Sluggish when cold

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Ha, points for me :D I'm pretty sure the MIL is and LED too :confused:
I guess you've been rolled over by the cheating bum dealer :eek:
Sounds to me like a dodgey fuel pump swap gone wrong :doh there's no round multi plug on the early Maverick TDi but there should be three or four multi plugs on that metal carrier thing.
I've got an injection pump avail if you need to retro retro fit it back to fly by wire not cable :thumbs
Good luck with the electrickery it's beyond me :surrender
 
Just been reading about Clivvys TPS problem. I got error code 43 as well.
There are also two plugs hanging down under the fusebox that aren't connected to anything. I'm guessing these should be connected to the TPS, which isn't there
 
That's because the previous plum owner took the TPS and throttle assy off to gash in a cable one. Poor old ecu doesn't know if it's coming or going :eek:
 
Looks like I need to buy the correct fuel pump, throttle pedal with sensor, and probably a shit load of other horrendously expensive and impossible to source parts, to get it running properly again. Just reading about the conversion, and it mentioned the rev counter didn't work. Mine doesn't either. I actually feel a bit better about it now the solution is looking closer. As I recall you have to take half the engine off to get to the fuel pump ? Last one I took off was on a TD and the engine was laying on my drive at the time.....
 
Took me about 6 hours to replace my pump at the weekend, guessing if you have the type with the vacumn pump on the back of the alternater it will be far quicker(mine has the pump directly below the fuel pump and the bottom nut took nearly 2 hours to remove)
Apart from the cost it would be a steady weekends work at a guess.
 
Why not take the car back to the stealer dealer and get him to sort it.
Or cough up for the job to be done :sly
 
makeitfit said:
Why not take the car back to the stealer dealer and get him to sort it.
Or cough up for the job to be done :sly
Click to expand...

I'm in 'negotiations' with him at the moment. If I can get a price for the parts :augie I can try and get some money back from him. And of course I've just got a PM from you :)
 
11redrex said:
Looks like I need to buy the correct fuel pump, throttle pedal with sensor, and probably a shit load of other horrendously expensive and impossible to source parts, to get it running properly again. Just reading about the conversion, and it mentioned the rev counter didn't work. Mine doesn't either. I actually feel a bit better about it now the solution is looking closer. As I recall you have to take half the engine off to get to the fuel pump ? Last one I took off was on a TD and the engine was laying on my drive at the time.....
Click to expand...

Well, it not all gloom... Makeitfit has a fly by wire IP, and I think Clive has a throttle assembly he may? not need, all the wiring should be there.
There may be other issues, but all fixable.
 
For negotiation prices a pump has to be worth 200 quid and a throttle assy 50
Plus labour etc That should concentrate his mind on finding you some parts he took off or some cash :naughty
Shame really as I quite fancied the Alfa he's got for the wife !
 
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Throttle is the same as mine :D
bloody freezin' out there :eek: Must check antifreeze :doh
 
One more thing, although I think we've reached a conclusion now, it runs on for about 4 seconds after I switch the ignition off. Yet another similarity to the other post.....
 
It'd possibly alot cheaper to get it running properly on the TD pump than taking it back to the fly-by-wire, in your case a zexel pump.

Where are we at with the symptoms ?
 
won't rev, no power lots of white smoke.
No rev counter
Runs on for a few seconds when switched off
Fault codes 15 17 42 43 constant. Fault code 11 if engine started.

What's involved with getting it running g right on the td pump ? my gut feeling is to put it back to how it should be with the right pump and throttle pedal, then sell this pump to recoup some of the cost . I'm in 2 minds now, although the mechanic says he's done this type of conversion before and wants to have a look at it. He's a friend so at least I know he's not going to rip me off, whatever route I decide on.
 
Rev counter is driven from either the timing case or the TDI pump itself on the Zexel trucks. Although check on the bell housing by the dipstick ...

No rev / white smoke problem is either :

Inj. pump is not able to suck pure fuel due to restriction / mini filter / sucking air.
Lift pump within inj vanes broken up.
Incorrect case pressure due to relief valve fault.
Timing shifted due to loose drive sprocket.

It needs someone who can check the pump / fuel feed. Ive even seen one with feed and return hoses transposed...

Someeone to check whats been done with the wiring thats been disconnected.

I feel your issue is a simple one, just needs an experienced person to look at it.

The first thing to do is supply the inj pump directly by gravity via a hose and small bottle.

Disregard the ECU fault codes for the moment, as the ECU is doing diddly squat.
 
What Timbo said :thumb2
That's not to say you let off the dodgy dealer though :sly
 
Good news, I've got it drive-able again. I think the admins should make this a sticky as it's never been talked about on here before.
If you look in front of the fuel pump there's a 17mm banjo bolt...:augie

It still doesn't go like it should, it still hasn't got a rev counter, and it still runs on after I turn it off, but I hope Timbo will have some solutions to these problems for me . Pleeeeeeeeeasey pleasey please.
 
Is it possible you can get some photos on here as to where the Mech Inj Pump has been coupled up to electrically?

Obviously the stop solonoid isnt connected to where it ought to be!! Goodness knows if the advance sol. is connected to anything???

Rev counter could be trickier, depends on your mechanical ability....
 
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