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Thats propably the way foward:thumb2

They are non reprogramable, so the answer is no, you would need an epron change if any one does it? to achieve your goal

Bit of a mystery where the water is coming from but there is a plug in the bottom of the bell housing you can remove by unscrewing to drain it if there is any in there, you could leave it out for a time to dry it out and see if it persists.

On the SWB the pipe will come out ok, without the need to remove any extras, did mine not long back. Seem to remember the need to remove the cross member on the LWB I had. £30 is cheap eboy

You only need to block the pipe to the EGR valve to stop it from opening as in workshop download. You shouldn’t need to rip it to bits if its closed.

Not 100% on the operation but I would imagine when ticking over it would be closed and EGR fully open you should see it open when revving the engine there are 3 stages of EGR determined by the ECU for low engine speed low power requirements etc. It could be that it is late in opening when...

That is the throttle control valve that works in conjunction with the EGR valve to alter the intake air pressure.

Is it still getting the MIL on?

I would get them to change the gearbox oil, transfer box oil and as zip says axle oils making sure they use LSD oil in the rear axle. Then you know its been done. If you don’t ask for it to be done they may only check the levels.

I aim to please :augie

Yes FIX THE BLOODY IGNITION SWITCH

I have air con and mine is in the foot well

To me it looks like a hole to view timing marks on the flywheel, I wouldn’t go putting oil in there or your clutch will slip:augie

I was just quoting what I had been told by our area MF service manger who said that the red diesel in the country does not meet the requirements of the engine manufacturer in our case Perkins and it is becoming a real issue with common rail engines because the fuel is not only dirty (for the...

Heating oil is also less refined than red diesel and has a lower cetane rating, likewise modern derv has a highyer cetane number than red diesel, contrary to belief red diesel is not Derv dyed red, in actual fact red diesel dose not meet the speck for modern Agricultural machinery as it stands...

Try this one. http://www.sferamydlo.com.pl/Zbyszek/Nissan/R20/fwd.pdf

Get you oil changed and on the mark, before you look any further:thumbs

The pump is to primarily create a vacuum for the brake servo, and will require no bleeding. It wouldn’t hurt to give it a very small squirt of engine oil with an oilcan before fitting, just to lubricate on the initial start up. Hope this helps Dave

That’s the vacuum pump on the back, should be still straight forward just the extra pipe to connect up.

Yes, all you need to do is remove the lower slider bolt and tip up calliper, remove the pads, press the pistons back, fit new pads drop calliper fit bolt and away you go. Make sure the sliders are good and free as well.