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Try and keep up fez ;)


will be ordering and downloading the relevant bits tomorrow. Off to watch glee repeats now.:eek:
 
He can't help it , he's been on the sauce again :lol
How's your head Fez ?:beer
 
Im riding shotgun, It's just it was mentioned after pete said.
 
If you need any consult logs for a comparison pm me, up untill the weekend my truck was running like a bitch so my logs are kind of before and after thing. changed the injector pump on Saturday after trying just about every other suspect part.
Trucks sweet as a nut now.
 
Have you checked the pump to see what was wrong? Did you fit a new one , refurb or good old second hand jobbie :rolleyes:
 
Not had chance yet, though on comparing initial logs, the advance solenoid is the only major difference. when truck was rough, the reading was a static 96.1, now it`s very erratic, dosn`t seem to correlate with my driving style at all(whilst testing on a run , steady speeds/accelorater and road conditions were applied). This is wiered because the advance valve has been electrically tested,and physically removed and all appeared to be in good order. And finally the "new" pump was sourced from ebay for the princely sum of 110 including p+p
 
The pump must be operating at the correct case pressure for the advance system to work properly. Any air or cavitataion and it wont. You'll see the adv sol figures going haywire and also likely the truck will splutter, emit clouds of white smoke and be unwilling to rev over 3000rpm.

Which leads me back to firstly the mini-filter, and thence the return valve (which sets the case pressure) as someone else mentioned.

Partially restricting the return line and having a little test drive will give you a good enough judgement on the return valve.

This is the return valve and if you remove it and find the internal seat has worked its way out (middle pic) it needs tapping back in and peening (right pic)
 

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Hi, return valve was the first thing to be replaced (after restricting the flow by doubling the pipe over) both made no difference. the banjo filter was also checked about the same time and was spotless. The strange thing about the filter being spotless was the fact that upon removal of the advance valve, lo and behold there is another, very fine filter, which was quite badly contaminated. When this was found and cleaned i thought i had got to the bottom of the problem but you guessed it exactly the same.
This is a list of check/replacements that were made during my troubles.
fuel filter and lines replaced (checked for air ingress with clear lines.)
banjo filter
maf
advance valve
return valve
all signals/voltages as per manual.
maybe a few more that i can`t recall.
There are a few posts made by me about this problem over the last few months, and action taken to follow the advice, unfortunately the only cure was the new pump.
I will be stripping the old one in the next day or 2 so hopefully the fault will be revealed.
If so i will post the results.
 
Had the clocks out this morning, no bulb in the MIL, put one in and it's on permanently. Got a mechanic I trust coming to plug it in so we'll see.
 
Had the clocks out this morning, no bulb in the MIL, put one in and it's on permanently. Got a mechanic I trust coming to plug it in so we'll see.

Now taking the bulb out was deliberate to con you into thinking all was well.
What else has he done.:doh

If he had put a blown bulb in then fair enough, you wouldn't have known it was deliberate.

So who did this criminal act.....:nenau
 
Had the clocks out this morning, no bulb in the MIL, put one in and it's on permanently. Got a mechanic I trust coming to plug it in so we'll see.

Look in down loads there is a step by step on how to read codes with paper clip then u just have to count short and long flashes free and u could do it 2nite:thumbs
 
Now taking the bulb out was deliberate to con you into thinking all was well.
What else has he done.:doh

If he had put a blown bulb in then fair enough, you wouldn't have known it was deliberate.

So who did this criminal act.....:nenau

The person's name may well be on the registration document as the previous owner. Depending on where you bought it you may have some method of redress, although they will probably say they didn't know but begs the question why they were 'really' selling it. :(
 
Ebay seller 2011nstamps
Real Name Nicola Stamps, although I'm pretty sure it was Chris Gray who sold me the car, as there is a Chris Gray car sales near him and the photo on the listing corresponds exactly to the google earth 3d images of the same area. Clever init.

Anyhoo.

Just done the checking procedure, came up with the following faults :


11 = Fuel injection pump position sensor - incorrect signal = Wiring
open/short circuit, fuel injection pump position sensor
12 = Mass air flow (MAF) sensor - circuit malfunction = Wiring open/short
circuit MAF sensor
15 = Fuel quantity adjuster position sensor - circuit malfunction = Wiring
open/short circuit, fuel quantity adjuster position sensor
17 = Module coding plug - circuit malfunction = Wiring open/short circuit,
module coding plug
18 = Fuel quantity adjuster/position sensor - malfunction = Wiring, supply
voltage, fuel quantity adjuster/position sensor, ECM, fuel injection pump
22 = Fuel quantity adjuster/position sensor - malfunction = Wiring, supply
voltage, fuel quantity adjuster/position sensor, ECM, fuel injection pump
42 = Fuel temperature sensor - incorrect signal Wiring open/short circuit, fuel
temperature sensor
43 = Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor accelerator pedal position (APP)
switch - incorrect signal = Wiring open/short circuit, APP sensor/switch.

Cleared the codes, read it again and got 15,17,42 & 43

Cleared it, started it and ran for about 30 seconds, revved it up (not) and got 11,15,17,42,43

Looks like the MAF is ok, although it still doesn't make any difference if I run the car without the MAF connected.

I just don't understand why it's worse now than it was before I changed the filters

WHAT HAVE I DONE ??????
 
Did you say earlier you managed to rev it ny pulling a cable on the bottom of tje pump?
If so it sounds like a bodged conversion to a mechanical pump. Your faults are sounding to me like the round multiplug above tje pump is not connected and the throttle also.Someone on here might know different but when i detatch my Maf sensor the truck goes into limp mode immediately no power no accelaratikn nowt.
 
Yup, definitely a cable operated pump, and I had a look in the footwell and there's no sensor on the pedal, just a cable at the top.
Any idea how to get it out of limp mode ?
 
No round mutli plug either. There are three rectangle/oval plugs at the top which are not plugged into anything and a metal bar there with the plastic remains of something quite big in the holes. Looks like there used to be something there and it's been broken off.
 
Can you take some photo's please so we know *exactly* what we're dealing with ?

From all those codes "open circuit" especially relating to pump and pedel etc does sound like a TD pump conversion...
 
There was along post just a few weeks ago about doing this kind of conversion
it is possible you could get much more relevant info from this post.Maybe talk to posters involved
sorry cannot find this post myself im at work on my mobile
 
Hows this :

The metal bar with the missing (?) plug is behind the three plugs you can see. Those three don't plug into anything. Just spoke to the previous owner (before the dealer I got it from) and he said there was nothing wrong with it when he sold it, and that he never did anything to it in the time he owned it.
 

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Yup, definitely a cable operated pump, and I had a look in the footwell and there's no sensor on the pedal, just a cable at the top.
Any idea how to get it out of limp mode ?

There was a guy on here who fitted an old cable pump to a drive by wire tdi timbo was helping the guy at at 1point can't remember who it was
 

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