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Had a check of the cooler yesterday after a run to the farm, could barely keep my fingers on the top of it there was so much heat coming through it, like a hot radiator :eek: Definitely a worthwhile mod, just need to try and find a fan thin enough to fit behind, either that or it looks like I'll be cutting a section out the grill to fit one in front...

There will be one somewhere mate, what's the max thickness it can be?
 
Barely got 30mm to play with bud, slimmest motorsport fan I've seen is 52mm
 
I have not read all through, but guess you are trying to cool your box oil down? so keep it simple, what about a SS plate heat exchanger, a shorl tube internal diam of your bottom rad hose could be cut in with flow and return pipes for the water side of the exchanger, with extended pipes in the tube you should get enough water flow courtesy of the engine water pump, just an idea, if you want further details I will do a couple of drawings, Rick
 
I have not read all through, but guess you are trying to cool your box oil down? so keep it simple, what about a SS plate heat exchanger, a shorl tube internal diam of your bottom rad hose could be cut in with flow and return pipes for the water side of the exchanger, with extended pipes in the tube you should get enough water flow courtesy of the engine water pump, just an idea, if you want further details I will do a couple of drawings, Rick

Already goes through the bottom of the rad Rick, cheers though :thumb2
 
Already goes through the bottom of the rad Rick, cheers though :thumb2

Think you missed the point, a plate heat exchanger can take more heat than your box can put out, it is all to do with exchange rates, the exchanger existing in your rad is nothing in comparison, the point is your rad at the bottom is almost always cold and this can be utilised with a Plate to keep your box as cool as you want, Rick
 
Think you missed the point, a plate heat exchanger can take more heat than your box can put out, it is all to do with exchange rates, the exchanger existing in your rad is nothing in comparison, the point is your rad at the bottom is almost always cold and this can be utilised with a Plate to keep your box as cool as you want, Rick

Tbh Rick I'm keen to get away from any link to water cooling, just takes one hole to bugger your box through mixing...

Once I fix a fan I'll remove the rad cooler from the equation.
 
Yeh but will it look like a twat?, would be a shame to ruin that nice original grille!

"Nissan" part is clipped on, it'll be fine, rather my truck was ready to meet what I have to throw at her (she already is, but I want to exceed that ;))
 
Should say Daemo and I have already cut sections out for the winch and the cooler :thumbs
 
Hi, do you have the workshop manual that you send me please?
Cheers
 
So been a while since I've done much on Bess but I finally fitted a swing away to my rear bumper :D

Made by the same folk that built the bumper and bolted straight into readymade captive nuts...










 
When I got my swing away arm many moons ago, they called me after placing my order telling me I'd be getting the 'new' version. (The one you have)

I didn't tho, I got the old version and it's a bit hopeless at times. :( I'm wondering if I could modify mine to work like yours? :nenau
 
So about time I updated this :augie

First up, the manual torque converter lockup switch.

So the RE4R03A autobox in the Trols is simply a HD version of the autobox in the Terranos (RE4R01A) so it's a 4 speed box, 3 plus overdrive, with torque converter lockup kicking in after overdrive.

TC lockup locks the torque converter into one and so gives you direct drive from the engine into the gearbox. Benefits are more efficiency (ie. lower revs) and less wastage (ie. less heat production).

Normally the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) automatically locks up the TC once you reach cruising speed and revs although only after you've hit 4th speed/overdrive.

The Trol lockup system is notorious for banging in and out of TC lock if you're on anything other than a slight hill. Also, as happened with mine, it is not uncommon for TC lock to suddenly stop working full stop.

My TC lock stopped working except on the very very odd occasion. Nobody is entirely sure why it happens but it seems to be TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) related, at least mine was - I disconnected my TPS, making the TCU go onto a default map based on rev counter and speed et voila! I got TC lock back, although the drive was not the best (changed up very very early).

So TPS was main suspect. I wasn't up for trying to track down a 24v TPS from my parts websites, particularly since the existing TPS worked fine for everything else... so time for a mod I had planned to do at some point anyway! :D


Starting point is the following circuit diagram by a guy called Chaz. Pin numbers are for a Y61 Trol but the same diagram works for a Y60 as well (P/N pin is 19 whilst the TC lock pin is 22). It is a masterpiece - includes a safety cut out as soon as you press the brake pedal, and disconnects it if you are in Park or Neutral (going into TC lock in either of those is a BAD idea)

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You need 4 five point relays like this.

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Get a couple of switches and a relay box, and labels, lots and lots of labels so you don't lose track!:lol

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You'll see I just went for a standard momentary carling switch instead of a foot switch. By having one with an LED it has meant I don't need a seperate LED!

Power switch on

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Momentary switch pressed and relay working :thumbs

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Works really really well. I've got a shift kit installed in mine which means I run slightly higher line pressure so I put her into lock once I'm in overdrive at about 55/60 mph and the revs drop nicely down to about 1600/1800rpm (if you aren't running a shift kit you don't want to have lock running at less than 1800rpm as you will wear the lockup clutch due to the pressure being too low).

Once I engage TC lock manually she stays in, hill or not, until I brake. I can even shift between 3rd and 4th whilst in lock (takes a bit of practice/familiarity to make the change up less savage though). Benefit is once I have the towbar back on the Trol I will be able to engage lock even when I'm running in 3rd with overdrive switched off for towing and can make the gearbox run cooler and at lower revs as a result.
 
Next up!

Cut down a shelving unit from B&Q and installed it in the boot to give me some ordered storage space :D

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All packed for the coast to coast (got rid of the plastic tub) :thumb2

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