FT’s Patrol Project

Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum

Help Support Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks Timbo. It does indeed sound like mine is stuck. I will give it a good pull tomorrow or the day after.

Do you by any chance know where on the Injector pump I can find the partnumber? (of the pump itself)

Found a website which sels stop solenoids and I think that the one I need is only £11 which most likely is a lot less then the dealer wants.

It also enables me to pick it up myself as most of the dealers parts have to come from Amsterdam and take roughly a week to arrive.
 
Ok guys, I am now relying on the combined knowledge on this forum and would like some help. :D

As you could read in previous posts the car doesn't want to start. I have now removed the fuel cut solenoid and removed the mechanism before installing the solenoid again. This should enable the fuel to get through even if the solenoid is faulty.

Below I have added a schematic diagram of the pump and with red I have indicated to where I get fuel. It seems to me that there can't be anything which can stop the flow of fuel. However when removing the fuel lines at the output side of the pump I still get no fuel.

Any ideas what the problem could be?

Below is a link to a website were they explain how the pump works. Only difference is that the pump in the link is mechanically controlled were mine is electronically controlled.

http://mebonty.monobasin.net/vepump.html
 

Attachments

  • pump1-BorderMaker.jpg
    pump1-BorderMaker.jpg
    96.9 KB
With the plunger removed it should start.

Are you sure you have a good supply of fuel to the pump? If they have been dry for a while they are a bugger to prime, but would have thought your pump should have remained full of diesel as you've not disconnected it ???

When you cycle the ignition, does the pump buzz for a second at switch off ?
 
Timbo,

I should have a good fuel supply to the pump. But if I am not mistaken then I am now relying on the suction of injector pump to draw fuel from the tank.

To be honest I haven't listened to the pump yet but I will do that when the battery is fully charged again. :augie

To make sure that I get fuel to the pump is it an idea to keep pressing the lift pump as this ensures fuel going to the pump?
 
as suggested by Rustic earlier, go for a temporary gravity feed with a can on the roof, should at least eliminate the need for the IP to suck!
 
Agree with Ray - use a small bottle gravity fed direct to pump input via some clear tube.

If the battery /starter is weak you'll really struggle to get it started as they rely on fast cranking speed to prime.

A can of WD40 into the intake to raise the rpms helps enormously.
 
Been thinking to difficult and forgot about Rustic's suggestion! :doh

Battery on charge as we speak so that it is in top shape before giving it a go.

Will keep you updated.
 
Been thinking to difficult and forgot about Rustic's suggestion! :doh

Battery on charge as we speak so that it is in top shape before giving it a go.

Will keep you updated.
You could also try giving a few spins with the glow plugs out,.. it may prime the IP?
 
Removed the fuel lines from the pump to the injectors at the pump side and cranked it on started motor with no fuel coming out.

Will remove the fuel lines again and try gravity feed. If I get fuel out of the delivery end of the pump then I will connect the fuel lines and loosen them at the injectors till I get fuel there etc. etc.
 
Still no luck. :(

Tried gravity feeding and got a bottle fuel of fuel connected to the pump to force to pressurize the fuel going into the pump. But either method doesn't work. There is fuel coming out of the pump but that is into the return line to the tank and only when I use my pressurized method.

Any more ideas?
 
Just a thought. As my pump is electronically controlled instead of mechanically controlled like the one in the picture above.

Could it be an electrical problem?

Or should I not get any fuel at the cut out solenoid either then?
 
Not forgotten about the car! :D

Tried to start it by removing the internal workings of the Fuel Cut solenoid and a little help from Easy Start spray but no result.

Got the multimeter out and measured if I got any voltage on the Fuel Cut solenoid and there was nothing.

So it looks like I got an electrical problem which not only affects the Fuel Cut solenoid but also might affect the electronic pump control.

Waiting for the weather to clear up and then I will go and measure the voltage/resistance on the connectors.

We are getting closer to having it run. Which would be damn handy in this weather!!
 
I just saw and read this thread from start to end and must say, "That is a job well done." :thumbs:clap I hope that you get your electrical snaffus sorted soon and get her on the road. Very nice thread!!:cool:

Mike
 
Unfortunately I have to report that I won't be having much time to continue with the car in the next couple of months. This does NOT mean that I have given up on the Patrol.

I promise that it will be roadworthy again but it just has to wait till work eases off a bit. :thumbs

When I got a few hours I will continue to work on it but I have not got enough time to delve deeper into the issue why she won't start. So at the moment I am doing small jobs which take only an hour or so. Interior was finished yesterday and the next job on the list is to install the inserts in the wheelarches, replace gearbox oil etc.

There will be updates but they will be longer apart.
 
Keep up the good work! We're all waiting to find out you've got it started and are running around in it.
Gerald :thumb2
 
After skip reading most of the post (So this may have been sugested or ruled out already) I saw you said you dont use the NATS as you only use the key in the door and the the remote.
The NATS is wired into most of the car from the ignition as well, the key has to match, so if it goes wrong then nothing will work, if you had the battery off for too long the syatem will lose the data for the key and stop responding to it. You may have to get it recoded to match back up.
Even if you bypass the pump problem then you will find anouth one just round the corner.

We have a Terrano with 2 keys, but only one of them will start the car, the other one lost the code and will now only unlock it or release the steering lock.

Like i say i could be wrong as you may have tried this, but thought i chuck my 10 pence worth in. :lol
 
Kamsin,

Thank you for your suggestion, hadn't thought about that one! However if the key or system would have lost it's coding then I would imagine that the red flashing light wouldn't stop flashing either when trying to start the car. Or am i wrong in this assumption? :confused:
 
Hi FT, I have just read the whole saga and you have been busy.:thumb2
I have just checked my Terrano as I have 2 keys, one that starts the car and the other doesn't,when I fit the correct key, the NATS light stays off when the ignition lights are on,but with the wrong key, the NATS light comes on when the ignition lights are on.
Hope this helps:)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top