Which Oil

[glanrichbex]

Branded oil is very expensive because you pay for the name i use unbranded stuff costs about £70 for 25 litres and its what is used in the trade been using it for 10 years without any problems can be bought on ebay here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEMI-SYNTHETIC-10W-40-DIESEL-ENGINE-OIL-25-LITRES-/290264251905

I don't go for brands or names - its the quality of the oil and using the correct oil that matters. There are those who would use general lubricants in the gearbox and transfer box. I would only use Comma GL4 in my gearbox because as we know, if we do not use the correct oil in the gearbox it will lead to its demise. Nor would I concider using a GL4 oil type because it is less expensive for the same reason... so why slip on quality when it comes to the engine?
Garages are heavily competing to do the cheapest oil change possible, some are advertising oil and filter change for £30!! .

The term TRADE is a buzz word to the general public dilluding people into thinking that somehow the quality of the product is more superior for cheaper and this is special stuff that not many people can get hold of..... it's junk, it's cheap and nasty, maximises profit margin, it's recycled by centrifuge. Take into consideration the cost of the filter and labour ..... what sort of oil are they putting in your engine for £30 ?

I paid alot of money for my truck - I want it to last, when you see people having problems with low oil pressure, coked EGR + intercooler, crankcase breather problems, failed endfloat seals leaking engine oil into the bell housing all over the clutch - to name only some problems. Engine parts are very expensive and very labour intensive to replace so why cut corners?


Most people don't hang onto their vehicles for long enough to experience the harm done over time by poor quality oil but ( as someone else here said ) it is false economy.

 

[cncfabs]

I don't go for brands or names - its the quality of the oil and using the correct oil that matters. There are those who would use general lubricants in the gearbox and transfer box. I would only use Comma GL4 in my gearbox because as we know, if we do not use the correct oil in the gearbox it will lead to its demise. Nor would I concider using a GL4 oil type because it is less expensive for the same reason... so why slip on quality when it comes to the engine?
Garages are heavily competing to do the cheapest oil change possible, some are advertising oil and filter change for £30!! .

The term TRADE is a buzz word to the general public dilluding people into thinking that somehow the quality of the product is more superior for cheaper and this is special stuff that not many people can get hold of..... it's junk, it's cheap and nasty, maximises profit margin, it's recycled by centrifuge. Take into consideration the cost of the filter and labour ..... what sort of oil are they putting in your engine for £30 ?

I paid alot of money for my truck - I want it to last, when you see people having problems with low oil pressure, coked EGR + intercooler, crankcase breather problems, failed endfloat seals leaking engine oil into the bell housing all over the clutch - to name only some problems. Engine parts are very expensive and very labour intensive to replace so why cut corners?


Most people don't hang onto their vehicles for long enough to experience the harm done over time by poor quality oil but ( as someone else here said ) it is false economy.

Synthetic oil was developed for high performance close tolerance engines you will do much more harm than good putting it in an agricultural engine with larger clearances.
Problem is people are brainwashed into putting high priced oils into their cars thinking that they offer more protection.
All oils are graded the actual oil for the terrano is API CE which was obselete years ago

 

[supergnome]

Been using up my 10/30 universal tractor oil for last 12 months . Its a semi-synthetic. Rotovator and mower like it too. David

 

[glanrichbex]

Wrong oil should be mineral or semi which page of the manual says synthetic mine doesnt mention it.

I have the certificate of conformity from when my Terrano TDI was imported from Amsterdam in May 2000. The oil type is 15W 40 synthetic. All the service history has been done at Nissan Gargaes ( last owner very religous about that sort of thing ) and it's had the same oil since.

 

[stinka]

Synthetic oil was developed for high performance close tolerance engines you will do much more harm than good putting it in an agricultural engine with larger clearances.
Problem is people are brainwashed into putting high priced oils into their cars thinking that they offer more protection.
All oils are graded the actual oil for the terrano is API CE which was obselete years ago

Spot on, these are like tractor engines, bloody ohv pushrods ffs

'Thick and slimy oil' is about as far as oil spec goes for the td27

 

[glanrichbex]

Advantages

The technical advantages of synthetic motor oils

Measurably better low- and high-temperature viscosity performance at service temperature extremes
Better chemical & shear stability
Decreased evaporative loss
Resistance to oxidation, thermal breakdown, and oil sludge problems
Extended drain intervals with the environmental benefit of less oil waste.
Improved fuel economy in certain engine configurations.
Better lubrication during extreme cold weather starts
Longer engine life
Superior protection against "ash" and other deposit formation in engine hot spots (in particular in turbochargers and superchargers) for less oil burnoff and reduced chances of damaging oil passageway clogging.
Increased horsepower and torque due to less initial drag on engine
Does not contain detergents

Disadvantages

The disadvantages of synthetic motor oils include:

Potential decomposition problems in certain chemical environments (predominantly in industrial use.)
Potential stress cracking of plastic components made of polyoxymethylene (POM) in the presence of polyalphaolefin (PAO).[citation needed]
Because rotary engines inject small quantities of motor oil into the combustion chamber to lubricate the apex seals, and burned synthetic oil causes gummy deposits on the apex seals, synthetic oils are not recommended in automotive rotary engines.[17]

 

[supergnome]

When I got my tractor it was 27 yrs old I changed the oil and filter every two years without fail. After 35 years of use by me I sold it at 63 yrs old. It still started first time. Never had the engine touched apart from a new glow plug switch. Getting tlc in a barn now , but comes out to play when the weathers nice.

 

[solarman216]

glanrichbex, you sound clued up on this, are you sure synthetic's contain no detergents? and what about viscosity improver's? I run a variety of engines the oldest being a 1975 twin air cooled Lister probably done 10/12 thousand hours, last time I had the heads off (about 6 years ago) the honing marks could still be seen in the bores, I run this on the cheap oil from Lidl's oh and fuel wise it runs great on a mix of old engine oil and red derv with a little acetone added, at first I used too much old oil and the injectors got crud on them, but now around 30/70 oil/derv is about right and still do oil change at 250 hours no filter, still starts excellent, took a couple of seconds more during the -4 we had a little while ago, Rick

 

[terranobreakershropshire]

run mine on a good quality agri oil we buy in bulk for farm £220 for 45 gallon. its q8 and designed for modern turbo diesel engines - good enough for a 2.7 td engine! i have heard of bore glaze if oils are too good and oil burning etc. i think the best policy is regular changes? i wouldnt buy the very cheap stuff though.
rick > i know what mean with too much waste oil. i blocked an injector on a off road terrano a few years ago running it @70% black stuff with 30% kero.

 

[solarman216]

funny enough the 2.4 petrol (and I have no reason to think the diesel version is any different) has 4 grades of big end shells and several grades of bore/piston so they are a high quality engines, and therefore demand high quality oil, while the 75 Lister will be happy with anything, Rick

 

[cncfabs]

funny enough the 2.4 petrol (and I have no reason to think the diesel version is any different) has 4 grades of big end shells and several grades of bore/piston so they are a high quality engines, and therefore demand high quality oil, while the 75 Lister will be happy with anything, Rick

Think the ka24 petrol engine is much higher spec engine than the diesel as it is fitted into the sx240 coupe albeit in much higher state of tune if you google ka24 you will find them fitted with superchargers

 

[stinka]

Indeed, ka24 also has a forged bottom end iirc

 

[solarman216]

Think the ka24 petrol engine is much higher spec engine than the diesel as it is fitted into the sx240 coupe albeit in much higher state of tune if you google ka24 you will find them fitted with superchargers

yes knew the sx240 was charged and that the ka24 could handle a lot more horses than in the T2 spec, but simply assumed the 2.7 was the same as out of the same stable and they did well in the London taxi's, the engine you supplied to me the honing marks are still visible in the bores, the problem in the T2 version is the oil filter drains so on start up a few ten's of revs go before oil is fed to the bearings, leading to wear of the shells, does not happen on the 2.7 and do not know about the sx240, Rick

 

[melissachels]

I buy big barrels at trade price (well i did until recently) and semi is as cheap as chips! I have even used the best 0w 5 fully synthetic race grade from Q8 oils in the fuel tank as it is cheaper than veg oil!

Motor factors are robbers! :thumb2

hee hee i've had a bit of everything :lol, wvo, svo, deisel, keriscene:augie(no sure on spelling) :lol:lol:augie,

 

[solarman216]

hee hee i've had a bit of everything :lol, wvo, svo, deisel, keriscene:augie(no sure on spelling) :lol:lol:augie,

you do not want to be using kerosene in your T2 the pump will fail pretty quick, the pressures in a motor are far higher than a CH boiler, Rick

 

[Tomas]

Dunno about anyone else but I'm totally confused now about which bloody oil to use in my 2.7TDi !!!!!!!!

 

[geoffdown]

Dunno about anyone else but I'm totally confused now about which bloody oil to use in my 2.7TDi !!!!!!!!

mineral 15/40w job done its in there for 6k not 12 or in some lorrys 100k

 

[Terranical]

mineral 15/40w job done its in there for 6k not 12 or in some lorrys 100k

I had synthetic put in my '94 T2 by a Spanish garage against my instruction to use mineral - result? Blue smoke on start up an d a huge increase in oil consumption!
I've just drained it and, after getting a face and neckful of extremely hot, black oil (when draining these engines the old oil does not follow the laws of gravity and fall vertically, it shoots towards the front of the truck at a 45 degree angle, missing your receptacle and aiming straight for your mouth!) I have put in 7 litres of Spanish supermarket 15-40 mineral oil, after 40 or 50 miles blue smoke is already reduced - nuff said!