Code 21

Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum

Help Support Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Sweety

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2013
Messages
3,604
Been having a few problems with the truck not wanting to rev past 3000rpm in 3rd & 4th gears & it feels as if it's being held back yet it's fine in 1st & 2nd gear:doh just read the codes & am getting code 21 fuel injection timing solenoid/injector lift sensor lift malfunction. Looking at the chart it looks as if there could be a few causes for this code:doh
 
Going to check to see what the ohm's reading is once it stops raining but if it is No1 injector i'm a little shocked it's only lasted 58K
 
Right just checked the ohm's on the plug from No1 injector & got 112ohm's is that about right for a fully working injector ? if so what do I check now:nenau
 
Right just checked the ohm's on the plug from No1 injector & got 112ohm's is that about right for a fully working injector ? if so what do I check now:nenau

look up on the download manual under section ec429 onwards . it tells you how and what to check
 
look up on the download manual under section ec429 onwards . it tells you how and what to check

Cheers:thumbs from the manual it says the resistance should be aprox 105 Ohms at 25'c but it's only 13'c outside & the engine is at full running temp so not sure if that makes much difference or not that I got a reading of 112 Ohms
 
i had the code 21 on mine and that was due to air in the fuel system which it does say can cause that code in the manual as well
 
Bit more info just checked the Ohms of the crank position sensor & got a reading of 1012 Ohms now in the manual it states is should be 900 Ohms as 25'c so not sure which of the 2 is causing the problem No1 injector or the crank sensor. Is there anything else I should be checking:nenau TBH this has got me on a real downer & got me thinking of part ex the bloody thing in as don't have the money to just change things hoping I may fix it:doh
 
i had the code 21 on mine and that was due to air in the fuel system which it does say can cause that code in the manual as well

Got a new fuel filter coming tomorrow as never changed it yet & will have to try & find a link on here to see where I can get some clear pipe from to check for air in the fuel:augie the steel fuel pipes aren't in the best of condition TBH but the has been no signs of the pin holes as the pipes are all bone dry & only run the truck on diesel:augie
 
Now to confuse things more just rechecked the ohms readings now the engine has cooled down (inlet manifold just warm) & got 103 ohms for the injector & 980 ohms from the cranksensor:confused:
 
those readings are within range, I think you are getting control sleeve error due to air in the fuel, or possibly a bad connection, Rick
 
Now to confuse things more just rechecked the ohms readings now the engine has cooled down (inlet manifold just warm) & got 103 ohms for the injector & 980 ohms from the cranksensor:confused:
Those readings sound fine, they are pretty much consistent with a drop from operating temperature to ambient(ish).
It might be worth noting that although the coil on the No1 inj. checks out ok, this does not guarantee the needle lift sensor is working as it should. You might try disconnecting it and see if there is any change?
The only sure way to tell is to check the NLS output with an oscilloscope.

If the crank sensor where faulty, the engine would likely be difficult to start, especially when hot. So, a faulty CKP is low on the list of culprits.
 
those readings are within range, I think you are getting control sleeve error due to air in the fuel, or possibly a bad connection, Rick
Good point Rick, could also be low IP case pressure not allowing the control sleeve to reach its full extent.
There is a spring and ball bearing arrangement that regulates the internal pressure within the IP, the springs have been known to become weak and allow to much fuel to bleed by. Dirt around the valve seat would also have a similar result.
 
Good point Rick, could also be low IP case pressure not allowing the control sleeve to reach its full extent.
There is a spring and ball bearing arrangement that regulates the internal pressure within the IP, the springs have been known to become weak and allow to much fuel to bleed by. Dirt around the valve seat would also have a similar result.

Would this IP problem happen on a 58K motor tho:nenau if I disconnect No1 injector should I get a drop in power & a load of black smoke ?
 
I wouldn't have thought mileage will have a bearing on it. Different trucks, different driving manners ect :)
 
Would this IP problem happen on a 58K motor tho:nenau if I disconnect No1 injector should I get a drop in power & a load of black smoke ?
Certainly it would be more expected on a higher mileage vehicle, however dirt or similar could still be a possibility.
The control sleeve relies on the internal case pressure to operate, and if the IP case pressure where low, then running out of puff at ~3000 rpm might suggest the control sleeve is not achieving full travel.
As Rick suggested, this could equally be caused by a bad electrical connection, earth etc. There are some quite high currents involved in this control system, so a marginal electrical connection is also a prime suspect.
I suggest you use a reasonably heavy load to check continuity, as a DVM does not draw enough current to stress low resistance connections. A 50W headlamp bulb would do.

I don't own a 2.7, so I have not seen the result of disconnection the NLS, but if it makes little or no difference then it warrants closer investigation, otherwise it may be safe to assume it is operating ok.
 
Thanks again:thumb2 like I said earlier it revs hard & pulls fine in the first two gears just when you get into 3rd it don't want to know:augie hoping it's not the IP pump because it'll cost easy 1-2K up here to have that sorted out:doh i've given the No1 injector plug, crank sensor plug & all the others I noticed a good blast with WD40 in the hope if there is a dirty contact it might help matters
 
Right a little update, changed the fuel filter today & after a good test driving it's pulling very hard in all gears & will rev again after 3K & upto 4.5K (I won't rev it past that point) & no MIL light coming on:D When I bought the truck last year I think they changed the fuel filter put didn't pay much attention to what filter was on before I bought so they may have not changed it:augie so wonder if it might have been partly blocked & stopping the much needed fuel getting through & this has caused the problem:nenau I emptied the diesel out of the old filter into a pop bottle & you can see bits of waxy muck floating about but there is also a 1-2mm layer at the top which looks cloudy white which from memory is prob water & yes i've got a full tank of fuel:doh going to run the tank right down & drain the filter at this point & hopefully get any trapped water out of the system but I think it's getting to that time to replace the fuel lines:augie now can you legally replace the metal pipes from the tank to the bulkhead with rubber ones ?
 
Replacing with rubber seems common practice but it'll have to be correct type. It's a job on my to do list if I ever get some time along with the leak off pipes.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top