FT’s Patrol Project

[Deleted account DD]

Unfortunately starting to feel like a stuck record but there is no sign of a chassis number anywhere on the chassis. I have been all over it today and can't find a number on either chassis.

However if somebody finds it on a Y61 then I would like to see a photo. Obviously not with the whole chassis number visible.

Just catching up on this thread.

Dont worry about it.

First step is to speak to an mot'r and see if their documents list the troll as requiring the chassis number located and confirmed on the chasis, im fairly certain its not the case.

Even the term chassis number is slightly inaccurate and outdated. Vehicle id is is made these days by the vin. That on yours I understand is on the bodyshell and that is what will provide id for all intents and purposes on a day to day basis.

if you think about it every time you dropped a new engine bottom end in you could be acuse of creating a ringer

Youre not making a ringer anyway, a ringer is one who's id is deliberately disguised inorder to deceive , yours is a legit major component repair and particularly with the refurb rather than simple swapping over can be demonstrated beyond reasonable doubt :thumb2

hope that helps a little.

ps the weldings superb for a newbie, ive been practicing off and on for years and im still crap :lol

 

[solarman216]

just looked at your test welds, and good so far, next is to put two plates upright and do a vertical weld flat, then try it at 90 degrees like in a corner, then practice lots on upside down cos that is reality, not being critical just offering some help, if those were your first ever welds then you look to have the gift, I been dong it 40 odd years but my eyes let me down now just cant focus at the correct point when contorted under a motor, Rick

 

[cleangreenm/c]

Brill welds have seen pro welders do a much worse weld.But as is said above overhead and verticale is much moredifficult.some times you try welding and it just dont go right andyet next time its perfect ------PRACTICE

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Thank you guy's for all the replies. It really makes it worthwhile keeping this thread up to date.

After practicing some more welding yester day I have finally started on the car. And to be honest at the moment I am demotivated and the thought has occured to scrap the whole. There is some much rust on it that no matter what you remove there is more rust behind it.

And Larson was right :bow, welding on the Patrol isn't that easy. Even on the lowest setting I burn holes through the metal. Very frustrating.

Removed the front section of the body (which supports the bonnet latch) for repair today. Initial plan was to repair it on the car but the bottom support is build up out of three different sheets of metal all folded over eachother and then spot welded together. Not an easy repair and if I wasn't bald I would have pulled all my hair out today.

Which brings me to another point. To get the section out I had to drill out all the spot welds but because the metal is so thin I ended up with a hole. Well actually 30 or so of them. How can I best fill these up when I put the section back in place? I think I need to hold something behind the hole but what?

Overview. The plate on the left hand side is temporarily to give the front end strength while I remove it.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Removing the spotwelds.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Front end removed.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Rust layers visible.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

More rust. Apologies for the photo quality.

You can see that the outer layer is pushed up from within. After cutting the first layer away there is no metal left in the middle layer.
A royal pain in the backside and that is on both the left and right side of the front end section.

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

A good view of the rust layer.

 

[makeitfit]

My maverick had a completely trashed front cross rail thing. My mate who helped me do the welding said it was easier to cut a good one off a scrapper and graft that on instead:sly

 

[Adz]

:thumbs :clap

 

[larson]

Thank you guy's for all the replies. It really makes it worthwhile keeping this thread up to date.

After practicing some more welding yester day I have finally started on the car. And to be honest at the moment I am demotivated and the thought has occured to scrap the whole. There is some much rust on it that no matter what you remove there is more rust behind it.

And Larson was right :bow, welding on the Patrol isn't that easy. Even on the lowest setting I burn holes through the metal. Very frustrating.

Removed the front section of the body (which supports the bonnet latch) for repair today. Initial plan was to repair it on the car but the bottom support is build up out of three different sheets of metal all folded over each other and then spot welded together. Not an easy repair and if I wasn't bald I would have pulled all my hair out today.

Which brings me to another point. To get the section out I had to drill out all the spot welds but because the metal is so thin I ended up with a hole. Well actually 30 or so of them. How can I best fill these up when I put the section back in place? I think I need to hold something behind the hole but what?

Overview. The plate on the left hand side is temporarily to give the front end strength while I remove it.

at work im a welder and there is some jobs i need to be a bit easy and make sure i dont get too much penetration, what i do if i use a 10mm thick strip of ally and place it tight under were in welding. you could do this on your holes and gently blob the holes up ( short bursts on the trigger). the steel wont weld to the ally but might stick a bit

when your blowing holes try start your weld on the new metal and again use short bursts if need be

ugly welds can be ground back, if you wish

 

[cleangreenm/c]

DONT give up you are doing a very verygood job, there are welders that have done it all their lives and they would not even think of welding cars.
new metal ehere you can move it about is one thing, but rusty metal is a nightmare.
try to go onto as much good metal as possible
its goin to be a long drawn out pro cess but when done YOU WILL have done it not some one else . Roy:clap

 

[solarman216]

I find the best way to weld to any sort of rusted metal is to sand blast it, you need to over-plate and get back to good steel and where it is not in a nice line with your plate, that is the place to blast, it only eats the rust away leaving a perfect welding surface, you can get small hand blasters from Machine Mart, Ideal for your job and will make a world of difference, but make sure the sand cant get into anything sensitive, it does get everywhere, Rick

 

[spinna]

Dont give up. I know how u feel i keep finding more rust on my Troll but im determined to keep going with it cus its a great truck. Just think how proud u will be when its finished knowing that its all ur hard work:thumb2
Trust me it will be worth it:thumbs

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Thanks you all for your advice. It is all greatly appreciated and certainly taken to heart.

I have to admit that this forum is so much better then the other Patrol forum I have visited. Admittedly the other forum (foreign) is full of projects like mine but the help on this forum is ten times better. It is an excellent place for information and help, and as every forum it all depends on its members, and you guy's (and girl's) are top notch :thumbs:clap

The project is on hold while I am on holiday for a week. Once I get back I will pick up the pace a bit as I want it finished before the winter sets in.

The photo below is some actual welding done on the car after asking for advice on this and a welders forum. Looks a lot better and as you can see no holes!! Might not be perfect but we are slowly making progress. Only minor point in this photo is that I neede more shielding gas, hence the brown stains.

 

[solarman216]

OK welding MIG outside is always a problem, in the interests of gas wastage it is better to cover the immediate weld area with some kind of draft break, plastic sheet? whatever, but your weld looks good, Rick

 

[Adz]

OK welding MIG outside is always a problem, in the interests of gas wastage it is better to cover the immediate weld area with some kind of draft break, plastic sheet? whatever, but your weld looks good, Rick

:clap :thumbs :bow

 

[illy]

Just passed my welding test this week to conform to Peugeot warrentys, and been informed that what we've been calling MIG all these years isnt, its MAG Metal Active Gas. I've been trying to fiend out the diferance since looking at a Peugeot technical document which referd to MAG welding, aparently the yanks have proved that the gas (argonshield light) is an active gas not inert. mmmm?

illy

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Ok guy's I need some help!:question

When removing the engine and gearbox the breaker has torched the bolts which hold the gearbox support to the chassis. I am left with five studs which protrude up to half an inch.

Today I have tried to weld nuts on to the bolts so that I could remove them. Unfortunately this was no great succes. Every time I put a spanner on the new nuts the bolt shears of just below the the nut and its weld. So the protruding stud gets shorter each time but no movement.

I have also tried to drill a hole in the bottom of the stud so that I can remove them with an extractor but that doesn't work either. Running out of ideas and remaining metal.

Who has a good idea to get these studs out of the chassis?