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Cheers Ferdi, I had no idea either that hammerite made underseal. I have slapped it on liberally and due to the waxoyl it doesn’t harden completely. It stays quite flexible which is good as it shouldn’t crack.
FT’s Patrol Project
- Thread starter Flying Torquewrench
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Help Support Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum:
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Occasionally she struggles to start and on Monday and Today it took at least 5 attempts before she started. Ticks over fine on the starter motor but just didn’t want to start. All fuel lines are relatively new and there is no air in the system.
I am thinking that the glow plugs are coming to the end of their life. Almost 23 years old, 125k miles and never had new glow plugs. Need to have a look at them with the multi meter as I am a bit reluctant to remove them if not required. I don’t want to end up with broken glow plugs.
She also is losing a bit of power on uphill stretches at slow speeds. A little while ago I was going up a little hill at around 5 mph. At these speeds (uphill) she will just not respond to any throttle movement. Not sure if it is a Patrol or a fault somewhere. I need to do a bit of research into this.
I am thinking that the glow plugs are coming to the end of their life. Almost 23 years old, 125k miles and never had new glow plugs. Need to have a look at them with the multi meter as I am a bit reluctant to remove them if not required. I don’t want to end up with broken glow plugs.
She also is losing a bit of power on uphill stretches at slow speeds. A little while ago I was going up a little hill at around 5 mph. At these speeds (uphill) she will just not respond to any throttle movement. Not sure if it is a Patrol or a fault somewhere. I need to do a bit of research into this.
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I am having power issues as well at this time, keep posting what you find as I will, Rick
Banshee
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Almost 23 years old, 125k miles and never had new glow plugs. Need to have a look at them with the multi meter as I am a bit reluctant to remove them if not required. I don’t want to end up with broken glow plugs.
I know this pain
Still need to get my head repaired
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A know starting problem on the 2.8 is down to the main power lead to busbar fixing bolt.
It Can work loose and give the same symptoms as worn glow plugs.
not sure about the power loss but simple things like a dirty air filter/fuel filter or a split vac line might be worth looking at.
It Can work loose and give the same symptoms as worn glow plugs.
not sure about the power loss but simple things like a dirty air filter/fuel filter or a split vac line might be worth looking at.
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I know this pain
Still need to get my head repaired
mate,your head is beyond repair:roflol::roflol::roflol:
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Will do Rick! Thanks
Yes Zac, reading about your issue with the glow plug that has broken in your head I am very reluctant to touch them.
Elty, all filters have been replaced so I am not expecting any problems there. However the busbar fixing bolt is a good one and I will check that.
The power issues only manifest themselves at slow speeds. Anything at higher speeds and she is fine. Yesterday I was taking some scrap away and the total weight of the truck and trailer was 3180 kg, so not overly heavy. The little hill I talked about is on our single track lane and I got stuck behind a horse going up the hill. I tried to keep the revs up but didn’t want to scare the horse either. Once they drop to below about 1200 rpm there is no throttle response at all if the speed is low. This is exactly the same when I don’t tow a trailer. With the trailer in tow I had to select 4WD and it pulled away quite nicely.
Yes Zac, reading about your issue with the glow plug that has broken in your head I am very reluctant to touch them.
Elty, all filters have been replaced so I am not expecting any problems there. However the busbar fixing bolt is a good one and I will check that.
The power issues only manifest themselves at slow speeds. Anything at higher speeds and she is fine. Yesterday I was taking some scrap away and the total weight of the truck and trailer was 3180 kg, so not overly heavy. The little hill I talked about is on our single track lane and I got stuck behind a horse going up the hill. I tried to keep the revs up but didn’t want to scare the horse either. Once they drop to below about 1200 rpm there is no throttle response at all if the speed is low. This is exactly the same when I don’t tow a trailer. With the trailer in tow I had to select 4WD and it pulled away quite nicely.
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Have a read of this,gives you a few area to look at:thumb2
Nissan Mechanic: Matt
Hello
I'd 1st consider changing the fuel filter as if this partially blocked this too will reduce pressure.
If both of these are OK then also check the connections to the EGR valve, if either the vacuum pipe of electrical connection are damaged / corroded then the EGR can be on all time which certainly will hurt performance. Its also possible that its a fault with the EGR valve so its worth removing the valve and cleaning it out with brake cleaner, if it looks particularly clogged then replace it.
If this is OK then check the small vacuum lines to the turbo and its connected control solenoid on the bulkhead, any cracks or leaks can give turbo issues and its best to have the boost pressure measured actually measured with a boost gauge to check that the turbo is healthy and that the sensor is reading correctly
If its a variable vane turbo (they’ll be an actuator on the turbo body - but not a wastegate) then check its vacuum pipework as above and check the connections to the diaphragm / solenoid valve
Also worth checking that the glow-plug relay is switching off as they can stick on and leave the glow plugs also on - on some cars this can force it into limp home
Also worth considering a bottle of injector cleaner into the tank as a clogged injector nozzle will reduce power and give poor combustion - the next stage on from this is to remove all the injectors and have them ultrasonically cleaned and flow checked
Also check all the high pressure hoses post turbo/s for any split hoses or cracked metal pipes, also check the ends of the intercooler as its not unheard of to pop the end caps off under high boost.
If the above are all OK then try checking for airleaks after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and leans the engine out causing rough running. As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometime hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.
Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.
The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.
Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.
Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.
if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty
I'd also suggest inspecting the throttle pedal sensor for corroded contacts and damaged wiring
and finally its worth doing a compression test on all cylinders just to ensure the that the base engine is OK
Nissan Mechanic: Matt
Hello
I'd 1st consider changing the fuel filter as if this partially blocked this too will reduce pressure.
If both of these are OK then also check the connections to the EGR valve, if either the vacuum pipe of electrical connection are damaged / corroded then the EGR can be on all time which certainly will hurt performance. Its also possible that its a fault with the EGR valve so its worth removing the valve and cleaning it out with brake cleaner, if it looks particularly clogged then replace it.
If this is OK then check the small vacuum lines to the turbo and its connected control solenoid on the bulkhead, any cracks or leaks can give turbo issues and its best to have the boost pressure measured actually measured with a boost gauge to check that the turbo is healthy and that the sensor is reading correctly
If its a variable vane turbo (they’ll be an actuator on the turbo body - but not a wastegate) then check its vacuum pipework as above and check the connections to the diaphragm / solenoid valve
Also worth checking that the glow-plug relay is switching off as they can stick on and leave the glow plugs also on - on some cars this can force it into limp home
Also worth considering a bottle of injector cleaner into the tank as a clogged injector nozzle will reduce power and give poor combustion - the next stage on from this is to remove all the injectors and have them ultrasonically cleaned and flow checked
Also check all the high pressure hoses post turbo/s for any split hoses or cracked metal pipes, also check the ends of the intercooler as its not unheard of to pop the end caps off under high boost.
If the above are all OK then try checking for airleaks after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and leans the engine out causing rough running. As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometime hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.
Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.
The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.
Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.
Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.
if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty
I'd also suggest inspecting the throttle pedal sensor for corroded contacts and damaged wiring
and finally its worth doing a compression test on all cylinders just to ensure the that the base engine is OK
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Thank you Elty!! That is very much appreciated, I will work my way through the list. :thumb2:thumb2
I have just had a look at the starting issue. Checked and cleaned all the earth connections in the engine bay. Removed the glow plug rail and gave that a good clean. Checked the glow plugs with a multi meter and they are all between 0.9 and 1.2 ohm, which should mean that they are serviceable. I also cleaned the battery terminals and the connectors. Hopefully this solves that problem.
I have just had a look at the starting issue. Checked and cleaned all the earth connections in the engine bay. Removed the glow plug rail and gave that a good clean. Checked the glow plugs with a multi meter and they are all between 0.9 and 1.2 ohm, which should mean that they are serviceable. I also cleaned the battery terminals and the connectors. Hopefully this solves that problem.
terranosaurusdoug
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It's just because the turbo isn't boosting surely??
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Not sure if it is the turbo, terranosaurusdoug. The ‘normal’ signs of a failed turbo are not there. It is purely slow (none) acceleration at low speed, low (ish) rpm and when on an incline. Take one of these three away and she runs fine. No issues with acceleration in general, the 2.8 has never been the quickest
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I did a compression test today and it is shit, so head is coming off, gaskets ordered, oil injected did not make any difference so valves I guess, Rick
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Rick, please keep us up to date!
Have you got a recommendation for a good compression tester? I haven’t got one but also don’t really want to spend a kings ransom on one.
Have you got a recommendation for a good compression tester? I haven’t got one but also don’t really want to spend a kings ransom on one.
Banshee
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On Mr Torquewrench's engine?
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No Zac, not on my engine. I wish! Would save me buying a compression tester.
It seems that Rick and I have the same performance issues on our Patrols.
Thank you Zac for changing the name of the thread!
It seems that Rick and I have the same performance issues on our Patrols.
Thank you Zac for changing the name of the thread!
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Cheap as chips, old glow plug, old high side refrigeration gauge (oil filled), charging port adaptors, short bit of 1/4 copper tube, I had all this laying around but should not cost more than £20 to buy the lot new, then just drill out the glow plug, (not ceramic type) and hard solder together, I will try and take some picks of the bits you need, Rick
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In case you cannot find the info, at 200 revs you should see 440 psi, I really did not need a gauge as at 200 revs I could hold my thumb over the pipe I had connected, now I know from experience that my thumb can hold almost 200 psi, so really cheap method fit the drilled out glow plug and get someone to spin it over,, if you can hold your thumb on it then it is like mine shagged, try it again after injecting 10ml oil if it improves then rings if not valves, Rick
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No Zac, not on my engine. I wish! Would save me buying a compression tester.
It seems that Rick and I have the same performance issues on our Patrols.
Thank you Zac for changing the name of the thread!
I have a compression testing kit you are welcome to borrow.
Don't know if you ever venture over my way with work,but i could always drop at Banshee's the next time I'm there.
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Thank you Rick, very useful info. Never done a compression test before so it is a bit of a learning curve. Jet engines don’t need them.
After posting yesterday I had a quick look online. I found this compression tester on amazon.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mekanik-Di...ocphy=1007192&hvtargid=pla-716487996446&psc=1
After posting yesterday I had a quick look online. I found this compression tester on amazon.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mekanik-Di...ocphy=1007192&hvtargid=pla-716487996446&psc=1
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
