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Its the next part in the fill chain from the metering tank/matrix. The pressure chamber is fed from the lower RH corner of the metering tank. Both of these parts on Bosch/Siemens/Neff dishwashers commonly suffer from from crud building up in both of these components. My view is for the cost of a...

From an appliance repair forum: Bosch dishwasher water hammer: I have a Bosch SGS56E02GB/45 dishwasher which has recently started causing a hammering in the pipework when it fills. I've resolved it: The float in the pressure chamber which registers the water level in the sump was not sinking...

The water metering tank under the LH side cover may be partially blocked with scale or organic matter. It is made of translucent polythene so easy to see foreign matter. Remove tank and clean with descaler or bleech as appropriate. It may need a long soak.

It may be worth checking the glow plugs as they are commonly switched on after starting until the engine coolant temperature rises to >40 Deg. If not working it may affect the idle speed under load. The fuel and coolant temperature sensors are probably worth checking too as these will affect...

Here you go.....posted 25-06-2013! complete with PDF diagram. http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=216258&postcount=17

Likely it's snake oil..... https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DS8vjWXXIJas%26vl%3Den-GB&ved=2ahUKEwjHkqXqt-fdAhXDX8AKHeBcDEIQjjgwAHoECAcQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1W-fOAf59JVXY1T_CjroPA

The tachometer signal is certainty provided by the ECU, however I am unsure whether it is derived from the CPS or number one injector lift sensor or both! It is also possible due to the absence of control sleeve feedback from the original IP that the ECU determines that the engine is not...

Before you drain it down, I suggest you loosen the element first. Or you may end up trying to stop the cylinder moving around when its empty.

This is the type of differential pressure switch we use at the University on extract and AHU's. One 6mm tube either side of of the fan...

It may be worthwhile checking the MAF (mass airflow sensor). A failing MAF does exhibit many of the symptoms you describe, typically at low engine rpm's. At cruising speeds the airflow passing the MAF is sufficient to mask the lack of MAF sensitivity at a lower airflow volume. I am not familiar...

You will need to get the spanners out FIRST. As you have to measure the length with the sliding joint fully closed.

You can fit a prop with grease nipples from an earlier vehicle. The only thing to be sure of is the closed length. There are two lengths, 645mm or 605mm. So pull yours off measure and seek.....

Some time ago I purchased a fancy hall effect DC clamp meter and out of interest measured the cranking current with it. It was just shy of 400 AMPS, and that was not in cold weather with thick oil. Now, any switch or relay does not have to be rated to switch that current, but must be able to...

I purchased a Furniture village ex display leather recliner corner suite from here over three years ago, no complaints so far and saved a packet. http://www.housegoods4u.co.uk/ProductList.aspx?catItemId=42

I had a similar problem. I stuck down some rubber D section with PU adhesive: Used on boats as a fender strip and often seen on the rear of LGV trucks. You can also run some aluminium flat bar through it drill through it and screw it down too.

I can't offer any specific advice other than to confirm the VP44 should be capable of allowing the engine to start and idle without the involvement of the ECU. The only active part the ECU plays is to adjust the the fuel injection quantity, which it does over a point to point CAN bus. However...

Before you chuck loads of hard earned a Nissan you might do well to explore a free running ECU... EG. http://www.ecutesting.com/free_running_ecu_s.html

As a temporary measure a decent cargo net suitably attached will slow/stop most flying debris. However a better approach may be to ensure the missiles are lashed down so they can't fly!

The packaging says 1mA, so yes a drain, but should be pretty insignificant in the grand scheme.

If you want your aux battery to last, then as with most LA batteries you should aim for around a maximum 50% discharge, so in reality a 110AH battery will reliably deliver 50~60AH.