Lokka fitted

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sorry to be the thick one but what does the lokka do. guessing it does not turn the vehicle to a difflock. as makeitfit has patrol which has difflock
 
sorry to be the thick one but what does the lokka do. guessing it does not turn the vehicle to a difflock. as makeitfit has patrol which has difflock

his patrol only has a diff lock on the rear, the Lokka gives automatic diff lock on the front when 4 wheel engaged, Rick
 
his patrol only has a diff lock on the rear, the Lokka gives automatic diff lock on the front when 4 wheel engaged, Rick

I thought difflock engaged all for wheels I drive a tractor now and again when the game seasons in if I get stuck theres a pedal I push. all four wheels start to drive. thought that was locking the diff?
 
oh there are many variations of 4 wheel drive, you have the landies that are permanent 4 wheel but they have a diff in the middle so in fact it is possible to have one wheel in the air and that will spin at a good rate with little drive to the other three so lock this middle diff and what do you get well at best two wheel drive cos the axle diffs come into play, both near side wheels on slippy stuff, = no drive, now T2's do not have this middle diff (not sure about Patrols) so with the LSD rear diff and a Lokka on the front = at least 3 wheel drive with a bit to the fourth, hope this helps, Rick
 
oh there are many variations of 4 wheel drive, you have the landies that are permanent 4 wheel but they have a diff in the middle so in fact it is possible to have one wheel in the air and that will spin at a good rate with little drive to the other three so lock this middle diff and what do you get well at best two wheel drive cos the axle diffs come into play, both near side wheels on slippy stuff, = no drive, now T2's do not have this middle diff (not sure about Patrols) so with the LSD rear diff and a Lokka on the front = at least 3 wheel drive with a bit to the fourth, hope this helps, Rick

:thumb2 might save up some pennies myself
 
I've been having a go at fitting mine today and I've come up against the same problem with the thrust washers as Rick.:doh

I don't have a lathe or the required skills even if I did have one so it's off to the Nissan dealer for me.

I don't know of a co-operative dealer in this neck of the woods, anybody recommend one?

I will have to go for the thinnest listed and even then it won't be ideal.:nenau

The cross shaft to spacer clearance is a bit hit and miss as the cross shaft is not symmetrical. One way up gives 6 tho clearance and the other way up in the same side gives 13 tho but as they say the inter cam spacing is the important bit.

Incidentally I couldn't get the front cross member off as two of the bolts would not pass the end of the torsion bar forward mount. A grinder sorted them out eventually and I will put new bolts the other way round.

Really enjoyed myself doing some real spannering again, it's been a while:D
Peter
 
I've been having a go at fitting mine today and I've come up against the same problem with the thrust washers as Rick.:doh


I will have to go for the thinnest listed and even then it won't be ideal.:nenau

The cross shaft to spacer clearance is a bit hit and miss as the cross shaft is not symmetrical. One way up gives 6 tho clearance and the other way up in the same side gives 13 tho but as they say the inter cam spacing is the important bit.

Yes I mentioned this, the secret here is to use the same face of the cross shaft for measuring

Incidentally I couldn't get the front cross member off as two of the bolts would not pass the end of the torsion bar forward mount. A grinder sorted them out eventually and I will put new bolts the other way round.

yes exactly what I done but the reverse bolt needs to be cut shorter or it will fail the moving wishbone

Really enjoyed myself doing some real spannering again, it's been a while:D
Peter
new spacers start at about 5 thou I think in six degrees up to max 25 thou, so you should be OK may need two, my originals were 35 and went down to 25, sorted, Rick
 
Fully tested Lokka

Had the day at Boxgrove and the Lokka has passed all the tests with flyin colours, I have fixed hubs and it goes into 4 a treat and to all intents and purposes stays there, I did have reservations about staying in 4 on the down hill for braking and traction, but faultless it performs just as my fixed diff but take it out of 4 and instant 2 no faffing about, now the next bit, I did not think through the fitting of a lokka to the rear correctly, I an concerned that with what will be a permanently locked diff it will affect steering in 2 wheel conditions, makitfit any comments on this, as I see it as the rear is permanently driven it will always be locked, so I think what is really needed is a switchable lock but cost may be too high, Rick
 
Rick I can only say from experience with the Trol. I have lockable rear diff and use it sparingly as otherwise the back end doesn't re ally go where I'd expected it to , if you see what I mean. So I just engage it when things are really gnarly . I prefer a bit of loose end action :lol
Rick I suggest you get an email off to Lokka Aus and have a chat. They've been really helpful so far :thumbs

Did you ever look further into adjusting the clutch plates a bit to sort of tighten the LSD to be more akin to locked than Ltd ?
 
Rick I can only say from experience with the Trol. I have lockable rear diff and use it sparingly as otherwise the back end doesn't re ally go where I'd expected it to , if you see what I mean. So I just engage it when things are really gnarly . I prefer a bit of loose end action :lol
Rick I suggest you get an email off to Lokka Aus and have a chat. They've been really helpful so far :thumbs

Did you ever look further into adjusting the clutch plates a bit to sort of tighten the LSD to be more akin to locked than Ltd ?

Yes that is what I feared, no I have not looked at adjusting the plates as yet, I think the same may come into play, get them tight enough to get better drive = too tight for manoverability :doh yes will contact them, Rick
 
I also think there's a tendancy to think locked all gets out of all muddy holes etc. I love my T2 off road and if I was still developing it I'd just lokka the front. Spot your lines well and enjoy the middle ground the LSD (when working right) can give.
Also the simple joy for me of dropping back into 2 wd and booting the back end out tail happy stylee and nipping right round a tight hairpin for example :D properly upsets the landie boys :lol
 
It's been mentioned before, what about dual handbrake, one for each rear wheel?
Stop the slipping wheel.

Easy to do I would have thought.:nenau
 
It's been mentioned before, what about dual handbrake, one for each rear wheel?
Stop the slipping wheel.

Easy to do I would have thought.:nenau

Dab of hand brake will do that too :thumbs
 
many landrovers run a rear auto difflock without issues on the road. Have you spoke to stuart about his pete?
 
many landrovers run a rear auto difflock without issues on the road. Have you spoke to stuart about his pete?

Good point but when I asked about such a thing for the T2 it was hard to find or stupidly expensive as far as I can't remember :lol
I asked Ashcroft I think but was more into the trol by then so didn't follow it through.:thumbs
 
I also think there's a tendancy to think locked all gets out of all muddy holes etc. I love my T2 off road and if I was still developing it I'd just lokka the front. Spot your lines well and enjoy the middle ground the LSD (when working right) can give.
Also the simple joy for me of dropping back into 2 wd and booting the back end out tail happy stylee and nipping right round a tight hairpin for example :D properly upsets the landie boys :lol

Yes think you are right Pete, and I do the same give it some spin on the rear to adjust position, I like the HB idea but Slindon and Boxgrove mud is so abrasive I run out of HB after only a hour or so, I now have to pull the drums and adjust the rears after every meet, and forgot how many shoes I have changed, but must check that my LSD is within tolerance, Rick
 
It's been mentioned before, what about dual handbrake, one for each rear wheel?
Stop the slipping wheel.

Easy to do I would have thought.:nenau

Lovely Idea but as mentioned before Slindon mud is very abrasive, and HB lasts no time need to pull hubs and adjust rears after every meet, Rick
 

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