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one principal reason is that the pump contains its own computer and other significant electronic parts. In normal operation the temperature of the diesel supply from the tank keeps the pump and electronic parts within acceptable limits. The tendancy to pre heat veg can raise the operating...

SCI RX/TX are are the Serial Consult Interface connections. This connector WILL work with Consult 1, but will NOT work with OBD.

Glanrichbex found an alternative solution to the resistor module. http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17930&highlight=controller

Here's a step by step guide posted by another member a while back... REPAIRING SENSORS (1.1ohms to 1.3 ohms off the top of my head) The sensor is a problem on T2 See below REPAIRING SENSORS your old sensor can easily be repaired the sensor very rarely goes wrong its the wiring that connects...

The auto transmission fitted to the European built Terrano was the Jatco RE4R01A. Possibly the same or similar unit was fitted to the Patrol too. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jatco_4R01_transmission http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/RE4R01A.pdf

There's a decent overview of heater matrix swap here: http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/downloads/workshop/wk20.pdf

No, the ZD30 as found in the Terrano is not common rail, although I believe there are CR variants of the ZD30 engine in other vehicles. The injection method though differs from the 2.7L. On the ZD30 the fuel is injected much later in the compression stroke and at higher pressure DIRECTLY into...

Also worth noting is that unlike the 2.7 indirect injection the ZD30 is direct injection, so there will be a bit more "diesel clatter" esp. from cold.

looking good, but how do you manage to find all those empty bottles?:sly

yes the hazard lights are controlled by this unit. Along with: Central locking & remote. Theft alarm Interior lights (as you know) Rear window demister Warning chimes There is a diagnostic procedure for this 'box', the details are in the EL section of the manual page ~183. It can all checked...

Could be a wiring or connector fault, worth checking before committing to an alternator swap. Check for continuity from the battery -ve to the alternator frame. Then check for continuity from the battery +ve to the larger of the cables on the back of the alternator. You will likely have to...

you might try this: http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=183238&postcount=16

I think the delay you are seeing is due the battery voltage settling from ~13.8V when being charged to the normal circa 12 odd volts in its quiescent state. I would guess the "relay" is designed to switch at or around 13V.

There is a download that should help... here:http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/downloads/workshop/wk20.pdf

Gently clean it up by hand with a file(s) and emery. Then use Loctite 601 to retain the bearing on the shaft.

Here is the section brake light circuit you need to fault find:

As LF said the interior light is on a pretty long time out. They will only switch of immediately if you either lock or start the vehicle.

there are two switches for the brake light, one tells the ecu you have your foot on the brake and the other operates the brake light in a conventional manner. See page EL-48.

This may help, you can see the exhaust downpipe at 10 o clock...

Switch on the air con. That will give you idle+100 rpm.