FT’s Patrol Project

[Flying Torquewrench]

Daved, to be honest I have no idea which lubricant they advise with those drills. That is the next thing on the to-do-list.

Just bought the Snap On extractor set which you provided the link for. The price seemed reasonable and only two items used so not to bad. A drill is easily replaced if required.

Personally I prefer to use an extractor instead of drilling the bolts out. Reason for this is that they are on the underside of the chassis so a bit of a pain to get to. Might give welding a nut on them another go over the weekend as they do protrude by up to an inch so a bit of material to play with.

Thanks for everybody's advice! :clap

 

[solarman216]

Ok, drilling out the offending studs it is.

Only have to get some descent drills to do this job. So far only used the Bosch drills which have been fine but they seem to struggle a bit with the current job at hand.

So I have been looking for cobalt drills and you got two choices, either 5% (m35) cobalt or 8% (m42) cobalt. Reading various threads on the net the 8% cobalt drills are stronger (and more brittle) however what are you using?

A descent set of m35 drills cost around £30 and a set of m42 drills is around £85. Worthwhile the extra investment or for the occasional use the m35 are good enough?

For my normal jobs (workrelated) I use standard drills as most of the stuff I drill is aluminium so no problem with a normal metal drill.

I use whatever I can get hold of Dorma are good but would not pay more than £15 for a set 1 mm to 10 mm, the secret with drills is keep them sharp, plenty of pressure and not too fast speed and if needed spray cutting fluid makes the word of difference, any of my drills will do stainless no problem but I do keep them sharp, and profile the cutting edge to suite the job, if you are interested in that I will explain further and try and put some pics up, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Rick, your explanation and pics would be more then welcome. However this might warrant its own thread as I am sure more members are interested in it. It will only get lost in the depths of this thread.

I have been working on the car over the last few days, weather permitting. Why do we have such a horrible summer when I am working on my project?? :doh

First of all started with removing some rusted metal on the front right hand side of the car.

Before.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Inside the wheelarch.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

After some angle grinding. Not much left.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Welding will be done when it is not as windy. All pieces have been made already they 'just' need to be welded in place.

Today I removed the right hand front wing to have a look at the rust under the wing.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Bit of rust on the wing.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Same wing.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

And the last one of the wing. Unfortunately I only have 1.2mm metal at home so have to go out on wednesday to buy some 0.9mm and start working on the wings.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Removing some rust on the structure.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Same side, now in primer.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

And a final coat of black. Not to bothered about the colour as nobody will see it.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Other side. Left hand front wing. Rust is slightly worse on this side, yet not that bad that it can't be cleaned up. Saves me some cutting and welding.

Last photo for today. This side has also been cleaned, primed and given a final black coat.

 

[Deleted account DD]

a lot going on there :thumb2

one thing that crossed my mind about surface protection which we used when refurbishing a Triumph Herald Chassis to save a few quid.

Have a trawl through the reduced bins at paint suppliers, Halfords, B&Q etc. You may well pick up dramatically reduced tins of hammerite. We got a load of yellow and green that no one else wanted at a fraction of the price. Slapped it on then used just a couple of tins of full price black to hide the rainbow

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

No offense intended Daved, but Hammerite is not coming anywhere close to my car. Seen to many cases were the rust comes straight through the Hammerite.

But apart from the Hammerite it is an excellent plan. :thumbs

 

[Deleted account DD]

No offense intended Daved, but Hammerite is not coming anywhere close to my car. Seen to many cases were the rust comes straight through the Hammerite.

But apart from the Hammerite it is an excellent plan. :thumbs

no offence taken we painted all the hidden bits after treating the rust. Was my mates car and lets just say once his missus became aware of the full extent of his activities he found his budget well restricted :lol:lol:lol

 

[jims-terrano]

Don't know if it's worth thinking about for the inner wings where you're working at the mo but..... I need some more underseal for the Terrano a few weeks back and got some Finnegan's Underseal with added Wax Oil and I have to say went on loads better than another brand I had been using. Is this stuff worth thinking about for these locations?

Well done so far.

Jim

 

[rustic]

This is the most interesting thread on the system and I follow it with great interest, keep the pictures of the progress coming.
Very much appreciated. :thumb2

I hope the weather improves, well done.
Best regards, Rustic.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Jim, after painting the whole area will be sprayed with Dinitrol cavity wax or Dinitrol underbody sealant. Personally I am not a great fan of wax oil as it tends to sit on the rust were Dinitrol goes into the rust.

But as with everything, opinions differ and the above is only my opinion. :thumb2

 

[Adz]

This is the most interesting thread on the system and I follow it with great interest, keep the pictures of the progress coming.
Very much appreciated. :thumb2

I hope the weather improves, well done.
Best regards, Rustic.

:thumbs :clap :bow

As above :thumbs