play in wheel bearing

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bobhope

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 25, 2010
Messages
128
hi guys just after a bit of advice . started a couple of weeks a go when near side tyre wearing on the outer edge. now noticed the drivers side also wearing on the outer edge .

jacked up this afternoon and shook the wheel and small movement across wheel bearing ; nearside worse than drivers all joints seem solid . is this normal to have a small amount of movement or would this suggest bearings are shot .


dave
 
You sure it's not in a ball joint or track rod end ?

Should be no play in wheel bearings
 
You sure it's not in a ball joint or track rod end ?

Should be no play in wheel bearings

all joints seem solid . movement is from the hub . only a couple of mm when i rock from side to side as if nuts are loose but obviously tight.

are they easy to replace or a pain to do .
 
If its only slight I think they are adjustable ??
 
all joints seem solid . movement is from the hub . only a couple of mm when i rock from side to side as if nuts are loose but obviously tight.

are they easy to replace or a pain to do .

easy to readjust the bearings and wont cost anything if u do it ur self i did mine acouple of weeks ago:thumbs
 
forgot to mention its the front bearing , so just a case of nipping the axle nut up to remove the play . brilliant easy fix then :thumb2
 
forgot to mention its the front bearing , so just a case of nipping the axle nut up to remove the play . brilliant easy fix then :thumb2

Sort of easy, did my front offside front last week.

Play was up and down, approx +/- 2 mm at the wall of the tyre.

jack up vehicle and use axle stands.
Remove wheel
Undo the 6 allen bolts, 6 mm af allen key.
Auto hub comes off easily, twisting it will help.
There is a circlip (snap ring) around the drive shaft, so remove this.
Then remove the brake rings they just pull off. Note which way round they go.
DO NOT PUSH THE DRIVE SHAFT IN !!! Pig to get back in.

You will see a circular washer with 2 pozidrive screws, remove the screws, then the thin washer comes off, you may need pliers as it will be held by old grease.
You will then see a circular nut with 2 large holes opposite each other and a few threaded holes that the screws go in.
I used a couple of round screw drivers or blunt 6" nails in the 2 holes then use these with a lever between them to tighten up clockwise, about 30 degrees was ok for mine, then try and fit the outer plate that lines up with 2 slots, so you can get the pozidrive screws into suitable holes.
You may have to tighten a bit more.
At this stage, you can do a check by refitting the wheel with say 3 wheel nuts, to Check the play. DON'T touch or knock the drive shaft !!

Repeat again if required, then tighten up the screws and refit the brake rings, then the circlip, then the hub. Use a torque wrench on these bolts as they only require approx 30 ft/lbs and they are easy to shear even with a 3/8" drive.

TIP, I found it easier to compress the brake caliper pistons in, by using a large G clamp on each slider pin, allows the disk to rotate, then you can check if the bearings are rumbling or too tight.

Can be done in the time it takes to drink two cups of tea.:thumb2

When all complete, don't forget to press the brake a few times to close up the front pistons before you set off...:eek:


While you are there, you can regrease the auto hubs, bearings, and a blob of grease on your steering stops. Also check the movement of the two slider pins.

Good luck.
Best regards,
Richard (Rustic).
 
Sort of easy, did my front offside front last week.

Play was up and down, approx +/- 2 mm at the wall of the tyre.

jack up vehicle and use axle stands.
Remove wheel
Undo the 6 allen bolts, 6 mm af allen key.
Auto hub comes off easily, twisting it will help.
There is a circlip (snap ring) around the drive shaft, so remove this.
Then remove the brake rings they just pull off. Note which way round they go.
DO NOT PUSH THE DRIVE SHAFT IN !!! Pig to get back in.

You will see a circular washer with 2 pozidrive screws, remove the screws, then the thin washer comes off, you may need pliers as it will be held by old grease.
You will then see a circular nut with 2 large holes opposite each other and a few threaded holes that the screws go in.
I used a couple of round screw drivers or blunt 6" nails in the 2 holes then use these with a lever between them to tighten up clockwise, about 30 degrees was ok for mine, then try and fit the outer plate that lines up with 2 slots, so you can get the pozidrive screws into suitable holes.
You may have to tighten a bit more.
At this stage, you can do a check by refitting the wheel with say 3 wheel nuts, to Check the play. DON'T touch or knock the drive shaft !!

Repeat again if required, then tighten up the screws and refit the brake rings, then the circlip, then the hub. Use a torque wrench on these bolts as they only require approx 30 ft/lbs and they are easy to shear even with a 3/8" drive.

TIP, I found it easier to compress the brake caliper pistons in, by using a large G clamp on each slider pin, allows the disk to rotate, then you can check if the bearings are rumbling or too tight.

Can be done in the time it takes to drink two cups of tea.:thumb2

When all complete, don't forget to press the brake a few times to close up the front pistons before you set off...:eek:


While you are there, you can regrease the auto hubs, bearings, and a blob of grease on your steering stops. Also check the movement of the two slider pins.

Good luck.
Best regards,
Richard (Rustic).
Thanks for that rustic . will do tomorrow . I will avoid knocking the drive shaft
as patients are not my best best points . will end up with big hammer syndrome :doh but great advice and description thank you . dave
 
Thanks for that rustic . will do tomorrow . I will avoid knocking the drive shaft
as patients are not my best best points . will end up with big hammer syndrome :doh but great advice and description thank you . dave

u can do the wheel bearing with the wheel still on:thumbs just jack up wheel and follow rustic but dont need to take wheel off
 
u can do the wheel bearing with the wheel still on:thumbs just jack up wheel and follow rustic but dont need to take wheel off

Maybe if you have steel wheels, but not with my alloys anyway.
Certainly it would make it much easier and quicker.:thumb2
 
Maybe if you have steel wheels, but not with my alloys anyway.
Certainly it would make it much easier and quicker.:thumb2

i have factory 16" alloys forgot others may not have the same wheels:doh
 
well disaster strikes managed to snap my torx bit trying to get the small bolts out of the hub .not once but twice .:doh . help...

m7f3w4.jpg
 
well managed to fish one of them out looks like a gonna have to drill the other one out . tried for over an hour to get it out but not a chance :confused: I Don't think they have ever been out before . they are solid .

anyone else had this problem


dave
 
I have never done them, but looks like you need to put plenty of penetrating fluid on those and leave it for a while
 
Try heating up, then spraying wd40 in it will smoke but draw it in as it cools. Also try hitting the tork bit with a hammer
 
Try heating up, then spraying wd40 in it will smoke but draw it in as it cools. Also try hitting the tork bit with a hammer

That's my next plan . i was going to heat the bolts up but didn't want to damage any seals . I've soaked in WD40 will leave for a couple of days then try a impact wrench . hopefully will do the trick. The 2 bits that snapped were a decent tool as well , but crikey i didn't think i would have this problem .:eek:
 
well . managed to get 4 of the six screws out . with some heat and as suggested . the other 2 the heads were stuffed so thought no problem i'll drill them the blighters out . just spent 2 hours attempting :eek:but guess are hardened screws . drill bits are new but don't seem to hardly touch them . any advice
 
you need hss drill bits for starters, more heat, more wd40, and some easy outs

heres a kit, bit pricey tho lol, u can get the corresponding easyout tho and a cheap drill bit

I'd also get an airchisel on the go and rattle them a bit, with the torx bit in a holder
 

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