Usefull and essential off road kit to carry

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Lets not forget the basic training to go with the first aid kit!

PMR's can also be handy for spotter to driver comms or use in recovery situations.
 
JonathanM said:
PMR's can also be handy for spotter to driver comms or use in recovery situations.

Oooh yes forgot those too, they live under the handbrake.

Hi viz vest too.
Hand winch as well.
 
just a tale of towing! We broke a 25mm (i htink 3.5t rated) polypropelene tow rope last week, it stretched and snapped in a second or two no time to react! however it did not whip anywhere I htink the stretching bit as it gave way absorbed the energy.

anyway we were towing bails of hay weighing in at about 400-500 kilos!

and it was a new rope! so they may not be as strong as you think, be carefull and dont do anything where breakage could cause more trouble like a vehilce rolling back unexpectedly!
 
Yeah, knew I'd forgot stuff till prompted. I also have jump leads, two hi viz vests, a few cloths. An elasticated net bag secured accross the back seat for loose bits. Old carrier bags for rubbish. Stuff sacks for wet gear. Spare fuses, spare bulbs..................2 x torches (1 small 1 x 1 million candle thingy)

I siad the list was endless :lol:

KillerPete said:
Who's got the kitchen sink? :lol:

That was in my original list - see bowl :p
 
4x4xford said:
Advise on were to purchase the straps and recommended anchor points for towing. Thanks

http://www.towsure.com/product/1016-D_Shackle_-_7mm_Galvanised

http://www.towsure.com/product/197-Securing_Strap

These are adequate, but not the best. Just looked at shackles agin and not sure how big they are?

You could always try www.justoffbase.co.uk I have used them for tools and eqpt and they are reliable.

As for front and rear recovery points, if you can fabricate then look at you chassis and see what you can come up with, I'm unfamiliar with the Mav chassis so possibly not the best to advise. Also try a google on jate rings.

Try this page, but PLEASE forget the kinetic rope exists.

http://www.paddockspares.com/scp/OFF_ROAD/Ropes_and_Recovery.html

You could try bolting or welding a pait of these front and rear:
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/OFF..._Plated_-_for_Defender_and_Series_-_pair.html

Similar to mine. A pair allows you to spread the load.
 
andy
why forget kinetic ive seen one in action twice now with cad monkey when he recovered jim terrano and big jim it seemed to work well.

or is it down to personal preference
 
robobone said:
why forget kinetic

The force exerted in a kinetic recovery of a well stuck vehicle can be many times the dead weight of the vehicle. This can rip the recovery points off vehicles which, if they hit a spectator will go straight through them and leave a recovery point shaped hole in them.

Do you really want to bet your life (or someone elses) on the integrity of the two 10mm bolts that hold the recovery hook at the front of your motor - and on the integrity of the bit of chassis they bolt into. When was the last time you checked them? For most folks, it'll be never. It's just isn't worth the risk.

Cheers
Andrew
 
cameraman said:

I hope this isn't going to stir up a hornets nest - but neither of those are adequate for offroad recovery. Impulse loads on recovery can be twice the dead weight of the stuck vehicle or more. If you tried to recovery my Patrol with one, there would be precisely zero safety margin (or less).

Decent gear is cheap enough. I think we should aim for towstraps (double thickness 50mm or 75mm) or ropes (24mm nylon) that are rated at 12 tons - about £30 or so on Ebay. Or for a bit more from Machinemart http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/heavy-duty-nylon-recovery-rope

4.75 ton SWL tested shackles don't actually break until a load of 25 - 30 tons is applied, much better. They don't break the bank either - only about a fiver on Ebay. As an aside, a 4.75ton bow shackle will fit over and lock onto a 50mm standard towball.

You could try bolting or welding a pait of these front and rear:
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/OFF..._Plated_-_for_Defender_and_Series_-_pair.html

Yep, those are ideal.

Cheers
Andrew
 
Spot on - but theres no need to spend £30 on em, I'll find some links later.

EDIT

Have a look HERE on ebay

I think THIS one is a good starting point for anyone who's looking to buy his first strop/strap and shackles.
 
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robobone said:
andy
why forget kinetic ive seen one in action twice now

or is it down to personal preference

Down to personal preferance I suppose but what andrewk says below is true and very relevant.

andrewk said:
robobone said:
why forget kinetic

The force exerted in a kinetic recovery of a well stuck vehicle can be many times the dead weight of the vehicle. This can rip the recovery points off vehicles which, if they hit a spectator will go straight through them and leave a recovery point shaped hole in them.

Do you really want to bet your life (or someone elses) on the integrity of the two 10mm bolts that hold the recovery hook at the front of your motor - and on the integrity of the bit of chassis they bolt into. When was the last time you checked them? For most folks, it'll be never. It's just isn't worth the risk.

Cheers
Andrew

Not only this but the recovery person and the person being recovered must both understand the forces involved and the recovery procedures. For a first timer to see the recovery vehicle speed off and then they suddenly catapult out of stuck, forget the brakes and oops straight into the recovery vehicle. Seen it done, seen em break(but only on video) wouldn't want to put myself or any other person in that position.

....and what about the spectators, its hard controlling on lookers at the best of times. I still see people squatting down to take vids/photos etc between vehicles being winched with wire ropes. On the scorpion racing site is a series of 3 pics showing a kinetic recovery(link in next post) and two people are between the vehicles 8O and these are supposedly experianced people showing off a product 8O


Pepole like Cadmonkey who are experianced off roaders and saftey conciuos, I have no problems with using kinetics but given the choice would always try straight pull or winch first.

So generally mate, kinetics are best left. Remember that for the most of the time here we are dealing with newcomers who don't need the added excitement :lol: plus a lot will not have a suitably strong tow point the first few times out.
 
andrewk said:
cameraman said:

I hope this isn't going to stir up a hornets nest - but neither of those are adequate for offroad recovery. Impulse loads on recovery can be twice the dead weight of the stuck vehicle or more.


4.75 ton SWL tested shackles don't actually break until a load of 25 - 30 tons is applied, much better. They don't break the bank either - only about a fiver on Ebay. As an aside, a 4.75ton bow shackle will fit over and lock onto a 50mm standard towball.

Not a hornets nest mate, everyone is entitled to an opinion and its here where we can discuss things. I am not always right(just ask my wife) and just voice what I think. I also show others the sort of kit I use to give them an idea. The links put up by HB for straps are very good and generally if you search through the 4x4 dealers you will get a better idea of what to use. You can then search around e bay and such for the same product but possibly cheaper.

One of the best places currently offering kit, but mostly land rover related is www.paddockspares.com there prices are hard to beat and you know the gear is guaranteed (unlike e bay) and some of the best available.

There are as they say on the radio "other 4x4 dealers available" many of which support this site.

www.tbruk.com
www.milneroffroad.com (specialist Jap parts)
www.specialist-leisure.co.uk
www.damarwebbingproducts.com (also has e bay shop maybe same link as HBs)
www.scorpionracing.co.uk (sells Jap parts)
www.TJMproducts.co.uk
www.mm-4x4.com
 
cameraman said:
robobone said:
andy
why forget kinetic ive seen one in action twice now

or is it down to personal preference

Down to personal preferance I suppose but what andrewk says below is true and very relevant.

andrewk said:
robobone said:
why forget kinetic

The force exerted in a kinetic recovery of a well stuck vehicle can be many times the dead weight of the vehicle. This can rip the recovery points off vehicles which, if they hit a spectator will go straight through them and leave a recovery point shaped hole in them.

Do you really want to bet your life (or someone elses) on the integrity of the two 10mm bolts that hold the recovery hook at the front of your motor - and on the integrity of the bit of chassis they bolt into. When was the last time you checked them? For most folks, it'll be never. It's just isn't worth the risk.

Cheers
Andrew

Not only this but the recovery person and the person being recovered must both understand the forces involved and the recovery procedures. For a first timer to see the recovery vehicle speed off and then they suddenly catapult out of stuck, forget the brakes and oops straight into the recovery vehicle. Seen it done, seen em break(but only on video) wouldn't want to put myself or any other person in that position.

....and what about the spectators, its hard controlling on lookers at the best of times. I still see people squatting down to take vids/photos etc between vehicles being winched with wire ropes. On the scorpion racing site is a series of 3 pics showing a kinetic recovery(link in next post) and two people are between the vehicles 8O and these are supposedly experianced people showing off a product 8O


Pepole like Cadmonkey who are experianced off roaders and saftey conciuos, I have no problems with using kinetics but given the choice would always try straight pull or winch first.

So generally mate, kinetics are best left. Remember that for the most of the time here we are dealing with newcomers who don't need the added excitement :lol: plus a lot will not have a suitably strong tow point the first few times out.

well you live and learn thanks guys
 
I would just like to say there are some great links there & it will help alot of us out who are looking or thinking about getting a better tow rope/strap.
 
Sweety said:
I would just like to say there are some great links there & it will help alot of us out who are looking or thinking about getting a better tow rope/strap.

Well thats what the forums all about, friendly advice, a bit of banter and help when you need it :wink:

Just don't forget that its ok to have a mega heavy duty trillion ton tow rope and umpteen thoushand shackles but if your recovery points are only rated at 8oz there will still be tears. :lol:
 
I have a 1.5 ton lever ratchet chain hoist with 4.5m of chain that, apart from pulling out tree stumps and removing engines from Terranos, could be used for self-recovery if I were ever daft enough to drive into some deep clag on my own - at least, it could if I had a usable ground anchor.

Has anyone ever used a screw-in ground anchor like this? Are they any good? http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/screw-in-ground-anchor-30in (Forgetec have them a lot cheaper, but they don't have pictures on their web page).

Cheers
Andrew
 
I've seen them for sale, but have never seen one in use, doesn't mean they are no good though. However i would think that, and knowing my luck, if I were to try one it would hit solid rock at about 2" - 3" -rotfl-

I think that JohnathanM knows something about the ratchet things, something like 6" of movement for 1 hours work? Still better than walking though.
 
cameraman said:
However i would think that, and knowing my luck, if I were to try one it would hit solid rock at about 2" - 3" -rotfl-

Yeah, but you'd not get stuck there in the first place. :smile:

I think that JohnathanM knows something about the ratchet things, something like 6" of movement for 1 hours work? Still better than walking though.

I've had it for years - worked fine for pulling tree stumps out in the garden, which is (theoretically) what I got it for in the first place. I bet it is hard graft - but my bet is that it'd be easier than using a hi-lift and chain as a winch.

Cheers
Andrew
 
From what I've heard from people who have used various ground anchors - if the grounds soft enough for you to put the anchor in its too soft to hold. The exception being the plough type ones that dig themselves in deeper as you pull on them.

I've got a 2½ tonne wire type hand winch, not had to use it but it was so cheap at my tool supplier that I thought why not throw it in. Only moves about 18" before needing resetting, but would only take about 5mins to move that far and reset so you could make meaningful progress over time. I need to get a ratchet strap to use with it whilst reseting. Seen it done with a high lift jack like that, slow but better than being totally stuck.
 

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