broken something

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clivvy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2009
Messages
6,918
hi guys,

only had the car about three weeks, so been doing this and that to it. Not driven much either, but I swapped the battery with my old one and all seemed ok. Been doing some work the last few weeks, this involved sorting a leak on the fuel lines. After fitting new clips and tightening, I went to try and start it up and it tried but spluttered out - classic dead battery. Charged the battery, refitted, no joy - just a click.

Tried to jump start it today, again just a click. Checked the terminals, connections to starter etc, all good (car was starting and running fine before). I may have killed the battery completely, because I left the doors open all day, which in turn left the interior lights on and the battery is well over 5 year old, despite being heavy duty it did go completely dead just before I scrapped my old maverick.

My battery charger showed it flat, but charged it up anyway, and the indicator suggests it is charged. I am currently charging up the original battery the car came with, but can anyone suggest anything I can try to help diagnose the issue?
 
There could poss be a dead cell on the battery you fitted it'll hold the volts ok but won't hold the amps which you need. I would try your other battery once it's been charged up first & if the truck starts up fine then you'll know the other battery is dead
 
What I would do, if you have a multimeter, connect it the lead posts of the battery, not the battery lead or the clamp, but the actual battery terminals, you could drill a small hole in the centre of each terminal, max say 15mm deep, and use a self tapper and connect the multimeter leads to the screw.

Measure the voltage, with nothing connected, then monitor it whilst trying to start it.

If the voltage drops below 9 volts, the battery is naff.
If the voltage hovers around 12 volts whilst you hear a click, then either the battery lead(s) is/are at fault or the starter motor, by moving the meter to different places, you should see how far you can find the 12 volts, which might then suggest a faulty starter motor, or solenoid.

Hope it helps.

best regards,

Rustic
 
will it start from jump leads ?

no, though I only tried with the flat battery (which as suggested could just be dead cells) but my jump leads looked a little worse for wear so I don't trust them either. just waiting for my spare battery to charge then I will try that and also use my multimeter to test (battery in that was flat as well, so that's the theme for today)
 
Had a dead battery the other week & wouldn't jump start of the Son's car as it's only a 1.3 so didn't have enough amps bit the bullet bought a new battery & it started first time. Hopefully it's just your battery but whilst it's off have a check of the battery clamps for cracks & if they are ok give the inside of the clamps a light clean with some wet & dry sand paper
 
Had a dead battery the other week & wouldn't jump start of the Son's car as it's only a 1.3 so didn't have enough amps bit the bullet bought a new battery & it started first time. Hopefully it's just your battery but whilst it's off have a check of the battery clamps for cracks & if they are ok give the inside of the clamps a light clean with some wet & dry sand paper

I hope it is the battery! I am still waiting for my spare battery to charge - its almost done, but I went out with my multimeter just now. Its measuring 12.33V, and when I turn the key to start the car (and hear the click) it drops to 11.44 (this range differs up or down). release the key and it jumps back to 12.whatever volts....
 
Hi, I had that same problem on my old partner van, the thick cable from the battery to the starter solenoid had a bad connection

I cleaned up the connections both ends and all was well.
The click is the solenoid making.
To be sure take a jump lead from the starter terminal to the live, just a touch on the live terminal will let you know. if that does not spin it then look at the starter
If the starter was jammed you would get a bigger volt drop
dave
 
You need to check the SG of each cell, I suspect you have a dud one. If the battery is of the open cell type it is possible to check each cell seperately with a mutimeter, each one should be at least 2V. Modern batteries seem to have a susceptibility to go down on one cell without warning.

When jump starting it pays to let the dud one soak up some charge for a min or two & the donor will need to be at least as big to stand any chance. If a cell is dud then this will take the charge away from the others & it may never start off jump leads. Substituting even a normally too small good battery will aid successful jump starts. The vehicle will run ok...until you want to restart it LOL.
 
ah right ok. The car I tried to jump start with is a 1.9 - I have jump started in the past ok, but I am suspicious the battery is dud.

I cant try out my spare battery yet, its fully charged, because there is a massive storm right outside, started just as I was about to swap the batteries.........
 
Battery problems

A new lead acid battery is around 12.67 volts when fully charged.

I have a volt meter in my cigarette lighter that I use to monitor battery condition.

It reads around 12.3 volts dropping to 11.5 when cranking. When charging it shows 13.4 volts or slightly more if the battery is discharged.

If you check your battery voltage after a light discharge such as putting your main beam on for 30 seconds it should still be in the 12.3 volts area after standing for a couple of minutes.

If you have a tyre / battery garage or a Halfords nearby they can test your battery with a modern tester usually free of charge and it will show up any problems.
 
A new lead acid battery is around 12.67 volts when fully charged.

I have a volt meter in my cigarette lighter that I use to monitor battery condition.

It reads around 12.3 volts dropping to 11.5 when cranking. When charging it shows 13.4 volts or slightly more if the battery is discharged.

If you check your battery voltage after a light discharge such as putting your main beam on for 30 seconds it should still be in the 12.3 volts area after standing for a couple of minutes.

If you have a tyre / battery garage or a Halfords nearby they can test your battery with a modern tester usually free of charge and it will show up any problems.

some good tips there, I will try those tomorrow (cant tonight, its a howling monsoon outside)
 
ok, did some messing about today and things aren't looking so good, what do you make of this?

Looking like dead starter to me. I have checked all cables, disconnected/reconnected and so on..

 
well, looking through that suggest repair starter motor.

I have been out trying to remove it, but for the life in me I cant get that top bolt loose. I don't recall having the issue the two times I have done this before, so no idea what I am doing wrong this time. I cant get leverage at all to snap the nut loose, has anyone got some tips for getting that top nut loose on the starter??
 
Can you link 2 spanners together (ring end on the bolt/nut, and the ring end of the second spanner hooked over open end of the first)? Or slide a bit of scaffolding bar/axle stand center over it?
 
Can you link 2 spanners together (ring end on the bolt/nut, and the ring end of the second spanner hooked over open end of the first)? Or slide a bit of scaffolding bar/axle stand center over it?

not sure about linking the spanners - I doubt it will be sturdy enough due to how tough the bolts are. No room for scaffold pole im afraid, barely enough room for my breaker bars.
 
that voltage Clive was that while turning the key to the start position and did the starter solenoid click? Rick
 
well, looking through that suggest repair starter motor.

I have been out trying to remove it, but for the life in me I cant get that top bolt loose. I don't recall having the issue the two times I have done this before, so no idea what I am doing wrong this time. I cant get leverage at all to snap the nut loose, has anyone got some tips for getting that top nut loose on the starter??

Found this comment from April 2008 from member ssteve...

think i got the top one with a 28" 1/2" drive ext bar with a u/j on the bottom end from under the bonnet , not a bad job really (45 mins at most, off and new one on)hardest bit was paying for new one £80 approx 8O
ssteve :wink:

Hope it helps.

best regards,
Rustic
 
A new lead acid battery is around 12.67 volts when fully charged.

I have a volt meter in my cigarette lighter that I use to monitor battery condition.

It reads around 12.3 volts dropping to 11.5 when cranking. When charging it shows 13.4 volts or slightly more if the battery is discharged.

If you check your battery voltage after a light discharge such as putting your main beam on for 30 seconds it should still be in the 12.3 volts area after standing for a couple of minutes.

If you have a tyre / battery garage or a Halfords nearby they can test your battery with a modern tester usually free of charge and it will show up any problems.

how come when I had my Vectra c my battery was reading 12.6 volts and it wouldn't start. but all the lights came on and they did'nt dim when trying to start . so I called green flag and they told me diesel engines need around 15 volts in a battery to turn it over . ? so I went and got a new battery and it started fine after that
 

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