Doors auto locking

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I would do the battery clamp just to eliminate it.
Could be a crack that is not visible but enough to cause the voltage to drop when starting.
Have you tried running the jump lead from the live to the starter just to eliminate that.
 
I would do the battery clamp just to eliminate it.
Could be a crack that is not visible but enough to cause the voltage to drop when starting.
Have you tried running the jump lead from the live to the starter just to eliminate that.

Been thinking about the clamp & i'm going to replace it if nothing else but to poss eliminate it totally. No I haven't tried running a jump lead from the battery to starter yet due to it starting so well but think I will give that a try:thumbs
 
How about replacing the car, I happen to know of a 05 plate terrano that starts without locking the occupants inside;)
 
Jim i've got that wound up about this it has crossed my mind quite a few times:eek::eek:

What would be the best sort of clamp to get as there are a couple of different ones ie http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251341927507?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370802718934?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT just that i'll have to attach the 2 smaller wires onto the clamp but also a thick cable to my second fuse box i've fitted (disconnected at min) & the big power cable for my amp
 
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Halfrauds do a really nice one, I used it on my car when the clamp failed, and I was so impressed, I used it again on the second battery.

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs-wiper-blades-batteries/car-battery-chargers/halfords-battery-terminal-positive-4-way-connector

It should be perfect for all your wires, with out having to put rings teminals on the ends.

Cheers Clive:thumbs just been to halfrauds & bought one & it was £1 cheaper instore. The cable for my amp just fits into one of the side posts (just few) so the other side post i'll be able to fit the 2 smaller factory wires into & that leaves the big opening for the big cable to go down to the starter & i'll just use one of the bolts to hold the ring terminal in place for the second fuse box:thumb2 As the main battery cable is crimped onto the old alloy clamp, I think i'll just cut off the clamp & leave the crimp part in place if I can for a good contact. Hopefully the weather will be ok tomorrow to get it done:augie
 
Another update, Changed the battery terminal today but the clamp wouldn't hold the power cable for the starter as the cable just pulled straight out:doh so put the power cable for the extra fuse box in the same location on the terminal & it clamped down nice & tight (few) as a bonus my charging rate on the battery has went up to 14.38v. Started it up & the doors locked:doh:doh I ran a jump lead from the starter to the battery (sure it was making contact on the starter) & the doors locked again so I think the power cable to the starter must be fine so am really stuck now on what it could be causing this problem:(:( & don't really want to have to take the truck to an auto election as it'll cost a fortune:doh
 
At a guess I'd say this problem is may be related to a poor earth connection.
Put a DVM between the battery -VE terminal and the engine block and check for close to zero volts WHILE cranking the engine.
Then check other major earth points in a similar fashion, none should rise significantly above zero volts.
 
I know when I first got the truck the fob was set to first press of the unlock button just opened the drivers door & second press unlocked everything but changed that to a single press of the unlock button to open all doors
Can't help with your problem, but you've answered one for me. Thanks.
 
Here's one you might not have tried, I tried this when I was trying to diagnose central locking issues with my Maverick

Put the key in the ignition and turn to position II, while key is in that position, lock and unlock the doors with the drivers door lock manually, then turn the ignition off.

Remove the key re insert and start the engine

Try that mate , this is supposed to reset the IMMU controller supposedly :nenau
 
Another good check to do is to turn your interior light on check each door switch at a time making sure the interior light goes off when depressd by hand as I'm sure this has been the cause
 
At a guess I'd say this problem is may be related to a poor earth connection.
Put a DVM between the battery -VE terminal and the engine block and check for close to zero volts WHILE cranking the engine.
Then check other major earth points in a similar fashion, none should rise significantly above zero volts.

Just cleaned up the main earth strap from the battery which go's to the inner wing then to the engine & then cleaned up the earth next to it that go's from inner wing to engine but the bolt on the inner wing sheared off:doh so repositioned it onto where the main earth strap bolts to the body. I haven't touched the earth strap from the alternator bracket as i'm 100% sure that bolt will also shear off but a few months ago I added another earth strap to the alternator bracket which is easy twice the size of the factory one:augie
It's to dark & foggy to check the earth's with a multimeter now but will tomorrow but I would have thought you would get a zero reading whilst cranking the engine:confused:
 
Here's one you might not have tried, I tried this when I was trying to diagnose central locking issues with my Maverick

Put the key in the ignition and turn to position II, while key is in that position, lock and unlock the doors with the drivers door lock manually, then turn the ignition off.

Remove the key re insert and start the engine

Try that mate , this is supposed to reset the IMMU controller supposedly :nenau

I'll give that a try:thumbs take it's just flick the door button or do I need to use the spare key in the door lock ?
All of the door switches are good:clap
 
Just cleaned up the main earth strap from the battery which go's to the inner wing then to the engine & then cleaned up the earth next to it that go's from inner wing to engine but the bolt on the inner wing sheared off:doh so repositioned it onto where the main earth strap bolts to the body. I haven't touched the earth strap from the alternator bracket as i'm 100% sure that bolt will also shear off but a few months ago I added another earth strap to the alternator bracket which is easy twice the size of the factory one:augie
It's to dark & foggy to check the earth's with a multimeter now but will tomorrow but I would have thought you would get a zero reading whilst cranking the engine:confused:

If you check with the ohms setting, you should get zero, but at the currents used to start even the tiniest of resistance readings could cause volt drops. The problem is, most multi-meters are not capable of reading accurately to that sort of tine resistance.

If on the other hand, you set the meter to voltage, and connect one lead to the engine, and a second to the body, if there is a resistance, the current drawn by the starter motor will show up as a readable voltage across the earth lead.

Having said that, I would be looking at Earths relating to the central locking unit and ECU, rather than the engine, as you have said the car is cranking fine so less likely to be the main earths.

I did this list for Alex of other earth points, but it is not compleate. http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=277859&postcount=22

Finding these earths are fun from the pictures though, but maybe you will have more luck locating them.

From a quick look, these would be my starting point.

M846 Very likely N/S, possibly near Wiper Motor Page EL256
M845 Very likely N/S, possibly near Wiper Motor Page EL256
M33 Possible O/S Wing in front of fuse box. Page EL256
M754 Possible O/S Foot well, behind kick panel Page EL258
E222 Possible O/S of engine block Page EL227
E224 Possible O/S of engine block Page EL227
 
It's the drivers door internal lock or the power lock as it's called by nissan.
 
I'll give that a try:thumbs take it's just flick the door button or do I need to use the spare key in the door lock ?
All of the door switches are good:clap

Any key mate with a transponder paired to that cars immobiliser :thumb2 so spare or main key will be fine
 

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