Elty001's terrano project

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

Yes it was yourself that suggested doing them like that:thumb2
Thanks for the idea!!!

Cheers glad to be of service.

Noticed you changed the moved rear light clusters, is there a story there?

Also can see a bump on new bumper during painting. Is it the trailer socket?

Were you thinking of a rear winch, would that bumper handle one?

 

[elty001]

Cheers glad to be of service.

Noticed you changed the moved rear light clusters, is there a story there?

Also can see a bump on new bumper during painting. Is it the trailer socket?

Were you thinking of a rear winch, would that bumper handle one?

Yep that's the trailer socket

No plans yet for a rear winch, :naughty.
Would have to make another bumper for that mod.

 

[jims-terrano]

That has got to be the best looking modified bumper that Ive seen:thumbs

How do you find the LED rear lights? Had several bulbs that all end up with an LED flickering.

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

That has got to be the best looking modified bumper that Ive seen:thumbs

How do you find the LED rear lights? Had several bulbs that all end up with an LED flickering.

isnt there an issue with leds as first lights on a vehicle that wasnt built with them due to load, resistance but then fine on extra sets or trailers?l

 

[elty001]

I had one go dim on me.
Checked all the connections and they where good.
Turned out to be a corroded wire in the original loom.
Cut it back to just behind the rear seats and put in a new length of wire and so far so good.
I also re routed the loom so it's all up inside the car so hopefully will last a bit longer.

 

[elty001]

isnt there an issue with leds as first lights on a vehicle that wasnt built with them due to load, resistance but then fine on extra sets or trailers?l

Yeah some will require a resister but I went for these as they have one built in to the unit.

 

[elty001]

The last and final mod to date are the custom made heavy duty tie rods.


Field test at the weekend on some local lanes.

 

[solarman216]

I have to say I do not like them, did not like what I saw when I fitted them for Alex and after seeing Pete's drop off and examining the parts am even more convinced they are bad news, the weak point is the bolt, the taper in the arm has been bored out to parallel then due to constraints with the joint design a spacer tube is inserted so the bolt does not wobble about, and here is the problem, the original ball with the taper was much stronger at this crucial point, now weakened by the undersized bolt, in Pete's case it worked lose but I can see the bolt breaking, due to there not being enough up/down movement in the joint itself, the reducer washers on Pete's had signs of wear because at full droop etc the arm fouled the reduced part of the washer, this imparts a bending moment on the bolt, not good, On Alex's truck I put those in the lathe and reduced the diameter to the minimum but still fouled on droop, just my humble opinion, I know they have been used for years on race/rally cars without problem but on a 4 X 4 with high articulation and all that off road throws at it I would not fit them to my truck, Rick

 

[elty001]

Not a fan then Rick:lol
initial fitting and testing of these proved there where no issues with the rod ends binding when on full droop and compression.
I removed my upper bump stop to let the suspension drop to its absolute max travel.
the rod ends are a 5/8 thread and so are the taper pins that pass through the balls machined to the same taper as the standard balljoints,castle nutted with split pins same as standard.
road driving feels good with more responsive,positive handling.
As i said a bit of field testing at the weekend to see how they fair in the rough.

 

[Banshee]

I have to say I do not like them, did not like what I saw when I fitted them for Alex and after seeing Pete's drop off and examining the parts am even more convinced they are bad news, the weak point is the bolt, the taper in the arm has been bored out to parallel then due to constraints with the joint design a spacer tube is inserted so the bolt does not wobble about, and here is the problem, the original ball with the taper was much stronger at this crucial point, now weakened by the undersized bolt, in Pete's case it worked lose but I can see the bolt breaking, due to there not being enough up/down movement in the joint itself, the reducer washers on Pete's had signs of wear because at full droop etc the arm fouled the reduced part of the washer, this imparts a bending moment on the bolt, not good, On Alex's truck I put those in the lathe and reduced the diameter to the minimum but still fouled on droop, just my humble opinion, I know they have been used for years on race/rally cars without problem but on a 4 X 4 with high articulation and all that off road throws at it I would not fit them to my truck, Rick

I think you didn't examine my setup as carefully as Pete's :naughty

Mine has been machined a little better than that although based on the mishap Pete had the weekend I'm in the process of a Phase 2 design to make it ever safer :naughty

 

[elty001]

I've always had the bolt through the Draglink double nutted. Plain nut tightened up then a nyloc to keep it all in place.
Castle nut and split pin is way I think.

 

[makeitfit]

The one on my truck was very definitely my fault. I rushed the truck out there for the weekend. As it turned out the rose joint nut and bolts simply hadn't been torqued up :doh My fault plain and simple.
As regards the insert Rick mentioned, on mine that was a tapered insert and had not worn as first thought. Remember also this mod I did about 6 years ago.
The newer versions have a bigger bolt and rose joint as supplied to Alex and others,and no longer keep the tappered hole in the drag link.
The trouble with Alex's was I'm pretty sure, that he's got it so far wound up that there was a bind point.
I have way more flex than any terrano I know still on IFS and have had no issues. (well except Sunday :lol)
All the above stated , I have learned a bit more after the misshap. My new version will be using Johnny Joints ( no not that Zac :augie). A lot more expensive but will tolerate a much wider angle of use without missalignment washers.
Every day's a learning day :question

 

[elty001]

Always a school day when trying out new mods:thumb2
We would never learn anything if we don't try.

 

[jims-terrano]

isnt there an issue with leds as first lights on a vehicle that wasnt built with them due to load, resistance but then fine on extra sets or trailers?l

Cant imagine it makes much difference unless it has canbus which ours dont. Indicators might not have enough load unless there is a beefy resistor.

 

[elty001]

Cant imagine it makes much difference unless it has canbus which ours dont. Indicators might not have enough load unless there is a beefy resistor.

I tried an old led indicator with no resistor and it had the fast flash like when a bulb is out as the voltage draw of the leds is so small .

 

[solarman216]

I accept your arguments and as Pete says he has had them a while with no issues, just not for me, Rick

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

I tried an old led indicator with no resistor and it had the fast flash like when a bulb is out as the voltage draw of the leds is so small .

That's quite interesting that is

 

[makeitfit]

You can get correct flasher relays that will work with LED blubs

 

[elty001]

You can get correct flasher relays that will work with LED blubs

yeah i looked at those but i opted to buy a unit with built in resistor so just plug and play:thumb2

 

[zippy656]

Don't start me on led lights on trailers ( caravans ) they are or can be a nightmare !!!