My fault codes......

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Just the neg, to prove if earthing is an issue.

What this man said :thumb2

I know it seems like everything that can go wrong will but trust me it happens to us all!!!! But once you've sorted it out just think to yourself how much cash you've saved and your a little more mechanically competent as a result of it

Always see the upsides of a shitty situation
 
Don't forget the two small earth points on the engine above the dip stick-those are or the pedal.
 
Ok. Here goes.

Had battery on charge all night and connected it up this morning and hardly anything in it. Turned over a few times but not enough to get it to start (same yesterday but managed to jump it from other car). Left it connected up while went up road and hour n half later went out to try the jump lead test on the neg terminal but hardly any power in it to do a thing.

So. At present I'm still none the wiser. Do I phone garage up and have a moan that the ****ed my car and risk them being right in saying that it the battery (have now tried 2 battery's. One the right amperage and one with a lower amperage and both won't get it to turn over and start).

I really don't see it it is the battery. 2 weeks ago when I gave them the car it was starting ok with no problems.

Cheers Gary
 
Ok. Here goes.

Had battery on charge all night and connected it up this morning and hardly anything in it. Turned over a few times but not enough to get it to start (same yesterday but managed to jump it from other car). Left it connected up while went up road and hour n half later went out to try the jump lead test on the neg terminal but hardly any power in it to do a thing.

So. At present I'm still none the wiser. Do I phone garage up and have a moan that the ****ed my car and risk them being right in saying that it the battery (have now tried 2 battery's. One the right amperage and one with a lower amperage and both won't get it to turn over and start).

I really don't see it it is the battery. 2 weeks ago when I gave them the car it was starting ok with no problems.

Cheers Gary

How old is your starter motor? This sounds exactly the same as the issue I had, the car just would not turn over at all and was very sluggish and slow showing all of the same symptoms of a duff/empty battery, my mate came round with his recovery van and we managed to get it jump started with 24v however a few days later it finally gave up!!!

Give up on the idea of a duff battery and Alternator now, I'd be looking at the starter
 
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i cant think what they could have done to damage the batter unless your alternator is damaged>? can you check the alternator connectors (disconnect battery first). unplug connectors and clean/inspect and refit.

doesn't sound like your battery charged correctly though last night, so I think you still have a battery problem-have you bought a NEW battery?
 
Latest update.......

Car would to start this morning. Also would not start at lunch time. Disconnected the battery and put on charge yet again untill I got home at 5pm ish.

Connected it all up and turned the key..... Nothing. Well a really sluggish turn of the starter motor (you know the one, that one that sounds like there is no power in the battery).

Turned off and the tried again. Still the same. Then tried again and low and behold after about 3 turns of the starter motor it kicked into life......

Took car for a 15 min drive and stopped it again and just left it standing for an hour.

Tried to start it again after sitting there for about an hour and exactly the same as before. Nothing. Well ok it was the sluggish turn over again.

So yeta agin I go through the motions. But this time it took 5 attempts to get it going. But it did get going.

Going to try it again in the morning.

I've not managed to do any tests of any sort as I don't have a multimeter and time was a bit short today.

Must admit the more I think of it the more I think it's the starter motor....

What do you guys think.

Cheers Gary
 
U need to do a battery drop test

But I think the starters fkd
 
could be, its a lot of money to spend and a lot of time to find out though.

When you turn the key, do you get any clicks? do the dash lights go off, or dim?

its a pig of a job to get the starter out, but there isn't much more to the system to fix really, other than the ignition switch perhaps.....
 
Have you tried running it for a while, stopping it, and then trying to start it straight away? If it starts OK then, but then fails again later, it would tend to point more towards the battery, but if fails to start even then, it could still be loads of things, and the only real way to fault find, is either substitution, or with a Multi-meter, and Jump leads, to see what is really going on.

Just wondering if your Battery Charger is OK, some need a full 24 hours plus to actually put a good charge into larger batteries, what is your Charger rated at? As an idea, if your battery is rated at 85amp, and you only have a 3amp charger it will take over 28 hours to properly charge a flat battery.

Most times, when people on here seem to have experienced starting problems, it turns out to be the Starter, but the original battery clamps are prone to snapping, and unless you look closely, it is not immediately obvious it has gone, which can create the same symptoms.
 
Have you tried running it for a while, stopping it, and then trying to start it straight away? If it starts OK then, but then fails again later, it would tend to point more towards the battery, but if fails to start even then, it could still be loads of things, and the only real way to fault find, is either substitution, or with a Multi-meter, and Jump leads, to see what is really going on.

Just wondering if your Battery Charger is OK, some need a full 24 hours plus to actually put a good charge into larger batteries, what is your Charger rated at? As an idea, if your battery is rated at 85amp, and you only have a 3amp charger it will take over 28 hours to properly charge a flat battery.

Most times, when people on here seem to have experienced starting problems, it turns out to be the Starter, but the original battery clamps are prone to snapping, and unless you look closely, it is not immediately obvious it has gone, which can create the same symptoms.

Think I need a new charger lol... think mine is so old and rated at 5amps.... not sure of other one I have but know its older.

Will get a multi meter too (then try to learn how to use it)

Will also try the taking it for a run and the stopping and trying to re start it right away.

Will report back but prob wont be till Wednesday
 
UPDATE....

Think we are getting somewhere now....

Thought I would start the car this morning, Key in turn over same old sluggishness. off and then try again. 1 turn and boom, it starts. whooo.

Let it run for 5 mins and then stopped it. restarted straight away and it kicks into life on the first turn (which it always did).

Now, am I right in thinking that this is now sounding like a starter motor issue....

CHeers Gary
 
Could be, but I'd still check the positive to solenoid and the clamps first (or have you already done that?), but it is looking more like the starter...
 
Need to check and clean the battery clamps, are you on about the solenoid on the starter motor? Is it just a case of cleaning the contact points up.

Trying to find a nice little battery charger at moment but in mean time will try to borrow one from work (20amp) super boost charge thingy with a flux capacitor.... Lol

Can't do anying for a day or 2 now due to other commitments but at least I got it to start again today. Something positive for a change.

Many thanks for all your help but if you got anymore suggestions to this and the original post of not running very good then please fire away.

Cheers Gary
 
Am I good or am I good????

I've been saying starter from post 26!!!!! lol
 
Deffo sounds like starter, Don't waste your money on a new battery like myself and Banshee did!! As my new battery just masked the real issue for a few days!! Want to be paying somewhere in the region of 90-110 for a decent starter..lots of inferior ones to be had on flea bay!! As far as the CKP sensor goes think I am right in saying Hitachi MAF then CKP will be between the belts at front held in by one 10mm bolt, and Bosch MAF CKP will be on the bell housing at the back of the engine!! Someone will be along to correct me if I am wrong, hope you get it sorted soon.
Rich..
 
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