FT’s Patrol Project

[Flying Torquewrench]

All nicely covered in convoluted tubing, ready to be installed.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Last photo for today. A new wire which will run from the junction box under the near side door to the off side rear light cluster. Also the two rear light clusters with additional wiring installed to connect up to the extra tail lights on the corners of the body.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

My sincere apologies for the lack of updates to my thread. At the moment all work has stopped till my friendly mechanic comes round and the car runs.

He is pretty sure it should run when the fuel injector pump is properly primed. He disagreed with all the options given (and tried) on this forum. According to him it needs an extra pump which supplies fuel under pressure. He should come round in the next 2 to 3 weeks.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

SHE RUNS AGAIN!! :jump

Unfortunately it is also time for me to eat some humble pie.

My friendly mechanic came round today and he also came to the conclusion that the fuel injector pump was stopping the fuel getting to the injectors.

Diagnostic equipment was hooked up to the car and it came up with an Immobilizer malfunction. After a search he discovered that the connector which connects to chip reader in the ignition barrel was not connected. Pretty obvious in the end but one way or the other I missed this completely. And even on my search for loose wires I had not picked it up.

Connector was quickly reconnected but then the fault memory had to be cleared before she would start. Fault memory cleared and she runs like very sweet.

No better sound then the purring of the 2.8TD 6 cylinder.

A very happy man. Let the project continue.

Once again, thank you everybody for all your helpfull advice over the last two years. Very much appreciated!!

 

[rustic]

Congratulations.:thumbs

So when is the big MOT then?

She should be ready for the snow soon.:augie:augie

Best regards,

Rustic

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Rustic,

The biggest job still to do is a bit of welding, but the windy days they forecast for the remainder of the week don't really help.

I would estimate that I need 5 full working days to get everything squared away. Fortunately, I am on leave till next sunday so this should give me some time to work on the car as long as the weather cooperates.

Being an optimist, I am hoping to have the MOT done by the end of the year, January 2013 at the latest.

So tell the snow to stay away for a few more weeks. :thumbs

 

[makeitfit]

Good work again mate glad it was one of those :doh jobs :lol

 

[Dynamics]

Great, glad to hear she's running sweetly at last. :clap

 

[solarman216]

yea, one of those stupid thinks that we all do, so easy as well, great that it is up and running again, a truly great post, respect, :bow, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

She is still throwing surprises at me.

As a previous repair by a garage, wasn't up to MOT standards (weld not continuous). I expected a relatively easy fix in just removing the panel and weld a new panel in its place.

Unfortunately when I removed the panel it only revealed a lot more rust in the door sill. Which really pisses me off as I paid £300 three years ago to have this sorted. But it seems that the only thing he has done for this money is remove the outside edge of the sill and weld (badly) a new panel in its place.

This is how it looked when I removed the panel he welded on.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

And there was me thinking that she would be on the road within a few days now that she runs. This has set me back a little while, but it will be repaired and I don't give up.

The big rusty area in the back is also within 30cm of the seat belt anchorage point so another item on the MOT fail list.

From a slightly different angle.

 

[solarman216]

what a disappointment! but fixable, so do not even think of giving up, you have put so much into this, it will be a great truck when finished, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

One of the MOT failure items was rust near the off-side seatbelt anchorage point.

As you can see on the photo in my previous post there is a fair bit of rust on the inside of the door sill. I expected the rust to go through and through and that it was this rust that the MOT inspector picked up on. However when removing all the grime on the other side of the rusty area in the door sill there was hardly any rust to be seen. A little bit of surface rust but nothing to serious.

There is a bit of surface rust in the top left hand side of the photo. But it has good solid metal underneath.

Anybody can spot something which I have missed in the next two photo's?

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Photo 2

 

[Dynamics]

No nuts !!!

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Continued with the off-side door sill repair.

First of all I cut out the rusty metal from the previous photo's and welded in some new metal. (sorry, forgot to take photo's)

When I finished that, I welded in the new outer skin of the door sill.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

To make the transition from old to new metal a little bit smoother, I applied some filler. Only a very thin coat was required.

Also used filler on the underside of the panel. Here I formed the panel in a 'U' shape so that I could weld it on the underside of the car. As you can see in the photo's I got this idea roughly halfway through. However with the weld sitting on the underside, there is more chance of mud and water to collect on top of the weld and this in turn will lead to rust. Therefore I applied some filler so that no water can collect on top of the weld. (hope this makes sense )

With first coat of filler.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

A second coat of filler has been applied and I will sand this into a smotth finish tomorrow. Finally it will get a coat of Dinitrol underbody protection.

When the car is finished I take it to a repairshop to have the dent in the door sill removed and to touch the paint up. At that the time the underbody protection will be removed and a normal coat of paint applied.


Also a question for you all.

To stop the rust in the door sill, I am planning to drill a couple of holes in it so that once a year I can give it a good rust protection. Are there any 'plugs' etc. to be found which seal the hole again after applying the rust protection?

 

[rayf3262]

Also a question for you all.

To stop the rust in the door sill, I am planning to drill a couple of holes in it so that once a year I can give it a good rust protection. Are there any 'plugs' etc. to be found which seal the hole again after applying the rust protection?

Not sure about the Patrol, but the Terrano has plastic sill/step protection covers on top of the sill. These are retained by a two part plastic screw and receptor mounted in the top of the sill, when removed leaves a few good sized holes for injecting your favourite anti corrosion muck.

 

[firebobby]

Not sure about the Patrol, but the Terrano has plastic sill/step protection covers on top of the sill. These are retained by a two part plastic screw and receptor mounted in the top of the sill, when removed leaves a few good sized holes for injecting your favourite anti corrosion muck.

Been there on mine with S80