NM53 EMK - 3.0 SVE Terrano

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Well this one took an unexpected turn for the worst yesterday whilst I was cleaning up underneath to get it ready to Waxoyl, I unearthed some very well hidden but also significant rot.

The N/S rear spring hanger at first glance looked fairly strong with only what looked like surface rust. After getting the bar and hammer out, I've managed to snap the chassis rail open and also created a lovely split further through the chassis rail.

After creating some rather large holes it gave me more space to inspect the inside of the chassis and by George, I'm glad I did, it looks like it's started to rot from inside out with this one :(

Being brutally honest, It could probably be repaired but would be quite an extensive repair and to be honest, another nicer truck has come up and parts from this one will be better served putting this other one back on the road.

Shame really, it's given me a chance to practice some welding skills though I suppose and plenty money to be made from it in parts.

Then there's the minor detail of the £600+ I just spent on parts for it :doh

Never mind, as I say, it should all be used.

So as of now this one is being broken for spares, so get your parts lists in to me, and before anyone asks, the wings are MINT and aren't for sale no matter how many camels or wives you offer me!!!!

Funny old world but there we go.........

Proof you should really really poke around before parting with any cash!!! Lucky this one only cost me a bag of crisps in reality
 
That is a bit of a bummer Zac, as you say always best to give it a good inspection first time round, but at least you found out before fitting all the bits back, Rick
 
Gutted for you reminded me of my old MIni rebuild!

Decades ago I bought back a Mini Cooper in a complicated divorce financial arrangement the car had the VRM LOV 378 F, I was handed the car back after 4 years of use by my Ex when it failed its MoT.

At the time I had a company car so it stood for about a year in my garage before I stripped it down standing the bodyshell on four oil drums on my driveway for another year. (The neighbours opposite must have hated the view).

I really needed a new body shell but funds were tight even though in 1978 a bare shell was "only" around £350 ish. The rear subframe was shot, the boot floor was rotten as were the sills inner & outer , both front wings, boot lid, front panel & rear panel.

I local mobile welder did a neat job of gas welding, spot welding plus brazing the front wings in place. Due to change of career I had to get it all built up over the next 3 months. All the interior was stored in the loft including wiring loom & head lining plus all the glass.

No money for a respray so it was hand painted new panels with some Aerosol painting. It passed its Mot first time - it was another 2 years before it had a decent paint job. In reality it stood me at so much money I should have done as you plan - just got another motor and kept the good bits.

My heart overruled my head - to be fair I kept it for 10 years though and sold it for a tidy sum. Last time I looked it had no current MoT.
 
After the demise of my previous 4x4 due to the dreaded iron worm I was determined that the Terrano would not suffer the same ignominious end.
Therefore I was all set to fork out on the waxoyl or similar so started a spot of Google research. After an awful lot of negative reports on the stuff, particularly problems of cracking and trapped water, I broadened my research and the most highly rated home DIY solution turned out to be boiled linseed oil!

So at £22 delivered for 5 litres I have given it a go. Bought a £7.50 pump up spray bottle from Wilkinson and did about a 2:1 mix linseed to petrol. Drove up on a couple of ramps and had the thing saturated in under 5 mins. Repeated process after a couple of days. So far used about 2 litres in all so no need to skimp on drenching inside of chassis members.

It is such an easy job it really is a shame not to do a third coat. Or is it that I am missing the smell of lovely linseed!

I shall endeavour to report on it's effectiveness.

NB Boiled linseed oil is not actually boiled and unlike raw linseed oil is not in any way safe to ingest. It is treated with the addition of heavy metals mainly cobalt compounds so the use of breathing equipment recommended.
 
After the demise of my previous 4x4 due to the dreaded iron worm I was determined that the Terrano would not suffer the same ignominious end.
Therefore I was all set to fork out on the waxoyl or similar so started a spot of Google research. After an awful lot of negative reports on the stuff, particularly problems of cracking and trapped water, I broadened my research and the most highly rated home DIY solution turned out to be boiled linseed oil!

So at £22 delivered for 5 litres I have given it a go. Bought a £7.50 pump up spray bottle from Wilkinson and did about a 2:1 mix linseed to petrol. Drove up on a couple of ramps and had the thing saturated in under 5 mins. Repeated process after a couple of days. So far used about 2 litres in all so no need to skimp on drenching inside of chassis members.

It is such an easy job it really is a shame not to do a third coat. Or is it that I am missing the smell of lovely linseed!

I shall endeavour to report on it's effectiveness.

NB Boiled linseed oil is not actually boiled and unlike raw linseed oil is not in any way safe to ingest. It is treated with the addition of heavy metals mainly cobalt compounds so the use of breathing equipment recommended.

Isn't linseed oil highly flammable?, is boiled linseed oil more stable?
 
I am not disagreeing, as I have no idea how this self combustion of linseed oil works, so just wondering why it does it ignite on rags, but not the garden bench, or in your case, T2 chassis. I take it, it is the confined spaces of the screwed up rag that allows the temperature to build up.

Look forward to seeing how it goes. I used the Hammeright underseal on both our T2's, and it definitely does turn into a hard layer that then trapped water under it, making the rust worse in places. It seemed to stay fluid in unexposed areas, but areas exposed to the sun, like the wheel arches, it almost goes like a bad plastic coating.

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I take it, it is the confined spaces of the screwed up rag that allows the temperature to build up.

Yep, when exposed to the air the oxidation of the oil produces an exothermic reaction creating enough heat to ignite the rag or even brush.

The metal of the car presumably dissipated enough heat so that the petrol didn't explode.
 
Everything has now been reclaimed :cool:

Plenty of parts in stock, PM me for prices.

Got boxes and bubble wrap to go

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Even had the windscreen

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Looking for £800 ONO for the engine and box

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Was this going to be the one you were going to sell?? Sorry to interrupt your thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Was this going to be the one you were going to sell?? Sorry to interrupt your thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
It was I'm sad to say, was too far gone and I need the space, I rushed the purchase and those ones have always come back to bite me in the ass.

Hopefully I'll get shot of the engine box and some other bits and still turn and handsome profit.

Then there's the small fact of the 3.0 SWB Black Commercial I've agreed to purchase :hide:
 
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