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Had probs with mine being a little slow turning over & the one night when I needed it to start it wouldn't even trying to jump start off the son's car was no go:doh ruled as either battery or starter went for the easy thing to change first the battery & first flick of the key it started up straight away & faster than it had ever before:D
 
Had probs with mine being a little slow turning over & the one night when I needed it to start it wouldn't even trying to jump start off the son's car was no go:doh ruled as either battery or starter went for the easy thing to change first the battery & first flick of the key it started up straight away & faster than it had ever before:D

Funnily enough we have another good battery to try tomorrow, it's not brand new but its a very good one. Work is giving it a good charge for me.

Will I loose radio and key fobs if i disconnect battery?

I have no co code ect ect :nenau
 
Oh apparently work have a way of not disconnecting power whilst changing a battery!?
 
Funnily enough we have another good battery to try tomorrow, it's not brand new but its a very good one. Work is giving it a good charge for me.

Will I loose radio and key fobs if i disconnect battery?

I have no co code ect ect :nenau

If it is the Nissan radio, you will be OK, key fob wise, it seems to depend, sometimes a very low battery can corrupt the ECU settings, and you will need to get it to re-learn the codes, as per the download.

Not sure if this has been covered, but the Nissan Battery clamps are a bit weird, and the wire is attached to the bottom, but the bolt that tightens, is attached to the top, and the two parts can snap apart, but look initially like everything is fine. Once you undo the clamp from the battery, you can feel that it has a loose bit. I had the problem when I first gone mine.
 
Never lost a code on the stereo from a flat battery or even taking the stereo out as i'm sure it's stored on the ECU. An older battery that's worked fine all year will often die when the temps drop both my Terrano's have had new batteries over the winter months due to just 1 cell dieing on the battery:doh
 
But I still think a buggered starter will still draw the current to dull the lights.

Personally at this point I'd replace both and have done with it.

Both yours and R1co's posts I have to say that a shorted starter will dim the lights but not make them go out altogether which was what the vid said, bad connection will be my money unless the battery is bad, Rick
 
Both yours and R1co's posts I have to say that a shorted starter will dim the lights but not make them go out altogether which was what the vid said, bad connection will be my money unless the battery is bad, Rick

if you look at the car in front you can see the light has only dimmed its still on in the reflection, the very bottom reflection, you can see the light at first i thought it was the street light reflection but it isn't
 
if you look at the car in front you can see the light has only dimmed its still on in the reflection, the very bottom reflection, you can see the light at first i thought it was the street light reflection but it isn't

if the battery and connections were good the light would be a lot brighter than that, Rick
 
well i'm sticking to my starter theory :lol

its the exact same symptoms i had and it was the starter, even down to the lights
 

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