Foxy Patrol ongoing...
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Barrbeast
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Preaching to the converted! :lol
Ah ha, I have Pedders on mine
#roomforbigboots
I'd be lying if I said the thought hadn't crossed my mind :augie
I'll stick with the 32" for now but could go 33" or 34" eventually...
Barrbeast
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So that's two days running with the new springs and shocks and no ARBs...
Got to say the handling is MUCH better :thumb2
There's actually less body roll now without ARBs than there was before when I had ARBS and the ride is a lot smoother - just shows what the right springs and shocks can do
Can't wait to test her out offroad :naughty
Got to say the handling is MUCH better :thumb2
There's actually less body roll now without ARBs than there was before when I had ARBS and the ride is a lot smoother - just shows what the right springs and shocks can do
Can't wait to test her out offroad :naughty
Barrbeast
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Cheers bud, yeh snork is on the cards at some point :thumbs
Barrbeast
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They were over 10 years old so probably fair enough bud :lol
Barrbeast
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So this pic was taken before I did the suspension lift - I'd found a part on the offroad site I go to where I could test my flex and easily cock a leg...
Pleased to say I took the Trol back there this afternoon very briefly and on the same bank she not only didn't cock a leg but there was also still a good 2"-3" of flex left in the front axle before it was going to hit the bump stop (Unfortunately no pics as it was starting to get dark).
Can't wait to try her out on the rest of the site! (and you can bet I'll get pics then :thumbs)
Pleased to say I took the Trol back there this afternoon very briefly and on the same bank she not only didn't cock a leg but there was also still a good 2"-3" of flex left in the front axle before it was going to hit the bump stop
(Unfortunately no pics as it was starting to get dark).Can't wait to try her out on the rest of the site! (and you can bet I'll get pics then :thumbs)
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Barrbeast
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Changed the glowplugs...
Changed my glowplugs yesterday.
Hadn't had any trouble starting the Trol, even with the -3 temps we've had recently, but I know the Y61 Trols suffer from Nissan's obsession with ceramic tipped glowplugs :doh and I've had her about 20 months so thought I'd best put metal ones in before I lose any tips...
This will apply for the 3.0 Trols AND the 3.0 Terranos as they're both the ZD30 engine :thumbs
Let's get started...
A big block to stand on is important - especially when your Trol is lifted! :lol
Intercooler cover off followed by the intercooler itself. It's 4 bolts and a nut on the cover (all 10mm) and 4x 12mm bolts on the intercooler. You'll need to undo the jubilee clips on the 2 intercooler pipes as well to remove it (8mm bolt heads) and unplug the boost sensor.
A wee bit oily on part of the underside (the source will become apparent shortly).
You can see the busbar in the above pics but you'll need to take the throttle body off to get at half of it though 3x 10mm bolts (don't lose the metal gasket as you'll need it when you refit it!), 8mm for the jubilee clip and you'll have 2 vac pipes to disconnect (just pull off). Don't get the vac pipes mixed up though, the longer one should be for the the connector nearest the rear of the truck.
Prepare to be shocked at the oily sooty gunk in the throttle body and the pipes leading from it to the intake manifold... (bloody EGR :hmh)
The gunk is actually holding the gasket in place...
Now that the busbar is accessible we can start taking it off - 8mm nuts
You'll next need to take off the rocker cover seals (yes that's right, Nissan decided the glowplugs should protrude through the rocker cover :doh).
They just screw out, I used a flat headed screwdriver to loosen them then unscrewed by hand.
Now it's time to tackle the glowplugs themselves, you'll need a long 12mm socket to get at them. Take it gentle so you don't break them - the fact the socket sits through the hole in the rocker cover helps :thumb2
Old plugs versus one of the new ones - tips looked ok actually (oil is from taking them through the rocker cover).
New plugs in (don't overtighten). The torque ratings are really low 18-24nm so screw in by hand first then tighten a little with the ratchet (my torque wrench doesn't go down that low but that's not much torque at all).
Replace rocker seals - I screwed in by hand then used the flat headed screwdriver to tighten.
Then the busbar.
Now clean up your throttle body before refitting. I'm going to take it off again and soak it in petrol to really clean it but in the meantime I used contact cleaner (evaporates without a residue), a flat headed screwdriver and workshop paper towel to tidy it up...
Don't forget that gasket (I also ran a paper towel round the inlets to the manifold).
Ughh :hmh
Refit throttle body and intercooler (throttle body bolts are torqued to 28nm). Don't forget to refit the vac pipes and the boost sensor.
Changed my glowplugs yesterday.
Hadn't had any trouble starting the Trol, even with the -3 temps we've had recently, but I know the Y61 Trols suffer from Nissan's obsession with ceramic tipped glowplugs :doh and I've had her about 20 months so thought I'd best put metal ones in before I lose any tips...
This will apply for the 3.0 Trols AND the 3.0 Terranos as they're both the ZD30 engine :thumbs
Let's get started...
A big block to stand on is important - especially when your Trol is lifted! :lol
Intercooler cover off followed by the intercooler itself. It's 4 bolts and a nut on the cover (all 10mm) and 4x 12mm bolts on the intercooler. You'll need to undo the jubilee clips on the 2 intercooler pipes as well to remove it (8mm bolt heads) and unplug the boost sensor.
A wee bit oily on part of the underside (the source will become apparent shortly).
You can see the busbar in the above pics but you'll need to take the throttle body off to get at half of it though
3x 10mm bolts (don't lose the metal gasket as you'll need it when you refit it!), 8mm for the jubilee clip and you'll have 2 vac pipes to disconnect (just pull off). Don't get the vac pipes mixed up though, the longer one should be for the the connector nearest the rear of the truck.Prepare to be shocked at the oily sooty gunk in the throttle body and the pipes leading from it to the intake manifold...
(bloody EGR :hmh)
The gunk is actually holding the gasket in place...
Now that the busbar is accessible we can start taking it off - 8mm nuts
You'll next need to take off the rocker cover seals (yes that's right, Nissan decided the glowplugs should protrude through the rocker cover :doh).
They just screw out, I used a flat headed screwdriver to loosen them then unscrewed by hand.
Now it's time to tackle the glowplugs themselves, you'll need a long 12mm socket to get at them. Take it gentle so you don't break them - the fact the socket sits through the hole in the rocker cover helps :thumb2
Old plugs versus one of the new ones - tips looked ok actually (oil is from taking them through the rocker cover).
New plugs in (don't overtighten). The torque ratings are really low 18-24nm so screw in by hand first then tighten a little with the ratchet (my torque wrench doesn't go down that low but that's not much torque at all).
Replace rocker seals - I screwed in by hand then used the flat headed screwdriver to tighten.
Then the busbar.
Now clean up your throttle body before refitting. I'm going to take it off again and soak it in petrol to really clean it but in the meantime I used contact cleaner (evaporates without a residue), a flat headed screwdriver and workshop paper towel to tidy it up...
Don't forget that gasket (I also ran a paper towel round the inlets to the manifold).
Ughh :hmh
Refit throttle body and intercooler (throttle body bolts are torqued to 28nm). Don't forget to refit the vac pipes and the boost sensor.
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Barrbeast
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Fitted new recovery points
So after failing to get a salvaged recovery point to replace the one I bent (after a disagreement with a rocky ledge :augie) I decided to bite the bullet and buy a set of aftermarket recovery points (before I noticed my radiator had sagged... :doh).
A new factory (unrated) recovery point is around £60 new and I was able to get a pair of 5 ton rated points from Aus for just over £100 inc shipping.
Factory points fix on two points of the chassis whereas the aftermarket ones fix on three points by sharing a bolt hole with the winch bumper :thumb2
Old points prior to removal. You can see the bent nearside tow point...
Old points off
New points on
So after failing to get a salvaged recovery point to replace the one I bent (after a disagreement with a rocky ledge :augie) I decided to bite the bullet and buy a set of aftermarket recovery points (before I noticed my radiator had sagged... :doh).
A new factory (unrated) recovery point is around £60 new and I was able to get a pair of 5 ton rated points from Aus for just over £100 inc shipping.
Factory points fix on two points of the chassis whereas the aftermarket ones fix on three points by sharing a bolt hole with the winch bumper :thumb2
Old points prior to removal. You can see the bent nearside tow point...
Old points off
New points on
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Barrbeast
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Blanked the EGR
So I made the jump and fitted a blanking plate on the Trol's 3.0 engine
Intercooler and cover off
Know your enemy, this is the bit you're wanting to block - where the EGR system connects to the intake manifold.
Remove the bolts then pull the pipe away to let the gasket slip out. I found the easiest way was to slip the blanking plate in to push the gasket out.
Gasket - see the sooty gunk on it.
Blanking plate - I was going to just buy some stainless steel and cut my own but for speed I picked one up off eBay for just under £5 delivered.
Blanking plate fitted and bolts back in place. Remember to replace the wiring bracket!
Now it's on to stage 2 - adjusting the VNT actuator to stop prolonged overboost while cruising. This doesn't stop boost spikes (they're normal) but it will stop the prolonged overboost while cruising that causes the overboost protection to kick in and can eventually knacker the ZD30 engine.
Unbolted my catch can from its bracket so I could get at the VNT actuator.
This is the VNT actuator.
10mm nuts hold the actuator to its bracket. Stuff a cloth underneath to catch them if they drop!
I undid the furthest away one first in case there was any tension on them.
Once the nuts are off stuff a cloth under the VNT lever as you need to take off the clip that holds the actuator arm onto the lever and you don't want to lose it if it pings away!
Also, do NOT adjust the actuator arm as its factory set for the specific vehicle!
This is the clip - I have a telescopic magnet which is a godsend when working on the truck!
With the clip off move the arm off the lever and it should allow you to get at the stop screw for the VNT arm. Use a permanent marker to mark the stop screw and bracket so that you can keep a track of how much you have adjusted it.
Pics stop here but you'll need an 8mm ring spanner to slacken the nut off (a thin one as there's not much space - I had to take a file to mine to make it fit).
Once the nut is slackened off, use a 2.5mm allen key to screw the stop further in ie. clockwise. It doesn't need to be far, the ZD30 ref doc suggested 3/4 of a turn initially, after reading through it (a lot) I went for a full turn.
Tighten the stop nut back up and refit everything - don't forget your cloth for catching any fallen bits before they disappear into the engine bay!
SOME TIPS
- To give me some more space I undid the pipe connecting the turbo to the intercooler.
- the nut on my stop screw was mega tight and I ended up jamming a 1/4" 8mm socket onto the long end of an appropriate sized allen key and using a pair of pliers to turn it. With the turbo pipe off (as above) there's enough space for it to sit straight above the bracket for the actuator.
- I did the same as above with the 2.5mm allen key for the stop screw. the bonus of this is you can keep the allen key in the stop screw ad use it to keep track of how far it has turned.
- for tightening the stop nut I have a pair of needle nose molegrips that I put on the bottom protruding end of the stop screw to stop it turning while I tightened the nut.
So what are impressions so far? With the VNT stop screw adjusted as above the truck seems to be a bit more responsive, especially at or above 2,000 rpm. There does seem to be a bit of a loss to the low end torque as she doesn't seem to be able to leap away at the lights quite the same way she used to but A) she can still reverse up a hill in idle no problem; and B) peak torque is at ~ 2000 rpm anyway
I'll report back as time goes on. Proof will be in the pudding once I get offroad with her and I will probably end up fitting a dawes valve and needle valve and adjusting the VNT back to its old setting in the fullness of time but for now I'm happy as having seen the state of the throttle body when I changed the glowplugs I'd rather know the EGR system isn't allowing cr*p back into my intake manifold :thumbs
So I made the jump and fitted a blanking plate on the Trol's 3.0 engine
Intercooler and cover off
Know your enemy, this is the bit you're wanting to block - where the EGR system connects to the intake manifold.
Remove the bolts then pull the pipe away to let the gasket slip out. I found the easiest way was to slip the blanking plate in to push the gasket out.
Gasket - see the sooty gunk on it.
Blanking plate - I was going to just buy some stainless steel and cut my own but for speed I picked one up off eBay for just under £5 delivered.
Blanking plate fitted and bolts back in place. Remember to replace the wiring bracket!
Now it's on to stage 2 - adjusting the VNT actuator to stop prolonged overboost while cruising. This doesn't stop boost spikes (they're normal) but it will stop the prolonged overboost while cruising that causes the overboost protection to kick in and can eventually knacker the ZD30 engine.
Unbolted my catch can from its bracket so I could get at the VNT actuator.
This is the VNT actuator.
10mm nuts hold the actuator to its bracket. Stuff a cloth underneath to catch them if they drop!
I undid the furthest away one first in case there was any tension on them.
Once the nuts are off stuff a cloth under the VNT lever as you need to take off the clip that holds the actuator arm onto the lever and you don't want to lose it if it pings away!
Also, do NOT adjust the actuator arm as its factory set for the specific vehicle!
This is the clip - I have a telescopic magnet which is a godsend when working on the truck!
With the clip off move the arm off the lever and it should allow you to get at the stop screw for the VNT arm. Use a permanent marker to mark the stop screw and bracket so that you can keep a track of how much you have adjusted it.
Pics stop here but you'll need an 8mm ring spanner to slacken the nut off (a thin one as there's not much space - I had to take a file to mine to make it fit).
Once the nut is slackened off, use a 2.5mm allen key to screw the stop further in ie. clockwise. It doesn't need to be far, the ZD30 ref doc suggested 3/4 of a turn initially, after reading through it (a lot) I went for a full turn.
Tighten the stop nut back up and refit everything - don't forget your cloth for catching any fallen bits before they disappear into the engine bay!
SOME TIPS
- To give me some more space I undid the pipe connecting the turbo to the intercooler.
- the nut on my stop screw was mega tight and I ended up jamming a 1/4" 8mm socket onto the long end of an appropriate sized allen key and using a pair of pliers to turn it. With the turbo pipe off (as above) there's enough space for it to sit straight above the bracket for the actuator.
- I did the same as above with the 2.5mm allen key for the stop screw. the bonus of this is you can keep the allen key in the stop screw ad use it to keep track of how far it has turned.
- for tightening the stop nut I have a pair of needle nose molegrips that I put on the bottom protruding end of the stop screw to stop it turning while I tightened the nut.
So what are impressions so far? With the VNT stop screw adjusted as above the truck seems to be a bit more responsive, especially at or above 2,000 rpm. There does seem to be a bit of a loss to the low end torque as she doesn't seem to be able to leap away at the lights quite the same way she used to but A) she can still reverse up a hill in idle no problem; and B) peak torque is at ~ 2000 rpm anyway
I'll report back as time goes on. Proof will be in the pudding once I get offroad with her and I will probably end up fitting a dawes valve and needle valve and adjusting the VNT back to its old setting in the fullness of time but for now I'm happy as having seen the state of the throttle body when I changed the glowplugs I'd rather know the EGR system isn't allowing cr*p back into my intake manifold :thumbs
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Barrbeast
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Cheers Pete
Had her out for a wee drive today and definitely like the slight change in how she drives, managed to spin the rear wheels on wet tarmac taking off from a roundabout as well so the low torque can't be that affected :augie :lol
Had her out for a wee drive today and definitely like the slight change in how she drives, managed to spin the rear wheels on wet tarmac taking off from a roundabout as well so the low torque can't be that affected :augie :lol
