Engine rebuild and power mods

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Sorry Pete think you are stuck with Zexel injectors, the bosch head is a different part No as there are differences tween the injectors and seats etc, but doubt there is any performance differences as they are both pintle type, Rick
 
Just been reading up on the subject Rick. You are right ofcourse but, I've got a bosch head :D
Next thing I need is 4 bosch injectors :augie
 
I have a set but of the later version with the No 1 wired, they are spares for Mrs motor so will not be selling unless SWMBO agrees, Rick
 
Don't mess with SWMBO :lol
I've got one up the scrap yard I've been , erm, keeping an eye on :sly:sly
 
Air I can get plenty I hope as my turbo has a better compressor wheel. Cam should allow that air to get in better/quicker . Pump I can tweak a little bit on timing but I'm not replacing elements . By the time I stick some LPG in the mix there'll be a big enough bang me thinks :D
 
Air I can get plenty I hope as my turbo has a better compressor wheel. Cam should allow that air to get in better/quicker . Pump I can tweak a little bit on timing but I'm not replacing elements . By the time I stick some LPG in the mix there'll be a big enough bang me thinks :D

Pump you can up the fuel like I have on my Patrol, timing not too much without other control, no experience of additional LPG but you have, so good on that one, get it steaming Rick
 
Air I can get plenty I hope as my turbo has a better compressor wheel. Cam should allow that air to get in better/quicker . Pump I can tweak a little bit on timing but I'm not replacing elements . By the time I stick some LPG in the mix there'll be a big enough bang me thinks :D

Compressor wheel yeh, I spoke to a turbo guy who said he could modify my turbo. He said he could fit a bigger compression wheel, obviously need to do work to accommodate it, and fit an improved turbine/hot side wheel that was more efficient but leave it same size so it still spins up at lowish revs. I will get it done in the future but its way down the list of things to do and glue :D
 
Compressor wheel yeh, I spoke to a turbo guy who said he could modify my turbo. He said he could fit a bigger compression wheel, obviously need to do work to accommodate it, and fit an improved turbine/hot side wheel that was more efficient but leave it same size so it still spins up at lowish revs. I will get it done in the future but its way down the list of things to do and glue :D
I did a write up on here somewhere on the turbo build . Who knows where though, that search button is my nemesis :doh
 
Today I have been mainly checking my work :augie as Rick rightly cuffed my ear regarding my ring gaps :eek:
Oiked all the pistons out again , took the rings off and fiddled about with my feelers :lol
Happy to say job done and another lesson learned. As it happened they were all within range bar one No2 ring which was so close to the minimum gap I decided I'd give it a quick file just to be safe :thumbs
I used one of my old pistons to set the ring true, measure top and bottom and could decern no difference.

Next up was to put them all back in and re torque it all. Using my new piston ring pliers was a delight :D
Sump time at last. Damn thing took ages to clean up but here it is in mid gloop removal :eek:

You'd think the sump would be an easy task but oh no. See that little 10mm bolt in there, that's on of those half a flat each way round open end spanner moments :( I could find no way round it. Especially as I'd done up the sump once, only to realise the gearbox hockey stick thingy wouldn't fit in :doh

I won in the end though :D

There she blows :clap hope that's the last time it's upside down for a while ;)

Next will be more ancillaries to clean, repair and bolt on :beer
 
Looking good Pete, grand job and bore wear is clearly negligible, as it should be if oil and filter changed regularly, 500k plus for these engines if looked after, Rick
 
Continued the re-assembly this evening.
Remembered the broken bits too :eek: 2 fan bolts had sheared off in the viscous thingy .
First one I managed to get a pair of grips onto the back of the bolt and extract it that way. The other though was not having it. So I had to drill the bugger out from the long end :confused:
Filled the bolt flat and centre punched it.

Drilled it out and re-tapped

Eventually it yeilded and on it went. Again much cleaning of old gasket .
Also refitted the dipstick, vac pipes and crank sensor.

Last thing today, I made a start on the valves . Sheesh it's a tdious task. After an hour of hand warming with my valve sucker tool I designed an alternative :naughty
Forwards and backwards, up and down, forwards and backwards repeat :surrender
This IS going to take some time

Onwards :cool:
 
If you are going to grind valves that method then dispense with the sucker and put the drill on the valve stem slow speed and plenty of back and forth, push the valve out to re apply past, make sure you wash the entire head well when done, Rick
 
If you are going to grind valves that method then dispense with the sucker and put the drill on the valve stem slow speed and plenty of back and forth, push the valve out to re apply past, make sure you wash the entire head well when done, Rick
Good thinking :thumbs
The exhaust valves are quite pitted unfortunately so will need quite some grinding :eek:
 
If the valves are pitted then a tip is to place some fine emery paper on the seat and grind them onto that replacing the paper very regularly, Rick
 
Do not forget that if the seat width becomes too big then the valve is liable to leak as increasing the surface area reduces the contact pressure, not sure what the manual says but usually around 1.5mm max Rick
 

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