Codes of DOOM!

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makeitfit

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2008
Messages
15,112
Hi guys I'm in need of help(leave it!) with my chuffing engine codes:eek:
I'm getting 0047 Crank position sensor
and 00e3 NATS malfunction!
I've tried changing the sensor and it didn't help, and it came off a car with no faults. Checked the pin 1 to 2 thing and got 1600 ohms! Higher than in the book but is this really the problem. Checked the old one and that was 1550ohms!
When driving it seems sluggish until the turbo comes in when things do get better but not what it should be:eek:
At about 1800 - 2000 rpm if I drop a gear to overtake say, it'll just sit there as if not enough fuel there for acceleration. Then there will be a puff/cloud of white smoke and eventualy the turbo comes in and off we go:rolleyes:
When the CPS is unplugged the engine still runs, so what is it that tells the pump to squirt more deisel down the slots?

TOOLBOX calling TOOLBOX help, anyone got any ideas as it's causing me great embarrasment!:augie
 
Have you checked continuity from the Crank Position Sensor to the ECU - details in Manual on which pins etc.
 
Good point, no I haven't but will:cool:
We had 2 computers on it the other night, one on the ECU and one on the CPS and then the Maf etc.all seemed OK but there was the odd glitch where the ECU seemed to drop out, or one of the computers was shut out , if you see what I mean!
Have you got the PIN link per chance old buddy old mate:D
 
Update

Right then it aint a continuity problem:doh
I was asking the computer dude again what's next and he thinks the NATS is trying to immobilise the car!
He says as he had one scanner on the ECU plug in bit AND another laptop on various sensors, the only logical thing is the NATS!
So can I isolate the NATS thing and where is it? What triggers it?
I've got an iffy ignition switch but cant see how to change that at the mo?
Any ideas guys, it's killing me now:eek:
 
how long ago did i tell you to change the ignition switch.:doh


hmmm

try it with just the main battery lead going to the starter motor
i think you have 2 other little ones take them off and try it
 
Right, firstly, the Immobilizer will not immobilize with the engine running. Simple as that. If it starts, then it will continue to run NATS or not.

Sounds like there is an issue with the pick up coil, or its wiring, or a duff transponder in the key you are using, although you dont mention any starting problems. Clear the codes, and see which return.

It does sound like there is an issue with the CPS and/or its wiring, so check the wires' continuity without the CPS AND then resistance with the CPS in circuit at the ECU multiplug. It is not unheard of for the CPS to go out of spec resistance wise and/or open circuit when hot. For the cost of them, I would replace it as a matter of course.

Lastly, have you checked and cleaned (if present) the gauze filter in the top of the inj pump banjo?? A blocked gauze often gives the symptoms you are experiencing.

Lastly, have you looked at the MAF output voltage with the truck running, and have you checked the inlet hose between MAF and turbo for splits/air leaks??

I have a feeling your troubles are not ECU related...
 
Hi Timbo, ah the voice of experiance:thumb2
I've got no filter in the banjo, checked that.
The Maf had steadily rising voltage with revs when we checked it last week, but I cant remember the figures.
The CPS was 140 squid new so I did I'm afraid buy a s/h one that was working on the car it came off:augie The resistance across pin 1-2 was 1500 ohms though, could that be it?
I'll go and check the pipes right now:thumbs
I dont understand this bit "Sounds like there is an issue with the pick up coil, or its wiring, or a duff transponder in the key you are using, although you dont mention any starting problems."
Cleared codes and got the same again, 0047 CPS
and another 00e3:augie which the scanner said was NATS malfunction:augie
 
I'm getting a message from beyond the grave here....something about, yes thank you Sam, an ignition switch, does that make sense?

love
Derek Acorah.:cool:
 
the switch is ducked and goosed.


fix that first and the starter if you like






but he wont listen
 
can i


the switch is like mine but worse it turns without the normal clicking and stuff he can probaly even take the key out while its running

its dead

the starter is possibly linked to that constant turning the key to make it fire up

not once or twice 20-30 times

how much is a switch - and he will have to change it in the end
 

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