"Terrance" - 04' Terrano II SE Commercial 2.7TDi Project Thread

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What's a set of those going to cost me mate :)

Will have to work out a price now I have all the dimensions of what I have made.
Will need the length of your sill as yours is swb.
 
Donor Terrano has come in handy :naughty

Started at lunch and managed to get a lovely oil stain on my shirt :doh
Ah well I need some new ones anyways [emoji38]

Just got to drop the lower ball joint off after work and remove it drive side and we're good to go :naughty should I drain the fluid in the front diff first?

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Be careful about cv lengths are a few on facebook reported incorrect lengths of CVs are sourcing from donor parts.

If you are able marry it up against your broken one to save any agro :eek:
 
Be careful about cv lengths are a few on facebook reported incorrect lengths of CVs are sourcing from donor parts.

If you are able marry it up against your broken one to save any agro :eek:

I've got it on good authority from Rick that they are all the same, I'll soon find out when I've got it removed from the donor, then it's just a case of getting mine off when I get home and having a measure :naughty
 
I've got it on good authority from Rick that they are all the same, I'll soon find out when I've got it removed from the donor, then it's just a case of getting mine off when I get home and having a measure :naughty

I can only vouch for up to 2000, after that Nissan changed all sorts of stuff and I have only seen Alex's truck to see these differences which has not included front shafts, Rick
 
memory fails me but yes did do CVJ for Alex so yes they must be the same, Rick
 
memory fails me but yes did do CVJ for Alex so yes they must be the same, Rick

Noooooo they were different, remember the boot issue we ran into :naughty

I had split my inner boot, we tried to marry off one you had but different shape :doh
 
Manual Hubs

So I decided I'd box clever given my recent nightmare with breaking a CV on the laning weekend, I thought I could fit the Manual Hubs from the Terrano I just pulled in from Wales to stop the front shafts from spinning whilst I'm waiting for the delivery of my new driveshaft.

They are different in length and have different flanges drive side :doh £30 for one off a 2005 on eBay :naughty

So here's my Manual Hub restoration mini project

Here's what I started with when I removed them from the scrapper LWB :( Nasty :doh
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I then got the drill out with the wire brush fitment and cleaned them up as best I could
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I then painted them with Hammerite and left them to dry, now to the fitting

Nasty, crap fixed hub junk wasting my fuel always spinning the front propshaft
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I pulled the cap off the end and removed all of the 13mm nuts that were on the studs and pulled off the fixed hub which should leave you with this (note you will need circlip pliers to remove front circlip before pulling fixed hub off)

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Then you've got to remove the studs from the hub as the Manual Hubs I'm fitting had bolts that screw into the threads where the studs currently live, these can be removed by using 2 of the nuts you removed from the fixed hub, screw them both onto the end of the thread and tighten them both together as tight as possible then using a spanner, tighten the rear nut which will in turn force the stud out of its thread, I made a video to show you :naughty

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3vM8rvlPSo

Then you should be left with the below;
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Slide the inner part of the manual hub onto the shaft and position it so the thread hole recess' line up correctly, re-fit circlip onto driveshaft, and smack the cover on and screw up tight :naughty

Voila, aint they beautys :p
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They work a treat :sly
 
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So does this mean you could engage 3wd if you wish?

The CV hasn't totally died and I still had 4WD whilst we finished the day off Sunday :naughty

Nice work matey :thumb2

Cheers buddy, those bleeding Upper and Lower Ball Joints I had from Milners on Monday are no good, I'm not fitting them as I was told they had grease nipples and they don't and the upper joints just have a normal nut on them, not a castle nut with a drilled out hole through the thread to stop the nut coming off :eek:

I wasn't impressed, Julia at Milners was not impressed either, she is on the case :thumb2
 
Hmm - let us know how the balljoint issue is solved, I'm just about to order new upper and lower balljoints myself...
 
Hmm - let us know how the balljoint issue is solved, I'm just about to order new upper and lower balljoints myself...

DONT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I hate to say it but time after time now I've been having issues with Milners stuff :(, I'm in talks with another supplier

Idler arms that I've had to re-drill myself as the holes don't line up with the chassis

Cheap "Boshi" fuel filters that don't prime right

Cotter pins missing from tie rod ends packets

Ball joints with shakeproof nuts instead of castle nuts and cotter pins

It's not good enough anymore
 
Im quite surprised actually, my somewhat limited but succesful buying from milners has been untouched. never did fit my rear shoe kit so not sure if springs are all ok ect.

If not milners... :nenau who..
 
Just picked up on this. I'd been on the phone to Milners today also . I had a rear brake shoe set, spring kit and slave cylinders off them. The springs were out of a bic biro and the pins were way too long. Anyway they'll take them back ofcourse but she did say that's what they send out and it is the right part. Well it ain't, end of.:confused:
As to ball joints I can tell you it's imperative to go for the grease nipple type and preferably the Blueprint ones. That's because the extra load of big wheels WILL kill the ordinary ones pretty damn quick.
Carry on :)
 
The CV hasn't totally died and I still had 4WD whilst we finished the day off Sunday :naughty



Cheers buddy, those bleeding Upper and Lower Ball Joints I had from Milners on Monday are no good, I'm not fitting them as I was told they had grease nipples and they don't and the upper joints just have a normal nut on them, not a castle nut with a drilled out hole through the thread to stop the nut coming off :eek:

I wasn't impressed, Julia at Milners was not impressed either, she is on the case :thumb2

The uppers should have a nyloc nut on them,mine did.just as good as a castle nut and split pin.as for the greasable ball joints as far as I'm aware milners don't do them,only the track rod ends.
Greasable ones are not all they cracked up to be,busted a pair of greasable upper ones after about 3 weeks:lol:lol:lol
 

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