Squeeky Spare Wheel Bracket

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This must be the stuff that the place where I used to get my caravan serviced insist on spraying on every exposed thread and all over any surrounding areas, so that it helpfully sticks to your hands and clothes just before you set off on your journey :(

I am convinced it is a con just to make you think they have done the work, perhaps that's why the left the tops off the battery last time. This is why I don't bother with the servicing anymore.

Alan
If you're unable to find spray grease, try motorcycle chain lube, it's virtually the same thing - grease thinned down with a solvent which evaporates away when sprayed on, leaving the grease behind (and it's usually cheaper than spray grease!)
 
Had the same problem before Christmas - drove me absolutely nuts. Exactly as stated above, had a couple of spot welds broken on the bottom of the bracket behind the door card - very difficult to see so got a mate to wiggle the spare wheel whilst on the door and found them that way. Drilled out and pop riveted - sorted. Silence is golden. :clap
 
Well, I finally found the broken spot weld, it was right at the bottom.

There is also a little dent there... Many moons ago, I was reversing into a parking place, that had an 8ft high Chain link fence behind me. Just as I was about to stop, I felt a bump, and what I had missed as I was reversing in, was the 3 foot high bollard that was about a foot in front of the fence. I hit it with the spare wheel, and was very relieved there was no damage to the door... or so I thought.....

Door with panel removed...

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The broken weld, along with the small dent right at the bottom of the door.

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the fix...

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It no longer squeaks...:clap
 
nice work, mine went i the same place, except my repair was..well...crappy compared to that!!

what you used? i feel the need to do mine again...!
 
I got self drilling, self tapping bolts from Halfrauds. Basically you drill a 3.5mm hole, then wind them in with a small ratchet socket.

To be honest, the Halfrauds ones actually drill the hole too big as they strip the tread way too easily. Luckily, I started on the ones you could reach behind, so ended up putting a strip of 3mm thick aluminium strip behind there for them to bite into. After that, I made sure to not do them up so tight. I did a few round the top of the mount as well, but I used 5mm steel pop rivets for them instead.
 
ah ok, i thought it looked like you had rivveted quite a bit. I dont know too much about using rivets...but i think i need a new tool perhaps..
 
Pop rivets are very useful, but only really work in non-shear applications, since most are aluminium. They also have a habit of working loose over time, if not used correctly.

When ever we go to boot fairs/auto jumbles etc, I keep my eyes open for bags of unsorted rivets going cheap, and then spend an evening sorting them out. You usually get some weird and wonderful ones in there, but the good news is, you often get some nice strong steel ones for a lot less than if you went out and specifically purchased them.

The normal type of hand riveter does struggle to pull the steel ones up though, so for them, I have one of those concertina riveters, which allows you to put your whole body behind it.

I use them for all sorts, as they are quick and easy to use, and leave no sharp bits.
 
This must be the stuff that the place where I used to get my caravan serviced insist on spraying on every exposed thread and all over any surrounding areas, so that it helpfully sticks to your hands and clothes just before you set off on your journey :(

I am convinced it is a con just to make you think they have done the work, perhaps that's why the left the tops off the battery last time. This is why I don't bother with the servicing anymore.

Alan

Yep we use that stuff too....
ive got loads
 
from my very first post on this forum, my solution

4..very annoying squeek from the back, was to do with the spare tyre mounting bracket, it was exactly to do with the bolt thats in reverse, the panels are not welded and they were rubbing against each other, finally fixed it by padding out with a washer now I'm squeek free, i was gonna get rid of the car if i couldn't cure it as it was driving me mad
 
Pop rivets are very useful, but only really work in non-shear applications, since most are aluminium. They also have a habit of working loose over time, if not used correctly.

When ever we go to boot fairs/auto jumbles etc, I keep my eyes open for bags of unsorted rivets going cheap, and then spend an evening sorting them out. You usually get some weird and wonderful ones in there, but the good news is, you often get some nice strong steel ones for a lot less than if you went out and specifically purchased them.

The normal type of hand riveter does struggle to pull the steel ones up though, so for them, I have one of those concertina riveters, which allows you to put your whole body behind it.

I use them for all sorts, as they are quick and easy to use, and leave no sharp bits.

So i got the panel off and thanks to you guys, it did'nt take long to find the cause of my squeak.Yes the bottom spot weld had broken.Just to confirm this, i had a mate rock the spare wheel until it squeaked then i held it together with my hand. No squeak.
I drilled out the weld and put in a large zinc coated pop rivet, it seems fine ,so i did'nt see the point in doing any more. At least if it starts again, i know i'm in the right ball park. I'll probebly put some spray on before i put the door card back on, just in case.
I shudder to think how much my local garage would have charged me to fix this......days of spraying every joint in sight and changing suspension bushes !
An hours work and a 2p rivet.........are my subs due yet ?
Many thanks to everyone that's contributed to this thread and very helpfull pics, Lazy-Ferret.
Cheers,
Simon
 

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Well done.. there is something so very satisfying about fixes like that... especially any that involve a squeak or rattle.:clap
 
can you explain more about the pop rivet process?

Pop Rivets allow you to clamp 2 bits of metal together, even though you only have access to one side.

So all you have to do is drill the correct size hole through both bits of metal, put the rivet through, and then use the tool to pull the rivet up tight, which will clamp the two bits together. Once the parts are fully clamped, the rod through the rivet is designed to snap, meaning the majority of the rod ends up in the rivet tool, and just the ball at the end, which pulls up the inside of the rivet causing it to expand, stays in place... Sometimes this ball will drop back out, which is not a problem, as it has done it's job.

Basically you can use them where ever you want a semi permanent join between two plates, like you would a small nut and bolt, but could not get to the other side to hold a nut in place.

Downside is, normal pop rivets are not water proof, so you don't want to use them on the outside through to the inside, unless you put some extra work in and either seal them, or use blind rivets that have the end already sealed. Other thing is, they tend to be be best used where the two bits of metal are never meant to move in any direction, as they can work loose over time, if where they are mounted flexes, or twists.

Hope that helps.

The reason pop rivets are better for the rear door fix, over self tapping screws, as ideally with the screws, you should drill the hole right through, then open the hole on the head side, to a clearance, so the screws can then pull the back bit of metal up tight against the front bit. The problem here is, often when you try to do this, if you are not very careful, the drill goes right through, opening both holes up, plus the metal is not very thick, so not a lot for the screw to bite into to do it's job. Pop rivets go right through a clearance hole in both bits of metal, and effectively with the head on one side, and the expanding bit on the other side, pulls the two bits tight up against each other.
 
mate, that's brilliant thankyou for explaining to me, im a bit thick when it comes to stuff like that but you've explained it brilliant, I think ill get myself a riveter ive been thinking about getting one but didn't understand HOW they worked.

I am developing the squeak on my back door due to driving into a pillar in a car park so hopefully a few extra rivets will help :thumbs:bow
 
mate, that's brilliant thankyou for explaining to me, im a bit thick when it comes to stuff like that but you've explained it brilliant, I think ill get myself a riveter ive been thinking about getting one but didn't understand HOW they worked.

No problem, they are a handy bit of kit for all sorts of things, not just cars. I always keep an eye out at boot fairs and auto-jumbles for any bags of assorted rivets, as it then makes them nice and cheap to have a very good assortment lurking in a storage box. Only thing is, you use a bit of time sorting them into sizes and types. On the caravan, the power supply is riveted together, and there is a fuse holder which is badly soldered to the board. Basically, it would be a throw away product and is a very expensive item, but a quick drill out of the old rivets, re=solder the fuse holder, and then re-rivet it closed, and job was done in half an hour.


I am developing the squeak on my back door due to driving into a pillar in a car park so hopefully a few extra rivets will help :thumbs:bow

That is exactly how I did mine, the bollard was about 18" in front of a chainlink fence, I did not even see the bollard, as I reversed into the space, since it was in the middle of the parking bay, below the rear view mirror, and out of view of the side mirrors. Luckily I was only rolling back, but hit the spare wheel on the bottom edge. shortly after, the squeak started.

If it is anything like mine, the spot weld that has gone, is right at the bottom of the door, where is starts to curve under, so not immediately obvious when you first look. You have to get on your knees and look up at it.

Oh and while I think of it, don't try to drill through where the broken spot weld is, drill two holes, one above and one just below and rivet there. The bit where the weld is, will be very hard and brittle, and most likely will either blunt, or break the drill bit.
 
nice one mate thanks for the advice, might have a look this weekend :thumbs
 
Does anyone know just how difficult it is to remove the tailgate door card, mines the older type with the inner door handle.

Cheers
 
very easy. if you have a handle inside, theres one screw to undo, then its just carefully pull it out....
 

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