FT’s Patrol Project

[Adz]

Apart from cutting them out & making sure you plate it well after... That 1 has got me...

( have you tried heat )

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

I have been thiking about that ADZ, but I am not really keen to cut in that area as it has a double plate and difficult to get to.

The outside bolts are not that much of a problem as I should be able to loosen the welds of the nuts and just put in new locking nuts. The hard part are the two inside ones which are in the chassis rails. I will try how easy the locking nuts are removed on the outside ones and if that works fine I will cut a little flap in the chassis and remove the inside locking nuts too. This way I can cut the chassis were it is only one plate instead of a double.

More ideas are more than welcome. Willing to pay to have them removed if it stops me cutting into the chassis.

 

[Deleted account DD]

Who has a good idea to get these studs out of the chassis?

yes, quite easy actually been there/ done it on an airframe

but first..............

you dont say if the drilling/extractor failed because theyre too hard/too tight/extractor broken, pls expand and if poss a sample pic :thumb2

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Daved, similar experience there then. :thumbs Removed them more then I care to remember on aircraft but unfortunately it isn't working on the car.

Got some Snap On extractors but they shear as the bolt is to tight. Using a breaker bar and it does what it says on the tin, it breaks. Unfortunately it breaks the extractor instead of removing the bolt.

I will get a pic tomorrow.

 

[Deleted account DD]

You'll know where i'm coming from then , maybe done the same course hope this isnt teaching you to suck eggs , only the best riggers got a go :naughty:naughty:naughty (plus hopefully help anyone else who faces similar :thumb2)

Measure the pitch and depth of the thread plus the overall diameter of the stud for future ref.

Cut off the studs reasonably close in, this is so theres not as much to drill but just enough to get hold of with long nose pliers et al later on.

Then the steady hand comes in for the long haul........................

centre pop the bolt and using a tiny pilot drill start going in, straight and true (windies would be best)

then start going up through the drill sizes steadily checking youre still going in straight.

once your either wonky and getting close to the nut thread (the swarf will change colour), or if dead on a mill or so, from the overall diameter of the stud stop drilling. If youve been accurate you will only have a small bit of material left in which you can rag out with any tool of your choosing or use a taper tap smaller diameter than the original stud thread size. heat or wd40 may help at this stage.Then tap/clean out to the correct stud size.

alternatively drill out as close as you can to the appropriates size to use a parallel stud remover. The advantage of the parallel ones are they dont expand the remaining material.again heat or wd40 may help at this stage. once thats done go at it with a tap to clean the thread if neccesary.

If youve damage the lock bit of the anchor nut just use some thread lock , metal putty or any mechanical / peening to jam em in.

As far as the ones with a broken of remover in them, thats either a modification on the above going up through the drill hardness cobalt and onto maybe carbide (if im remembering correctly ....was a while back )

otherwise back to the butchery techniques :doh

I must be honest i loved doing these jobs.


whatever...................good luck :thumb2

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

That is a very detailed description of how to do it!! :thumbs

Only an airframe & powerplant guy so the difficult ones were left for the sheetmetal guy's. :augie

Haven't got that much time this week and the weather doesn't look to good either. But will keep you updated on the progress. Need to have a look on the net for some proper extractors as mine are fine but possibly a bit small for the current job at hand.

Will post a couple of piccies when I get stuck into it.

Thanks for your reply.

 

[Deleted account DD]

good luck :thumb2

the one thing amongst it all that made life easier when i was presented with my first set are the parallel extractors. Being a bit thick I couldnt suss out why until i realised they were effectively using their own splines and not pushing material out the way :doh:doh:doh

if you were a splitter it'll be a piece of piss :naughty

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Daved,

You are not the only one who is a bit thick. :lol Can you post a pic of the parallel extractor or a link (via PM) to where I can buy them?

Never heard of them and a search on the internet is not very fruitfull. Maybe I am just very thick.

 

[R1cho]

http://www.toolbank.com/c/C3467

 

[briggie]

http://www.sulco.co.nz/Category?Action=View&Category_id=498

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Thanks guy's. Typical case of searching the internet but not really reading the results!!

 

[rustic]

I hate screw or stud extractors, they usually snap off in the broken bolt, then you have a greater problem.:doh

The parallel ones seem a good idea though.


.

 

[solarman216]

drill them out, by far the easiest and very often if you enlarge the drill size by small steps then when you virtually only have thread left the remains of the bolt screw out with only slight damage to the remaining thread, only time it does not work so easy is in a blind hole, done it hundreds of times, Rick

 

[rustic]

drill them out, by far the easiest and very often if you enlarge the drill size by small steps then when you virtually only have thread left the remains of the bolt screw out with only slight damage to the remaining thread, only time it does not work so easy is in a blind hole, done it hundreds of times, Rick

In the past I have never squared off the broken stud prior to centre punching, but now I have a Grinder....:thumb2

I can see the advantage of the step size increase.:thumb2

The problem I would have is to ensure the drill is parallel to the thread in both directions.

In fact thinking on, I would arrange some form of clamping method, and use the old Black and Decker drill stand attachment in the future.

I have a project to remove a screw that holds a Eurolock in a UPVC door, the screw is tight, and I have used screw extractors which look like a reverse countersink, and now I have a screw with a countersink :doh

The screw is M5 approx and 50mm long, so drilling that far will be a challenge.

ANY ideas guys?....:nenau



Best regards, Rustic

 

[solarman216]

I have a project to remove a screw that holds a Eurolock in a UPVC door, the screw is tight, and I have used screw extractors which look like a reverse countersink, and now I have a screw with a countersink :doh

The screw is M5 approx and 50mm long, so drilling that far will be a challenge.

ANY ideas guys?....:nenau



Best regards, Rustic

the screw goes through the metal lock mechanism then into the lock, it simply stops it sliding out, most that I have come across are brass so easy to drill, if you have a steel one it will still drill OK even if you make the hole through the mechanism larger in the process once you have drilled right through the lock barrel use the key and remove it, bin it, fit a new one, even if the screw is sloppy it will not affect the security of the lock as it cannot be withdrawn with the screw in place, hope that helps, Rick

 

[rustic]

the screw goes through the metal lock mechanism then into the lock, it simply stops it sliding out, most that I have come across are brass so easy to drill, if you have a steel one it will still drill OK even if you make the hole through the mechanism larger in the process once you have drilled right through the lock barrel use the key and remove it, bin it, fit a new one, even if the screw is sloppy it will not affect the security of the lock as it cannot be withdrawn with the screw in place, hope that helps, Rick

Thanks for the advice Rick, I always read your posts and make mental notes as your advice is from great experiance, so I know it's the best and it works.. :thumb2

Best regards,
Richard (Rustic)

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Ok, drilling out the offending studs it is.

Only have to get some descent drills to do this job. So far only used the Bosch drills which have been fine but they seem to struggle a bit with the current job at hand.

So I have been looking for cobalt drills and you got two choices, either 5% (m35) cobalt or 8% (m42) cobalt. Reading various threads on the net the 8% cobalt drills are stronger (and more brittle) however what are you using?

A descent set of m35 drills cost around £30 and a set of m42 drills is around £85. Worthwhile the extra investment or for the occasional use the m35 are good enough?

For my normal jobs (workrelated) I use standard drills as most of the stuff I drill is aluminium so no problem with a normal metal drill.

 

[Deleted account DD]

drill them out, by far the easiest and very often if you enlarge the drill size by small steps then when you virtually only have thread left the remains of the bolt screw out with only slight damage to the remaining thread, only time it does not work so easy is in a blind hole, done it hundreds of times, Rick

thats what i described earlier. however the problem is heavier duty the application the studs relate to, the more precise youve got to be to try and not damage them. Drilling to the end is the last resort engineering wise. Using extractors you have more of a chance of no as opposed to minimum damage because you havent gone through to the anchor nut. Particularly important if theyre nyloc or mechanical lock nuts.

we're talking engineering here not hacking and bashing :augie

one way to achieve very accurate drilling though if you have access to a pillar drill is to make a set of guides up. very very easy especilly if the offending stud is perpendicular to the chassis member. would speed up the drilling and save tired eyes cock ups

 

[Deleted account DD]

Daved,

You are not the only one who is a bit thick. :lol Can you post a pic of the parallel extractor or a link (via PM) to where I can buy them?

Never heard of them and a search on the internet is not very fruitfull. Maybe I am just very thick.

hi, these are the exact ones ive used. very very good. theyre from snap on . one advantage they have over the taper ones id forgotten about are the drive colletts. They slide down flush to the surface of the material/chassis so less wobble.

im not sure where id go in the uk to buy them but they are available on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLUE...t=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item2eb756d16e



:thumb2

 

[Deleted account DD]

So I have been looking for cobalt drills and you got two choices, either 5% (m35) cobalt or 8% (m42) cobalt. Reading various threads on the net the 8% cobalt drills are stronger (and more brittle) however what are you using?

have to honest i dont know for sure, i have a set of cobalts, not sure what % . maybe try the ones that come in any set you buy first?

i would guess as youre being precise the strength of the drill is the most important and the brittleness no great problem.

what lube or coolant do they recommend with those drills?