Fault codes help

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clivvy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2009
Messages
6,918
eyup, finally got the fault codes today, figured i may as well considering I cant drive the mav now!

ok, so I have three codes, they are:

12 - mass air flow - I have just changed it to another used one that looks ok and cleaned the conenctors.

18 - fuel quantity adjuster/position sensor

47 - crankshaft position

ok, so 18 and 47, can anyone advise where I should go from here? I deally I need to be able to fix it myself!
 
eyup, finally got the fault codes today, figured i may as well considering I cant drive the mav now!

ok, so I have three codes, they are:

12 - mass air flow - I have just changed it to another used one that looks ok and cleaned the conenctors.

18 - fuel quantity adjuster/position sensor

47 - crankshaft position

ok, so 18 and 47, can anyone advise where I should go from here? I deally I need to be able to fix it myself!

Have you got the codes after replacing air mass or before?

The air mass will tell the ecu quantity of air in to engine and adjust the fuel injection quantity accordingly via the adjuster usually from a commencement of injection injector, the one with the wires coming out of it/ possible in or on pump

Have you any running problems?
 
Have you got the codes after replacing air mass or before?

The air mass will tell the ecu quantity of air in to engine and adjust the fuel injection quantity accordingly via the adjuster usually from a commencement of injection injector, the one with the wires coming out of it/ possible in or on pump

Have you any running problems?

hi mate, these are AFTER fitting air mass sesnor BUT car hasnt been started, because I cant start it! Running problems yes, I had intermittent "hunting" of revs, and random stalling, usually at idle, other than that, all good, drives goo dover 25oorpm, cant see much or any smoke, just throws a bti out at start up, but nto while idling. my non start problem is one othe rissu i need to fix, so ignition switch, start motor (which is new i think) or wiring.
 
hi mate, these are AFTER fitting air mass sesnor BUT car hasnt been started, because I cant start it! Running problems yes, I had intermittent "hunting" of revs, and random stalling, usually at idle, other than that, all good, drives goo dover 25oorpm, cant see much or any smoke, just throws a bti out at start up, but nto while idling. my non start problem is one othe rissu i need to fix, so ignition switch, start motor (which is new i think) or wiring.


Try download section

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/links.htm

Is it turning over?I would sort out starting/turning over problem first, if you got new starter check wiring and feed to starter solenoid, check earth strap
 
Try download section

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/links.htm

Is it turning over?

well, when it does work, it does turn over and start. The first issue is actually starting it. I replaced the ignition switch with another used one off ebay, the problem is the same. It MIGHT be the start motor, but that is new, certainly looks new, so all I can think is buy a brand new switch, and check all wiring before buying a new starter?
 
well, when it does work, it does turn over and start. The first issue is actually starting it. I replaced the ignition switch with another used one off ebay, the problem is the same. It MIGHT be the start motor, but that is new, certainly looks new, so all I can think is buy a brand new switch, and check all wiring before buying a new starter?

i can't c it being the switch sounds like starter does it just click when u try and start it or does nothing happen.if u can get somebody to turn the key and give the starter a crack with a hammer c if it starts? check for power at the starter witha test light if u have one
 
i can't c it being the switch sounds like starter does it just click when u try and start it or does nothing happen.if u can get somebody to turn the key and give the starter a crack with a hammer c if it starts? check for power at the starter witha test light if u have one



when i rung my mech, he said starter, i am only reluctant because i think its new, or reconditioned. What happens is I turn the key, and you can hear the starter "click", then nothing. Before I replaced the ignition switch, it would almost always start if I turned the key SLOWLY, but since I replaced it, it just seems to be more random that it starts. the old ignition switch i took out was all brown and knackered. so is the hammer test a good way to test if the start is working correctly, or is there something else i can do to test it? i dont have a test light :(

one poitn to mention is that I havent fitted the starter, the guy I bought it off fitted it, because he had the same issue, he said that when he fitted the starter, the problem seemed to go away, and thats probably true because for a while, it was perfect. then it gradually and slowly got worse.
 
when i rung my mech, he said starter, i am only reluctant because i think its new, or reconditioned. What happens is I turn the key, and you can hear the starter "click", then nothing. Before I replaced the ignition switch, it would almost always start if I turned the key SLOWLY, but since I replaced it, it just seems to be more random that it starts. the old ignition switch i took out was all brown and knackered. so is the hammer test a good way to test if the start is working correctly, or is there something else i can do to test it? i dont have a test light :(

one poitn to mention is that I havent fitted the starter, the guy I bought it off fitted it, because he had the same issue, he said that when he fitted the starter, the problem seemed to go away, and thats probably true because for a while, it was perfect. then it gradually and slowly got worse.

How good is the new switch? new? secondhand?
Get some one to turn over key and give the starter motor a tap, if turns over = sticky starter.
If not proplem with wiring/earth/main cable (if battery OK and charged)
 
How good is the new switch? new? secondhand?
Get some one to turn over key and give the starter motor a tap, if turns over = sticky starter.
If not proplem with wiring/earth/main cable (if battery OK and charged)

The switch is a used one off a newer Terrano with less miles, it look very clean but I am not discounting it being faulty still. I see that I really need to test the starter, so will do that shortly and let you know. Where about on the starter should I tap, and how hard?
 
The switch is a used one off a newer Terrano with less miles, it look very clean but I am not discounting it being faulty still. I see that I really need to test the starter, so will do that shortly and let you know. Where about on the starter should I tap, and how hard?

as you look at the engine its on your left might be better with a big metal bar as you wan't get a hammer in just tap it like you were tapping small nails like panel pins
 
as you look at the engine its on your left might be better with a big metal bar as you wan't get a hammer in just tap it like you were tapping small nails like panel pins

gotcha, will use my crow bar, i think that long enough
 
ok guys, I know you are all probably out laning etc like I should be :( but I had a look at my starter issue today. so my other half turns the key, I tap the starter, nothing. not sure how hard to tap so I tried various levels, nothing. BUT, I noticed something. When the key is in ignition, with lights on dash, I can hear an electrical "sound" coming from either the starter area, or the area where the negative and positive wires cross, that area. When th ekey is turned, that noise stops (if car doesnt start and key is let go, it starts again)...so, with that new finding, any ideas??!! hope you can help, starting to feel like I am getting somewhere, and nowhere at the same time!

//just thought. when "tapping" the starter, shoudl i be doing a single tap, or several taps untill it starts? i am unsure about the timing of the turning of the key and tapping of the starter
 
By tapping starter or hitting, it depends on you, your just finding out if the starter is sticking, but this dose not always work!
Its going down the check wiring route and make sure the wires haven't chaffed on them selfs or body, sounds like you may need some hands on help there,if i was closer i would pop a round.
 
By tapping starter or hitting, it depends on you, your just finding out if the starter is sticking, but this dose not always work!
Its going down the check wiring route and make sure the wires haven't chaffed on them selfs or body, sounds like you may need some hands on help there,if i was closer i would pop a round.

cheers Dino!

well, I investigated some more, i AM STARTING TO think wiring. The reaosn why is this. I checked the positive cable, and noted that it wasnt fully in the clamp. The clamp is one of those where you push the whole wire into a little tube, and tighten two screws on top. Well, this one isnt big enough for the wire, and the wire wasnt all the way through. I went to Motosave and Halfords, and they sold the same clamps, and there no way its big enough! So now if anything I need a new positive clamp! And lIke I say earlier, theres that weird sound emminating from the wiring when the key is in the ignition and on, when you turn it, it stops!
 
cheers Dino!

well, I investigated some more, i AM STARTING TO think wiring. The reaosn why is this. I checked the positive cable, and noted that it wasnt fully in the clamp. The clamp is one of those where you push the whole wire into a little tube, and tighten two screws on top. Well, this one isnt big enough for the wire, and the wire wasnt all the way through. I went to Motosave and Halfords, and they sold the same clamps, and there no way its big enough! So now if anything I need a new positive clamp! And lIke I say earlier, theres that weird sound emminating from the wiring when the key is in the ignition and on, when you turn it, it stops!

Can you elaborate on the noise, is it a relay type clicking or a lights on buzzing noise, or strangling cat type noise
 
As you are doing check the battery connection. These trucks are well known for cracking the lugs and this causes starting problems.

If you can do it without touching anything else metal with it put a spanner or screwdriver across the two big terminals on the solenoid (where the wires attach to the starter) if it still doesn't turn over properly then you can discount any problems with the ignition switch and the solenoid itself. Just short the contacts quickly to start with pe prepared to pull the spanner/screwdriver off as it may well micro wled itslf to the studs with the heat if the engine does turn over. Good access can be had by taking the wheel off and going in from the side having removed the rubber arch linner.
 
when i rung my mech, he said starter, i am only reluctant because i think its new, or reconditioned. What happens is I turn the key, and you can hear the starter "click", then nothing. Before I replaced the ignition switch, it would almost always start if I turned the key SLOWLY, but since I replaced it, it just seems to be more random that it starts. the old ignition switch i took out was all brown and knackered. so is the hammer test a good way to test if the start is working correctly, or is there something else i can do to test it? i dont have a test light :(

one poitn to mention is that I havent fitted the starter, the guy I bought it off fitted it, because he had the same issue, he said that when he fitted the starter, the problem seemed to go away, and thats probably true because for a while, it was perfect. then it gradually and slowly got worse.

i had the same problems, it turned out to be a fractured power lead from battery to starter, mind was ridged and the vibration from engine caused it to break.
 
Can you elaborate on the noise, is it a relay type clicking or a lights on buzzing noise, or strangling cat type noise

it stricky, ok, its more a constant sort of buzzing noise, very low volume.
 
i had the same problems, it turned out to be a fractured power lead from battery to starter, mind was ridged and the vibration from engine caused it to break.

i am going to see if a new clamp helps, if not, then will see if I can buy a new positive lead, i just cant see if its broken or not.

just thought, what size are out positive cables? i am thinking 11mm, but my clamp is for an 8mm i think?
 
i am going to see if a new clamp helps, if not, then will see if I can buy a new positive lead, i just cant see if its broken or not.

just thought, what size are out positive cables? i am thinking 11mm, but my clamp is for an 8mm i think?

Bigger the better, the starter takes a lot of load from battery when cold, but you need to get a clamp to fit, if these a local auto electrical out let then they should be able to supple and or make a lead
 

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