot if make yourself a run out sheet that shows ecu pin number to switch tps etc.. that way you can do a structured test.

 

[Timbo_1975]

Can I suggest that for continuity checks on the wiring PLEASE DISCONNECT the multiplug from the ecu. Leave the battery also disconnected.

Last thing we want is the ecu damaged.

If you can rig up a test lamp then all the better. Multimeters only pass afew mA and that will not show up a poor connection.

 

[clivvy]

Can I suggest that for continuity checks on the wiring PLEASE DISCONNECT the multiplug from the ecu. Leave the battery also disconnected.

Last thing we want is the ecu damaged.

If you can rig up a test lamp then all the better. Multimeters only pass afew mA and that will not show up a poor connection.

ok Timbo I will try. I am a bit thick especially when it comes to electronics, now do I setup the test lamp? I do have a little red LED I use for diagnosing my Mazda, would that be suitable? I assume its just something to indicate a connection all the way through? I am just unsure how to connect the led/lamp.

For example, I want to test the brakes. So, going by Rays diagram, I would connect my led to pin 17 on the ecu wiring, but, there are two legs to the LED, so do I push both into the same pin?

sorry, I really want to do this, but I just dont know electronics at this level! If I do blow up the ecu, well, cant be any worse than I am now, cars not going any where!!

 

[geoffdown]

ok Timbo I will try. I am a bit thick especially when it comes to electronics, now do I setup the test lamp? I do have a little red LED I use for diagnosing my Mazda, would that be suitable? I assume its just something to indicate a connection all the way through? I am just unsure how to connect the led/lamp.

For example, I want to test the brakes. So, going by Rays diagram, I would connect my led to pin 17 on the ecu wiring, but, there are two legs to the LED, so do I push both into the same pin?

sorry, I really want to do this, but I just dont know electronics at this level! If I do blow up the ecu, well, cant be any worse than I am now, cars not going any where!!

I think timbos test really needs a fillament bulb as the led won't draw enough current if pin 17 was showing voltage then with the 5w bulb connect 1wire to this and the other 2an earth to test the 12v supply hope this helps

 

[clivvy]

I think timbos test really needs a fillament bulb as the led won't draw enough current if pin 17 was showing voltage then with the 5w bulb connect 1wire to this and the other 2an earth to test the 12v supply hope this helps

Cheers Geoff, I again, am not sure what you mean! To Me, a filament bulb is like a car bulb. So, I use that plus wires coming off the connections to earth and pin? I think I understand the process and what I am trying to achieve, just not so clued up on the basic details, i am sure I will work it out though!!

thanks so much so far for all the help and patience...

 

[geoffdown]

Cheers Geoff, I again, am not sure what you mean! To Me, a filament bulb is like a car bulb. So, I use that plus wires coming off the connections to earth and pin? I think I understand the process and what I am trying to achieve, just not so clued up on the basic details, i am sure I will work it out though!!

thanks so much so far for all the help and patience...

Yes that's the type of bulb bout a 5w one:thumbs

 

[Timbo_1975]

+ve battery ------> <---wire to test---> <----bulb----> -ve battery.

A 9v pp3 will suffice with a 3-5w 12v bulb.

 

[clivvy]

+ve battery ------> <---wire to test---> <----bulb----> -ve battery.

A 9v pp3 will suffice with a 3-5w 12v bulb.

sorry Timbo....im lost now!!

made the mistake of looking up some guides on the net, and they all seem to use circuit tester with the battery plugged in. So now, I dont understand hwo I wire it all up based on the diagram. Do I get my 9v battery, run a wire from + to the brake switch (red wire) then run a wire from pin 17 at the ecu end to a bulb and a final wire from the bulb back to - on the battery?

 

[rayf3262]

sorry Timbo....im lost now!!

made the mistake of looking up some guides on the net, and they all seem to use circuit tester with the battery plugged in. So now, I dont understand hwo I wire it all up based on the diagram. Do I get my 9v battery, run a wire from + to the brake switch (red wire) then run a wire from pin 17 at the ecu end to a bulb and a final wire from the bulb back to - on the battery?

This is what Timbo means, look at the attached pdf.
It's just a simple circuit tester, use in exactly the same way as your multi-meter.
Your test meter passes very little current through the circuit under test, so may not be a reliable indicator of good continuity under operating conditions. The lamp & battery approach passes more current through the wire and connectors under test and is more likely to reveal a bad connection.

 

[clivvy]

cheers Ray, thats pretty much the diagram I drew myself during lunch, so I understand!! Thanks very much, going to do this tonight when I get home, just hope i find the problem....

 

[clivvy]

ok, rigged up a test lamp. 9V battery and car wire/bulb holder and bulb. tested working, all ok. checked my ECU loom, brake wire definately not on pin17, pin 17 is blank. If you refer to Rays diagram, all the grey blocks/pins are empty. I struggled to find the correct wire, the one I did find that I thought was the right one (red/black stripe) did nothing. I did however manage to trace the other brake wire (green/yellow)and this didnt light the bulb, but it did cause a relay to click somewhere....??

I then attempted to verify I was doing this right, but was unable to trace any wires of relevance. So, I have either confirmed I have no continuity, or I have achieved nothing!

 

[clivvy]

right, more work and progress this morning. gail blowing outside.

anyway, rigged up a better system for my test lamp, and went about testing the accelerator pedal connections. Top two plugs, all wires (6 of them) lit the bulb when I found the corresponding connection on the ECU. ACP Switch, again, both wires show connection (made sure I tested both from the plug AND from the actual switch). I then tested the brake switch, this too showed connection back to the ecu.

took this video

<a href="http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w163/clivjoo/Pissing%20Accelerator%20pedal/?action=view&current=video-2011-12-03-11-34-51.mp4" target="_blank"><img src="http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w163/clivjoo/Pissing%20Accelerator%20pedal/th_video-2011-12-03-11-34-51.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" style="width: 160px;"></a>

I noted the "warm up sw" never changed. The throttle V never went very high, yet revved ok. I cleared the ecu code found (registered when I first conencted-ecu has been reset) and it didnt come back. I simply sat, revved it and held at certain RPM. noted at 2k rpm it seemed to wobble a little bit, maybe thats because it hasnt been driven for a few weeks i dont know. Allowed car to warm up, pushing pedal did not being back the code, unlike before.

I also checked the ground wires. I need to check I am doing this right, set the VM to 200 ohms, put one wire on the ground, and the other to another ground. At first, it was really erratic, but settled at 00.5 or 00.6 for each of the two smaller grounds. If I did the same, but touch a random bit of metal, i got nothing.

any ideas??

 

[Timbo_1975]

right, more work and progress this morning. gail blowing outside.

anyway, rigged up a better system for my test lamp, and went about testing the accelerator pedal connections. Top two plugs, all wires (6 of them) lit the bulb when I found the corresponding connection on the ECU. ACP Switch, again, both wires show connection (made sure I tested both from the plug AND from the actual switch). I then tested the brake switch, this too showed connection back to the ecu.

took this video

<a href="http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w163/clivjoo/Pissing%20Accelerator%20pedal/?action=view&current=video-2011-12-03-11-34-51.mp4" target="_blank"><img src="http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w163/clivjoo/Pissing%20Accelerator%20pedal/th_video-2011-12-03-11-34-51.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" style="width: 160px;"></a>

I noted the "warm up sw" never changed. The throttle V never went very high, yet revved ok. I cleared the ecu code found (registered when I first conencted-ecu has been reset) and it didnt come back. I simply sat, revved it and held at certain RPM. noted at 2k rpm it seemed to wobble a little bit, maybe thats because it hasnt been driven for a few weeks i dont know. Allowed car to warm up, pushing pedal did not being back the code, unlike before.

I also checked the ground wires. I need to check I am doing this right, set the VM to 200 ohms, put one wire on the ground, and the other to another ground. At first, it was really erratic, but settled at 00.5 or 00.6 for each of the two smaller grounds. If I did the same, but touch a random bit of metal, i got nothing.

any ideas??

Hmm we dont seem to be getting any closer to identifying the problem!

Ground test - best if there is load on the system. Reconnect the ECU, reconnect the battery and identify the relevant ground wires on the multiplug with one test lead. Extend the other to the battery -ve make a good connection with a croc clip or similar. Set DVM to the DC and start the engine.

Probe the ground connections at the ecu plug. Want to see less than 0.5v on the DVM. If alot higher you really need an additional ground soldered in back to battery.

Also check the power feeds to the ecu too. Wants to be NBV less ~0.5v . (at least 13v engine running).

Have a good look at the ecu pins with the plug out for corrossion or damage also. A small smear of electric grease wouldnt hurt.

What throttle voltages are you getting at idle and WOT on consult ?? Is it different engine running to engine off ?

Brake switch sounds like it is wired through a relay although wiring diagram would suggest not, how many pins are on the brake switch on pedal?