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at idle if you pull on the steering wheel a little the engine speeds up, or should do, it is done via a switch in the pressure line, if this switch is closed permanently it should increase idle speed, Rick

Cant remember seeing that on the diesel
 
So if the ecu sets the idle speed what would cause it to gradually reduce its self:nenau
The unit on the pedal has a small adjuster screw on it which I tweaked a tad to bring the idle back up to what it should be.never noticed any adverse effects over the year or so I ran the motor.
 
If you look at the pedal assy there is little adjustable bolt where the pedal stops.i just took the slack out of the cable which set the idle back to 800 rpm.
 
I think it could possibly be done with a little ingenuity.
Over-run = (vehicle moving) + (Engine RPM > ~1000) + (Throttle closed).
I wonder, if under those conditions it would be acceptable to close the main fuel valve on the IP? and if that would effectively stop fuel delivery?

It would take some working out, like pressing in the clutch at speed and on the over-run, ie changing down, you wouldn't want the engine to cut out, this probably explains why some cars have a switch on the clutch pedal.

So clutch pedal down, over-rides the disable. hmmm....

I wonder just how much of a fuel saving this could actually achieve:nenau:nenau

Probably not worth it.

Rustic
 
If you look at the pedal assy there is little adjustable bolt where the pedal stops.i just took the slack out of the cable which set the idle back to 800 rpm.
There is no cable on a TDi, Only a pot, an idle switch and wiring, if it's mechanically controlled throttle then no problem, but not so with F.B.W.

Here's a thought, the models fitted with air con have the ability to raise the idle speed by 100RPM, this happens whenever the AC is switched on.
You could achieve the same thing by telling the ECU that the air con is switched on even if it's not fitted.
Pin 403 on the ECU is connected to ground when the AC is switched on.
See EC-442

My only thought on how the idle speed is affected by age is that the spray pattern from the injectors could be less than ideal after some time?
 
There is no cable on a TDi, Only a pot, an idle switch and wiring, if it's mechanically controlled throttle then no problem, but not so with F.B.W.

Here's a thought, the models fitted with air con have the ability to raise the idle speed by 100RPM, this happens whenever the AC is switched on.
You could achieve the same thing by telling the ECU that the air con is switched on even if it's not fitted.
Pin 403 on the ECU is connected to ground when the AC is switched on.
See EC-442

My only thought on how the idle speed is affected by age is that the spray pattern from the injectors could be less than ideal after some time?

There is a small cable on the top of the pedal assy on the tdi.this is where the adjustment was done.if you look up at the top of the throttle pedal you can clearly see it.
Was a simple fix that worked for me.
 
There is a small cable on the top of the pedal assy on the tdi.this is where the adjustment was done.if you look up at the top of the throttle pedal you can clearly see it.
Was a simple fix that worked for me.

Depends on year the later tdi doesnt have that cable its a sealed unit
 
Cant remember seeing that on the diesel
you are right, not one my TDi off roader, had a quick look at the throttle assembly mine is operated by a very short cable, it is possible I guess for the adjusting screw to wear, so lowering the idle speed, there are two plugs onto the unit, I guess one will be the closed throttle switch, so a bit of testing with an ohm meter will soon say which then after getting an acceptable idle the switch can be checked to make sure it is in the closed throttle state, ie you have not over adjusted it, Rick
 
Went to Slindon today and developed throttle problems, seems the rotating section has got sticky and does not always return to the stop, but the pedal arm does, and on closer inspection with torch and glasses on seems the closed throttle switch is a standard micro switch operated by the arm but in my case today as the barrel was not returning to the stop caused the mil light to come on and go to limp mode, not good going up a steep incline, but the point is there is loads of adjustment on the stop as long as the arm is not lifted from the switch, so adjust away, Rick
 
Went to Slindon today and developed throttle problems, seems the rotating section has got sticky and does not always return to the stop, but the pedal arm does, and on closer inspection with torch and glasses on seems the closed throttle switch is a standard micro switch operated by the arm but in my case today as the barrel was not returning to the stop caused the mil light to come on and go to limp mode, not good going up a steep incline, but the point is there is loads of adjustment on the stop as long as the arm is not lifted from the switch, so adjust away, Rick


:thumb2
 
Went to Slindon today and developed throttle problems, seems the rotating section has got sticky and does not always return to the stop, but the pedal arm does, and on closer inspection with torch and glasses on seems the closed throttle switch is a standard micro switch operated by the arm but in my case today as the barrel was not returning to the stop caused the mil light to come on and go to limp mode, not good going up a steep incline, but the point is there is loads of adjustment on the stop as long as the arm is not lifted from the switch, so adjust away, Rick

elty had a look at my pedal and it is indeed a sealed unit.

and pics of this arm thingy I can adjust? or a description of where and what to look for please
Im up my mates workshop tomoz so I can get me mate mechanic have a look see:bow
 
Did you ever get the idle sorted. Mine has this vibration at idle and has the sealed unit accelerator pedal. Had the truck for 6 months now and love it apart from this annoying vibration.
 

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