Foxy Patrol ongoing...
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Barrbeast
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You should get that made into a download. Good pics and expo/QUOTE]
Cheers bud, how do you go about doing that as there's also my 3.0 glowplug one which might be handy for folk :nenau (Banshee???)
Well, maybe since it's now an option... :sly
firebobby
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You should get that made into a download. Good pics and expo
What a good idea, that would be very helpful :thumb2
Barrbeast
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Cheers guys, been looking at how I create a pdf tonight so will make up guides for the glowplugs, EGR blanking and fitting the provent (it'll be a shorter one with a list of the bits I needed) then prod Banshee to put them in the downloads. Watch this space...:thumb2
Barrbeast
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This no rear bumper thing is catching...
The Trol's rear bumper is a 3 piece, centre section and two corner sections.
Had noticed the driver's side corner section was a bit loose when I bought the Trol and after my last session at the offroad site it had been a bit worse. So I made the decision to take the corner's off at least and go from there...
Driver's side corner off - the only thing holding it on was the screws on the back of the wheel arch and only 1 of the rear points as all the rest had broken
Support bracket off
Originally planned to keep the aluminium centre step but decided to take it off too and think it looks much better without it.
Departure angle definitely improved, the towbar crossmember will hit anything before the rest of the rear
Got a double towbar step that I'll bolt behind the recovery loop which is being replaced with a nato hitch now I've seen the back of the loop
Aussie's had said the factory recovery point was nothing more than a beefed up tie down but I thought they were exaggerating
Looks good from the front...
Turn it around and it's obvious that the only thing holding the loop to the plate is the welds on the front - this is a 3 ton vehicle we've got here :doh
The recovery point hole centres are the same as a nato hitch and I know Nissan supplied the Trols in some of the Arab countries with nato hitches there as standard :thumb2
Also finished my straight through exhaust, now terminates just in front of the rear axle.
The Trol's rear bumper is a 3 piece, centre section and two corner sections.
Had noticed the driver's side corner section was a bit loose when I bought the Trol and after my last session at the offroad site it had been a bit worse. So I made the decision to take the corner's off at least and go from there...
Driver's side corner off - the only thing holding it on was the screws on the back of the wheel arch and only 1 of the rear points as all the rest had broken
Support bracket off
Originally planned to keep the aluminium centre step but decided to take it off too and think it looks much better without it.
Departure angle definitely improved, the towbar crossmember will hit anything before the rest of the rear
Got a double towbar step that I'll bolt behind the recovery loop which is being replaced with a nato hitch now I've seen the back of the loop
Aussie's had said the factory recovery point was nothing more than a beefed up tie down but I thought they were exaggerating
Looks good from the front...
Turn it around and it's obvious that the only thing holding the loop to the plate is the welds on the front - this is a 3 ton vehicle we've got here :doh
The recovery point hole centres are the same as a nato hitch and I know Nissan supplied the Trols in some of the Arab countries with nato hitches there as standard :thumb2
Also finished my straight through exhaust, now terminates just in front of the rear axle.
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Barrbeast
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33s Fitted
Got my new tyres fitted today
285/75/16 (33" in old money) Cooper Discoverer STTs. Really pleased with them. Fill the wheel arches much better than the old tyres.
I just hope the blue colouring on the letters fades a little!
Got my new tyres fitted today
285/75/16 (33" in old money) Cooper Discoverer STTs. Really pleased with them. Fill the wheel arches much better than the old tyres.
I just hope the blue colouring on the letters fades a little!
Barrbeast
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Not updated this for a while...
So I took the silencers off my zorst and made it straight through from the cat and terminating just in front of the rear axle, definitely took a few pics but buggered if I can find any others than this two ! :doh
Not that much noisier either... just a little bit growlier
So I took the silencers off my zorst and made it straight through from the cat and terminating just in front of the rear axle, definitely took a few pics but buggered if I can find any others than this two ! :doh
Not that much noisier either... just a little bit growlier
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Barrbeast
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Next up had a hub go after the August Peak District laning weekend so replaced the oem hubs with some sexy AVMs
Have to split them for fitting, really simple in function. Black section has inner and outer parts, outer part bolts to hub mounts, inner part fits around and connects with the driveshaft, when unlocked both move independently. Silver section bolts on top and turning the switch on the outside of the silver section moves the cog into the black section and connects the inner and outer part of the black section together.
Have to split them for fitting, really simple in function. Black section has inner and outer parts, outer part bolts to hub mounts, inner part fits around and connects with the driveshaft, when unlocked both move independently. Silver section bolts on top and turning the switch on the outside of the silver section moves the cog into the black section and connects the inner and outer part of the black section together.
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Barrbeast
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Fitted my custom snorkel :naughty
3.5" stainless :thumbs
Few pics of the build.
Remove nearside wheel arch lining and side light cluster to give you access to the inside of the wheel arch
Work area at the start... it got a bit messier :augie
Unclip airbox lid and lift out the way then unbolt airbox and remove. Nuts are accessed on the underside of the wheel arch and all that grips the bolts are rubber holders so you have to work the nuts back and forth in wee increments to get them off...
Remove air intake bits
Take the grinder to the airbox and remove the plastic lip
Seal the small drainhole with some silicone
Make the hole in your wing
There's a middle skin to the Trol wing and the hole in it isn't round so I had to hammer a section of pipe through it to enlarge it - in hindsight 3" pipe would have been a lot easier!
Whack some hammerite on the hole in the wing and the enlarged middle hole then some rubber edging on the wing hole. One straight silicone joiner to a short pipe section to a 90° silicone elbow and you're through the wing
Tip - I found it easiest to fit the straight joiner into the hole from the engine side first then refit the airbox before fitting the short pipe section and the elbow... and don't forget to plan ahead with the jubilee clip placement!
Remove the headlight to allow you to line up the airbox holes
Made brackets out of aluminium chequer plate bolted to snork and wing using rivnuts and silicone to seal the holes. Pipe sections fitted, brackets and snork head fitted and there's your custom stainless steel 3.5" snork :thumbs
Since then I've also ran extended axle, transfer and gearbox breathers up to the snork head.
3.5" stainless :thumbs
Few pics of the build.
Remove nearside wheel arch lining and side light cluster to give you access to the inside of the wheel arch
Work area at the start... it got a bit messier :augie
Unclip airbox lid and lift out the way then unbolt airbox and remove. Nuts are accessed on the underside of the wheel arch and all that grips the bolts are rubber holders so you have to work the nuts back and forth in wee increments to get them off...
Remove air intake bits
Take the grinder to the airbox and remove the plastic lip
Seal the small drainhole with some silicone
Make the hole in your wing
There's a middle skin to the Trol wing and the hole in it isn't round
so I had to hammer a section of pipe through it to enlarge it - in hindsight 3" pipe would have been a lot easier!Whack some hammerite on the hole in the wing and the enlarged middle hole then some rubber edging on the wing hole. One straight silicone joiner to a short pipe section to a 90° silicone elbow and you're through the wing
Tip - I found it easiest to fit the straight joiner into the hole from the engine side first then refit the airbox before fitting the short pipe section and the elbow... and don't forget to plan ahead with the jubilee clip placement!
Remove the headlight to allow you to line up the airbox holes
Made brackets out of aluminium chequer plate bolted to snork and wing using rivnuts and silicone to seal the holes. Pipe sections fitted, brackets and snork head fitted and there's your custom stainless steel 3.5" snork :thumbs
Since then I've also ran extended axle, transfer and gearbox breathers up to the snork head.
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Barrbeast
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Cheers guys :thumb2
No Martin didn't add anything - instructions specifically say not to. I've heard packing them with grease can stop them locking or unlocking properly and I would think oil might risk washing away whatever they use to lubricate them from the factory.
No Martin didn't add anything - instructions specifically say not to. I've heard packing them with grease can stop them locking or unlocking properly and I would think oil might risk washing away whatever they use to lubricate them from the factory.
Barrbeast
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All in good time bud :thumbs
Got the passenger side fitted but the bracket for the handbrake cable on mine is welded to the driver side chassis rail instead of the crossmember like it is on some other Y61s and it's blocking one of the slider brackets so I've got to get the grinder out but what with the missus moving in I haven't had the time!
Got the passenger side fitted but the bracket for the handbrake cable on mine is welded to the driver side chassis rail instead of the crossmember like it is on some other Y61s and it's blocking one of the slider brackets so I've got to get the grinder out but what with the missus moving in I haven't had the time!
