FT’s Patrol Project

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Running in oil arrived today from Classic oils. I didn’t know that they have a partnership with Fuzz Townshend from Car SOS.
 

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Does anybody know where you can buy shoulder screw at a reasonable price? I have found a few online at around £5 each and I need 30. :eek:

They should be M6 with a 9mm shoulder. 13mm long shoulder and 11mm long thread.

These hold the sump on.
 

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I would use a hex cap screw with a washer and the correct length spacer/sleeve, Rick
 
Your sump is very different to mine, it has 10mm ling bolts and a mastic gasket, no rubbery bits on it, are you sure they are original, not a design I would expect on sump securing, Rick
 
As far as I am aware those bolts are original. I have a thick rubber seal that the rubber grommets fit through. So I take it that they have designed it this way to stop the seal from being damaged.

It was a bit early to go to work. :D
 

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The assembly lube arrived early. Shouldn’t arrive till Thursday but our friendly postman dropped it off today. :thumb2
 

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No piston rings required on the CFM LEAP engine. :D
 

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Removed the sump again today. :doh

On the to do list was the removal of the oil jets for cleaning and removal of ghe pistons so that they could be reinstalled with assembly lube.

The oil jets are a pain in the back to get to. Cylinder 2 & 5 are easy as I could fit with my hand past the crankshaft. The other cylinders required removal of the pistons due to the crankshaft being in the way.

This is the oil jet in place.
 

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The oil jet removed. It has a little locating tab which makes installation easier.

The bolt that holds it in place has a spring and metal ball inside. With enough pressure this opens and allows oil to be fed to the oil jet.
 

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The hole in the piston lines up with the oil jet when the piston is a BDC. Oil will then enter the piston to help it cool. Hence the locating pin on the oil jet as the alignment is crucial.
 

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Not having a good day on the Patrol. :(

After doing all the work yesterday, I refitted the sump today. With the last 5 screw to go I notice something laying on the floor that should have been fitted yesterday. :mad: It meant that the sump had to come off again. :banghead
 

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Obviously a big end bearing shell is quite important. It must have fallen out when I tapped the piston into the bore. Just to make sure I checked every big end that all bearing shells were in place. Refitted the missing one on piston 3 and fitted the sump for the 3rd time. :doh

All went “well” till one of the bolts securing the sump to the block decided to shear off. It is in such a location that the steering arm will have to be removed to drill it out. However as the sump is installed with 30 bolts I hope that one missing won’t be an issue.

Planning on replacing the remaining bolts with stainless steel one. An M6 bolt with a bit of stainless steel tube to act as the shoulder.

The photo below is not the best quality as it was taken with my phone. Fortunately there is an unused bolt hole on the side off the block. If the missing bolt results in a leak then I will make a bracket that fits on the unused bolt hole.
 

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Good job it did not get kicked out of sight, could have been expensive, Rick
 
Very true. It doesn’t help that I am doing all this outside on a patch of gravel.

I always check the area when I am finished and I am not sure how I missed half a bearing shell. At least it is back in now but a bit to close for comfort.
 
Picked up the last few parts from the dealer today and waiting for the postman to bring a bag full of nuts and bolts. I can then fit all the parts to the new cylinder head before installing that. Once the head is installed I can check the camshaft clearance and order shims as required. Hopefully I have her running by the end of next week.

One little part a still need to source. Red ringed on the photo below. I have heated the head but it just doesn’t budge. To avoid damage I can’t really grab it with a rough pair of pliers. I asked the dealer if they could get one but they are on back order from Japan and it could take months.

The only solution left is to measure which thread it has and just buy a stainless steel stud or bolt and use that as a replacement.
 

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You can do the cam to valve clearances on the bench, a lot easier than on the car, Rick
 
Cheers Rick, I will give that a go.

Ordered some stainless steel torx cap head screw to replace the bolts on the sump. Also added in some stainless steel dowels to replace the dowel on the photo above.

Might have to cook the head and freeze the dowel. The dowel old and new are 5mm but the hole in the head is only 4.69mm. Might just be enough to hammer one in but as there is no oil in the head I might just stick it in the oven. :D
 
Do not forget SS bolts/screws do not have the same tensile strength of steel, Rick
 

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