FT’s Patrol Project

[Flying Torquewrench]

After successfully removing this I started to transfer some of the bits and bobs from the old head to the new head.

The head thermal indicator decided that it didn’t want to budge. Instead it sheared off so now I need to get hold of a replacement. Hopefully the dealer can get one.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

One the front side of the head a stud doesn’t want to move at all and the little pin to the right has also decided that it rather stays where it is.

 

[solarman216]

Cellulose Thinner I find helps with Ali/Steel stuff, used it for years most times it works a treat just soak for a while, couple of strikes with a hammer and out it comes, Rick

 

[Banshee]

Cellulose Thinner I find helps with Ali/Steel stuff, used it for years most times it works a treat just soak for a while, couple of strikes with a hammer and out it comes, Rick

You've mentioned that one before Rick!!! I'll have to write that one down as I've been recommended that by someone else at work too

Sent from my moto g 5G plus using Tapatalk

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Cheers Rick, I will go and get some.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Now some help is needed.

On removing the exhaust pipe from the exhaust outlet, 2 studs sheared off. One came out quite easily with an extractor but on the second one the extractor broke off inside the stuck stud.

The top of the stud is level with the flange so welding on a nut is not ideal. Whilst the hole goes through the flange, I can’t reach the other side with a drill bit due to the twisting design of the exhaust outlet. Any ideas which drill is best used to drill through the extractor?

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

De-glazed the cylinder bores today with the Flexhone. Does exactly as it says on the tin. A nice cross hatch pattern back on the bores.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

After that I re-ringed the pistons. Tomorrow I need to clean the cylinder bores before installing the pistons again. Then the sump can be installed and hopefully find a way to drill out my broken stud.

I also need to speak to the dealer to see if they can order a temperature transmitter. Otherwise they can be quite cheaply had on eBay.

 

[solarman216]

If you got the stud extractor out then I would use a left hand drill, they usually wind themselves out when you get near to the thread size, I sheared two of mine when I converted to the 3inch S/S system and managed it in situe, if the extractor is still there then accurately hold a nut over the stud and MIG it up, the heat will assist removeal and any stray weld to the cast will not hold, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Cheers Rick.

The extractor is still in there so welding is the only option. Unfortunately I can’t get the penetration with my MIG welder as the nuts keep shearing off. Only have a 185amp welder that doesn’t go above 150amp before tripping the breaker. Only a 13amp socket and not the required 16amp. Something that is on the very long to do list.

 

[Banshee]

Cheers Rick.

The extractor is still in there so welding is the only option. Unfortunately I can’t get the penetration with my MIG welder as the nuts keep shearing off. Only have a 185amp welder that doesn’t go above 150amp before tripping the breaker. Only a 13amp socket and not the required 16amp. Something that is on the very long to do list.

You can pop to mine if you want and use my Wolf 140X, I've recently installed a 32A Commando Socket for exactly this reason :thumb2

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Many thanks Zac for the offer but a replacement is already in the post. :thumb2

Managed to fit the pistons back in the block and get the sump back on.
Going to buy some cellulose thinner to try and remove the stud that holds the cambelt tensioner as it won’t budge. Spoke to Nissan and a new one could take months to arrive. If the thinner doesn’t work then it will get the angle grinder treatment. The head is scrap anyway so it doesn’t really matter.

 

[solarman216]

That stud will come out if you heat the block, do you have a blow torch? get it really hot , it will fall out, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Got one of these Rick. Not ideal but might just do the trick. Will give it go tomorrow. :thumb2

 

[solarman216]

Keep it well shielded and prob use a whole can of gas that size but stands a chance of getting it hot enough, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Two studs removed today. My little blow torch did the trick and only needed about 10 minutes of heat on them before they came out. :thumb2

The project is on hold for the time being till my parts arrive. I am also back at work over the weekend so I am hoping to get her back together next week.

I am searching for a good running in oil to aid the new piston rings and camshaft bed in.

So fa I have settled for the running in oil below. Any comments/recommendations before I press the trigger and buy?

Bit of a cr*p photo but is is Golden Film running in oil.
Link: https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/golden-film-running-in-oil.html

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Reading some other threads about rebuilts, I have a distinct feeling that I end up taking the pistons out again.

When I installed the piston I lubricated everything with normal engine oil but I have now read that you should be using an assembly paste which gives a lot more protection. Not ideal as it means that the sump has to come off again, which is a real bugger to get installed in the first place. However, rather be safe then sorry. There is too much money in it now to cut corners.

You live and learn.

While the sump is off again I will also replace all the nuts and bolts holding the sump on with stainless steel variants.

 

[Banshee]

Mr Torquewrench, I love your meticulous nature.

It should be a lesson to all :thumbs

Keep on mate, you've got this

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Thanks Zac!

Truth to be told, there is another reason why I need to take it apart again. At the bottom of the cylinder bores are oil jets, one in each bore. These spray oil on the bottom of the piston to aid cooling. When I flexhoned my bores I covered these over with a plastic bag to stop any grit getting into them. Whilst honing I touched 2 oil jets, which at the time seemed no big deal.

Yesterday I was reading somebody’s write up of a ZD30 rebuilt and these oil jets appeared again. It transpires that on the ZD30 there is a hole in the piston that lines up with the oil jet when the piston is BDC. The oil then goes into the piston to cool it from the inside.

My problem is that I am not sure if the RD28Ti has the same design. If it has the same design then I am not sure if I knocked the oil jets out of alignment when honing. I have been looking everywhere for an answer but so far haven’t found anything. The best way to check is just to take it all apart again.

Add the lack of assembly lube and it becomes a no brainer.

All my parts should be here next week so I am hoping that 2 or 3 days work will get it back up and running.

Initially I am planning to put the block together but leave the radiator etc off. I can then do a compression test and see what we are up too. Once the compression test is satisfactory I will install the radiator and the remaining parts.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Oh and one bit of advice. If anybody ever thinks about doing the same, just take the whole engine out. It is soo much easier to work on and you probably do a better job.

I am kicking myself that I didn’t remove the engine completely.