Running gremlins

[Lazy-Ferret]

What doesn't everyone take their engines out for pic's:augie:lol
Thought that was the case with the filter but just couldn't remember for sure as my brain has gone to mush after taking my pills:doh

:lol Could you just pop over and do mine, so I can do the clutch, and replace the gearbox?:nenau:bow

 

[AlexD333]

Wow, that's dedication, taking the engine out to picture the bits... Good Man:lol

On the filter, the centre hole is the input, and the little holes are the output.

:roflol: loving it :naughty

Thanks a lot for the picture :thumb2

Tomorrow will be the day, the truck wash and the sponge will be coming out :doh

Oh should I be able to move that arm?

 

[Bigbunny2007]

Don't start messing with the turbo, stick to fuelling issues for now. Not sure which thread it was but you had put £20 worth of diesel in? That's not enough, you need to fill it to ensure your back on diesel. The standard filter housing sucks air in when your on veg as its harder to pull from the tank in colder weather. Slow down buddy and think about it instead of acting like a cat on hot bricks. :thumb2

 

[AlexD333]

Don't start messing with the turbo, stick to fuelling issues for now. Not sure which thread it was but you had put £20 worth of diesel in? That's not enough, you need to fill it to ensure your back on diesel. The standard filter housing sucks air in when your on veg as its harder to pull from the tank in colder weather. Slow down buddy and think about it instead of acting like a cat on hot bricks. :thumb2

yeah fair enough, for now diesel will have to wait until payday, already bought my fuel which was veg oil sitting on my drive, I dont believe its fuel related. its so intermittent and the power is really ON when its ON

if it was really bad fuelling itd be constantly boggy. seems if I stop sharpish then take off again she will occasionally roar off without a single glitch. I suspect either electrical or muck on something.

EDIT - also to note, she did get really muddy, i went through the muck too fast really...

 

[Barrbeast]

I dont believe its fuel related. its so intermittent and the power is really ON when its ON

if it was really bad fuelling itd be constantly boggy. seems if I stop sharpish then take off again she will occasionally roar off without a single glitch.

Fuelling problems don't necessarily work like that I'm afraid bud :nono

When I first got my tractor I had to drive it back from the dealer that had sourced it. She hadn't had her fuel filters (she has two) changed in a long time and they were very clogged. Even so the effects weren't constant, she would roar along fine then suddenly I'd lose power BUT like you if I stopped for a second and then started again she would roar off like nothing was wrong.

Don't be so quick to discount fuelling issues as the cause of all your bother. Especially when other members have identified similar symptoms due to running veg... :augie

also to note, she did get really muddy, i went through the muck too fast really...

Yeh, you did a bit bud easily done though.

 

[AlexD333]

Fuelling problems don't necessarily work like that I'm afraid bud :nono

When I first got my tractor I had to drive it back from the dealer that had sourced it. She hadn't had her fuel filters (she has two) changed in a long time and they were very clogged. Even so the effects weren't constant, she would roar along fine then suddenly I'd lose power BUT like you if I stopped for a second and then started again she would roar off like nothing was wrong.

Don't be so quick to discount fuelling issues as the cause of all your bother. Especially when other members have identified similar symptoms due to running veg... :augie



Yeh, you did a bit bud easily done though.

hmm, wise words,

Well, considering my limited experience I think I will start with the easy stuff, tomorrow morning the mechanic overalls go on, me and my bucket of truckwash will begin removing the grime from underneath... :doh

Every plug, wire, brackets, nook and cranny will be clean afterwards. If she still plays up afterwards atleast I can eliminate that. Its weird that she was so good until after the pay n play, makes me think I upset something, but on the other hand, we had these symptoms once the maf amp was fitted.. we then swapped the maf sensor over to a spare rick had and the symptoms went away... :nenau

I will also play with the MAF wiring incase something is being wiggled into a poorly position ect.

 

[rustic]

I'm a great believer in ... " If it ain't broke don't fix it..."

What adjustments have I done to my Mav in nearly 20 years...

Errmmm... Tappets
Tightened up the front wheel bearings...
Raised front torsion bars once due to droop.


I have replaced the oil regularly, filters, and normal service items, and wear and tear items, fan belts, but still got originals as spares, brakes, tyres, upper front ball joints, front ARB joints.

It runs like a sewing machine all of the time, the only ever concern whilst driving once, in a traffic jam due to stuck cars on a hill in snow, there was a whisp of steam from under the bonnet, so when I got home I tightenened a jubilee clip.:thumb2 Sorted.

So does making or adding modifications to a vehicle actually improve it's reliability?
I will let you decide!
Ryan was also a meddler, he modded it to the point of it becoming a non starter, and then off the road... never to be driven again.

OK some mods for serious off roading are essential, but even these can affect reliability, body and suspension lifts cause extra issues to drive shafts and prop shafts, bigger tyres, more wear and tear to bearings and steering idlers, if you have the skills, parts, tools and time to check and replace these items regularly, then fine, Rick and Fez and many others who seriously off road, probably spend more time under their truck than they do behind the wheel whilst off roading.
Fine, it's part of the hobby.:thumb2

I spend more time cleaning the outside of our boat than I do cruising... again part of the hobby.:thumb2

However, if you want a vehicle that will start on the button, every time, drive hundreds of miles at a time without lifting the bonnet, other then to check your fluids, then you want to do as few mods as possible that can affect the overall reliability.

To finish where I started...
"If it ain't broke don't fix it!":thumb2


These wise words were brought to you today by Rustic.

 

[Barrbeast]

Rick and Fez and many others who seriously off road, probably spend more time under their truck than they do behind the wheel whilst off roading...

However, if you want a vehicle that will start on the button, every time, drive hundreds of miles at a time without lifting the bonnet, other then to check your fluids, then you want to do as few mods as possible that can affect the overall reliability.

True, and true! Reckon we should have a "Rustic Wise Words of the Week" :thumbs (serious!)

Part of the skill if you also use the vehicle as a daily driver is keeping the mods/reliability "scales" balanced - more easy done if you have some mechanical skills.

Of course though with mechanical skills comes the overwhelming urge to tinker... I spend so much time working on the Trol that my family think there are near enough constant things needing fixed with her when in actual fact I'm just a compulsive tinkerer and as soon as I have some small sign that something might need looked at/could be improved I can't help but get the tools out :augie

Apparently the first step is admitting you have a problem...

 

[elty001]

one thing at a time alex mate.
a good clean is always essential after a good off road session and should be the norm.sooner rather than later as mud can block up the rad fins and get baked in there reducing the cooling capacity of the rad.
start with the fuel like suggested.
a good quality injector cleaner,derv and a new filter.
run it for a couple of weeks to see if it makes a difference.
if it don't then move onto the next thing.
a fault code could be down to a broken/dodgey wire or plug.
make sure the plugs and wires to all the sensors are in good clean condition.
also make sure they are dry and spray in some wd40 before connecting them back up.
can be a slow laborious process but it costs nothing but time to check the simple things.

 

[Fez_uk]

I'd also look at disconnecting the maf amp temporarily, Costs nothing.

also Pay and plays are notorious for killing trucks

 

[AlexD333]

Woah easy guys, im only gonna clean her tomorrow. Gotta be a good place to start.

failing that then I will look at other avenues.

I am keen to learn but scared to break stuff myself as its my only 4 wheel drive, so not really like ryan, I let others do the work

And yes, I would love to disconnect the maf amp to have a look but I think its soldered in? Rick may have the answer to this one. Looks pretty fixed though.

 

[rayf3262]

And yes, I would love to disconnect the maf amp to have a look but I think its soldered in? Rick may have the answer to this one. Looks pretty fixed though.

In the OFF position the unit is bypassed, restoring the connections as OEM.
So, as long as it is wired correctly (and I would assume Rick got that right) OFF = effectively as per original connections.

 

[Sweety]

Don't start messing with the turbo,

Alex wanted to know where the actuator was so he could check that a stone etc hasn't been flicked up & stopping the rod moving fully:thumb2

 

[AlexD333]

Alex wanted to know where the actuator was so he could check that a stone etc hasn't been flicked up & stopping the rod moving fully:thumb2

Yep exactly :thumbs with no offense intended people need to stop going crazy unnecessarily

 

[AlexD333]

In the OFF position the unit is bypassed, restoring the connections as OEM.
So, as long as it is wired correctly (and I would assume Rick got that right) OFF = effectively as per original connections.

Yeah, I believe Rick was happy with the wiring, if it was wired incorrectly could it work temperamentally? :nenau As I was playing with it before my running issues, setting it up ect.

 

[elty001]

Yeah, I believe Rick was happy with the wiring, if it was wired incorrectly could it work temperamentally? :nenau As I was playing with it before my running issues, setting it up ect.

Don't think this is the issue as you had the EML light on when you came up on the laning day before the maf amp was fitted.

 

[AlexD333]

Don't think this is the issue as you had the EML light on when you came up on the laning day before the maf amp was fitted.

Yes true but, the eml light refuses to come on now... Infact I cant get it to mis behave

 

[rayf3262]

Don't think this is the issue as you had the EML light on when you came up on the laning day before the maf amp was fitted.

The post in one of your other threads that shows the OBD scanner display with a "generic $12" DTC indicates an abnormal voltage seen from the throttle position sensor.
You could confirm this by doing the flashing MIL check, if true the flash code should be 0403 (43).

 

[AlexD333]

The post in one of your other threads that shows the OBD scanner display with a "generic $12" DTC indicates an abnormal voltage seen from the throttle position sensor.
You could confirm this by doing the flashing MIL check, if true the flash code should be 0403 (43).

Oh bugger we cleared the codes, and light has not been on since. Can I still plug in paper clip and bridge bottom left n right?

 

[Bigbunny2007]

Yep exactly :thumbs with no offense intended people need to stop going crazy unnecessarily

Not going crazy, trying to help you Alex, go at it like a storm in a tea cup and you will have no idea what's going on. All good DIY mechanics will say the same, one thing at a time, process of elimination

Alex wanted to know where the actuator was so he could check that a stone etc hasn't been flicked up & stopping the rod moving fully:thumb2

If it was anything to do with the actuator been stuck or jammed it would only cause an over boost and put the elm light on and go into limp mode :thumb2
Then it will reset turning ignition on and off.