Search results

I have the wash/wife option on mine well she has to jump out with a rag anyway!!!!!!!!!!!!!

were the wiring comes out of the body behind the n/s/r light and at this point there is a wiring plug you should be able to replace just the rear loom from this point.

yours could be a mk3 if it has a bosch maff

Its not that simple Im afraid the td was the mk1 they then made the mk2 from 12/96 until the 10/97 this was the first of the round headlamp models and had a hitachi/bosch engine managment system then they made the mk3 which went over to a all bosch engine managment system. I have seen the mk2 on...

no the later engines with the bosch maf will have bosch injectors but the earlier hitachi maf can have either but i have always found that they are zexel but the injectors will be matched to the pump

This could be a sign that your engine is sludged up the jelly like sludge gets stuck up the dipstick tube. try an oil additive engine cleaner or a very long pipe cleaner

yes yours is a mk1 with the square headlamps, I have the mk2 that was made from 12/96 upto 10/97 and has a hitachi / bosch engine managment system, the mk3 was the same with all bosch engine managment and the mk4 had another upgrade to the front

Did your new engine have the fuel pump fitted? I ask because there are two systems used on the 2.7tdi bosch and zexel the injectors are different. I also had a big problem with my engine cutting out it turned out to be a faulty air filter my engine is very fussy on air filters I was told by...

I did have a 88 degree thermostat fitted a few years ago which did make a difference but i swapped it back for the 82 degree one in the summer when i was towing. I lost the other thermostat and Nissan stopped making one and I havent found one since. One of the problems is the fact the cooling...

I tried blocking off half my radiator and it still made no difference to the engine temperature

Its not a hard job Its a days work taking it easy but the gearbox is very heavy with the transfer box on the back.

when you were in 4wd were you on solid ground as it could just be transmission wind up

you can get the tanks of ebay relitibly cheap they have a metal cage around them to stop them crushing Its just diging a hole big enough or you could cut it into the side of your hill

why not get a big plastic tank 1000ltrs bury in in the garden and pump it back to the house for flushing the toilet and to fill the washing machine not only will it save your water bill its softer water and will save on detergent.

they are also a pain in the but to bleed and if its not done right you can get the same problem I found the best way was to use a pressure bleeder connected to the damper bleed screw and force the fluid back to the resivour. I have also bypassed the damper pipe without any problems just had a...

The hydraulic system on the clutch is a bit strange, There is a pipe that goes to just above the rear axle called a damper pipe. What you have described is the usual signs that this pipe has a leak its long enough not to let air into the slave or master cylinder.

I am just in the process of building a fuel tank heater for my friend so that he can heat his wvo up and allow sediment to settle out this is ment to make wvo more reliable he uses 100%wvo and only uses it from indian take aways as its far cleaner than the chip shop oil they also change the oil...

One of my friends used to get his filters clogged up on a regular basis he fitted another pre filter from a peugeot that had a heater element in it that heats his fuel up to 20 degrees now he changes this filter once every 6 weeks and has had no problems. The biofuel also contains enzymes in it...

They are easy to fix just replace the cable from the sensor as close to it as possible. The wires get broken inside the insulation its not usually the sensor its self

standard boost is about .75bar I would take it to 1 bar and see how it goes for a while I have boosted at 1.5bar with no problems on other cars