The story of our Red T2, Jiggly (Project thread)

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Just an update to post up pictures of the reversing camera install...

Here is the monitor on the dash, it folds flat when you do not need it.

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And in this picture you can make out the camera on the roof that gives you a permanent rear view, the one for when you are reversing is in the bumper under the spare wheel, must get a picture of that...

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I fitted her new rear step today as well....

I have removed the side steps....

not permanently, but to clean them up, and fit side marker lights to them. What a job... Had to drill out several seized bolts, and make a whole new mounting for the rear, as the Aluminium had completely oxidised away where the RivNuts should have been.

Remember to re check ball bolts are at 210nm after 25 miles of towing :)
 
Nice bit of electrical work !

Just read through this thread I wish I had the energy and enthusiasm to do what's been done looks well neat.

My best bit of vehicle DIY this year was fitting the DTRL's to my Beamer. I would like to fit some on the wife's Jeep but having trouble working out where to put them without it looking to much like an afterthought.

I liked the ones someone on here put in the Bonnet shut area gap some sort of narrow strip LED's they looked cool.

Am open to any ideas but would prefer not to have to take the front bumper off.
 
That's quite a big screen innit, like it :thumb2

How are the rear work lights performing?

It's only 4.3inch....

The rear lights are great, no problem reversing in the dark with those on...

Remember to re check ball bolts are at 210nm after 25 miles of towing :)

Thanks for the reminder... I think the ball will be changed for a "Dixon Bate" coupling before we actually tow with it at the moment as I still prefer my car for towing..

Just read through this thread I wish I had the energy and enthusiasm to do what's been done looks well neat.

My best bit of vehicle DIY this year was fitting the DTRL's to my Beamer. I would like to fit some on the wife's Jeep but having trouble working out where to put them without it looking to much like an afterthought.

I liked the ones someone on here put in the Bonnet shut area gap some sort of narrow strip LED's they looked cool.

Am open to any ideas but would prefer not to have to take the front bumper off.

Thanks...

I think to get smart looking things that do not look like they are "Bolt ons" you need to take things apart..:lol
 
Spent today changing boot light to LED strip light, and then fitting a second matching one to the side of the boot over the First Aid kit. This means that you can see in the boot at night even when the cover is pulled over, and also means that when reaching to the rear of the boot or using the first aid kit, you are not in your own light.

Fitted 13pin to 2 x 7pin converter to back door to keep it handy.

Fitted roof LED flashing beacon.. (not fully wired up yet)

Fitted Side steps back on, and wired up the side marker lights. They are now the same as on my T2, so they come on with side lights, and also flash with indicators.


list of Jobs now,

Wire up Roof Beacon Switch
Centre Console lid inner moulding
Boot door carpet Trim panel broken along edge
Look into replacing front wing
replace plastic captive nut section for the Sunroof
Keep eye for ally thermostat cap, as this has a plastic one.
Make and fit Snorkel.
 
Spent today changing boot light to LED strip light, and then fitting a second matching one to the side of the boot over the First Aid kit. This means that you can see in the boot at night even when the cover is pulled over, and also means that when reaching to the rear of the boot or using the first aid kit, you are not in your own light.

Fitted 13pin to 2 x 7pin converter to back door to keep it handy.

Fitted roof LED flashing beacon.. (not fully wired up yet)

Fitted Side steps back on, and wired up the side marker lights. They are now the same as on my T2, so they come on with side lights, and also flash with indicators.


list of Jobs now,

Wire up Roof Beacon Switch
Centre Console lid inner moulding
Boot door carpet Trim panel broken along edge
Look into replacing front wing
replace plastic captive nut section for the Sunroof
Keep eye for ally thermostat cap, as this has a plastic one.
Make and fit Snorkel.

Nice work sir :thumb2

What relays are you using for the rear work lights?
 
Nice work sir :thumb2

What relays are you using for the rear work lights?

Thank you..

I got a nifty 6 way relay base from Ebay, and then used standard 40amp 5 pin change over automotive ones for all 6, so they are interchangeable.

I made up a distribution and relay board that I mounted in the rear wing for all the electrics at the back.. Here is the post and pictures.
 
Spent today changing boot light to LED strip light, and then fitting a second matching one to the side of the boot over the First Aid kit. This means that you can see in the boot at night even when the cover is pulled over, and also means that when reaching to the rear of the boot or using the first aid kit, you are not in your own light.

Fitted 13pin to 2 x 7pin converter to back door to keep it handy.

Fitted roof LED flashing beacon.. (not fully wired up yet)

Fitted Side steps back on, and wired up the side marker lights. They are now the same as on my T2, so they come on with side lights, and also flash with indicators.


list of Jobs now,

Wire up Roof Beacon Switch
Centre Console lid inner moulding
Boot door carpet Trim panel broken along edge
Look into replacing front wing
replace plastic captive nut section for the Sunroof
Keep eye for ally thermostat cap, as this has a plastic one.
Make and fit Snorkel.

I never got round to doing the pictures to go with this, so here they are...

Boot Lights
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Boot door... I got fed up with the saggy net, so removed it and used the space for the Fire Extinguisher, and the 13pin to 2 x 7pin trailer light converter.

20160925_191212_zpss42mf5kr.jpg


Not a very good picture, but the new side markers

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With the darker evenings, suddenly I realised just how many bulbs were out on Jiggly's dash board, and even those that were working were working were a washy blue. Time to change to LED's!

So I spent a night on here, reading all the old posts of people who had updated their lights, but was surprised at how many never actually posted anything up about the results...

Before removing the dash, I wanted to order the LED bulbs from Ebay, This proved entertaining, as the posts just said I needed a T5 bulb, but when you look on Ebay, there are several different "T5" styles. I ended up ordering 2 types...

These are called "T5" and do not fit...
Doner201_zpsxh6qp6jw.jpg


These are called T4.7/T5 and fit perfectly.
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I replaced all the Dash bulbs except the Battery and main beam bulbs with the new Blue LED's... I am very pleased, and more importantly, Suz is over the moon with the results...

It actually looks slightly more purple in real life.
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Then it came to the time to try and sort out the heater controls. I looked high and low on here, but there is basically no information that is helpful, so I set to work...

Firstly you have to remove the centre part of the dash... Next, no mater what I tried, there seems no way to actually get the heater control out of the dash, as it is installed from behind the dash, and there is not enough room to be able to get it out. In the end, I gave up, and set to work trying to find where the bulbs were... I discovered that they are twist in bulbs, like used in the dash, and fitted from the back...

Sorry for the picture quality, not easy to fit the phone in the dash and then also see to get a picture. These are taken from where the radio would be, looking back into the car.

Nearest Steering wheel...
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Nearest glove box...
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Trying to find a screw driver that fitted into the slot on the base of the bulb holder was entertaining.

I then hit the first major problem... the bulb is not like any I have seen...
Heater20bulbs_zps47jetabj.jpg


So, back to the drawing board...

I decided that the best way forward was to try and rebuild the bulb holder... To do this, I butchered the "T5" bulbs, so I could re-use the LEDs.

Firstly, you need to remove the original blown glass bulb from the holder. This needs to be done with great care, don't be tempted to try and remove the blue cover first, as this actually helps to provide the ability to gently grip the bulb with a pair of pliers, so you can gently work it out of the holder... More importantly, if you do crush the bulb, it stops the glass flying in all directions.

So carefully unwrap and straighten the wire from the base.
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Then as explained above, using a pair of pliers, work the bulb until it slides up. The top of the holder will be very brittle because of the heat from the bulb, so do your best to try not to break it too badly.

remove20bulb202_zpshtabhale.jpg


Once the bulb is out, you need to get your donor LED. I straightened out the lead that goes round the bottom of the contact, then pushed the tab that retains the metal contacts, and slid them out, giving me the LED and resistor.

Doner202_zpstcozbhjv.jpg


Doner203_zps3lp31hnh.jpg


Now, because I am using donor LED's, the leads were not long enough... but even if they were new LED's the standard leads on a LED, are too stiff and thick for a later process, so you would still need to add a length of more flexible wire.

I have some single strand cable, so I strip a length of the insulation off, and extend the wires.

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Next you need to modify the bulb holder, to allow for the resistor to slide in, this requires opening up one of the holes to 2.5mm, for about 5mm of depth.

Modifiied20base_zps1cvjc5al.jpg


Depending on how good your soldering is, you may need to open the holes up all the way through with a 1.5mm drill to allow the join to pass down.

Now insert the LED into the holder, making sure the resistor is on the side where the hole has been opened up. Bend the wires round, so they follow the way the old wires were....

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You will need to use a pair of pliers to flatten the wire against the holder here..
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Finished article looks almost like the original
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One thing I discovered once I made the first, was that the LED was a bit too focused, so I used a diamond file to roughen up the curved end of the LED to defuse the light.... this is a lot easier to do while it was still in the "T5" donor holder when I was making the second lamp.

Getting the bulbs back into the dash was quite tricky, obviously being LED's they now need to be put in the correct way round, and secondly, there is nothing to get hold off to rotate them, and the new wires make then a lot stiffer to fit, but I won in the end when I realised I needed to flatten the contact wire with pliers as mentioned earlier.

This is the finished heater controls.

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I am very pleased with the results...

Only thing I could not work out was if the Heater, AC and Recirculate switches should illuminate with the side lights, as I could not find any bulbs for them, and currently none of them light up, other than when switched on.
 
You're mad:lol but looks great. I wish I had time to do any jobs on mine atm. Not sure I'd tackle that though:thumb2
 
Mate, that is an incredible post, it needs to be stickied!

I'm going to order some bulbs for my clocks asap now, I have the mysterious sticky speedo and rev counter problem on mine, I read on here how to check for broken soldered joints on the back and re soldered a few and now it only does it when I put my lights on, not straight away though it takes a little while and I'm sure it's because the bulbs heat everything up. I ordered two different types but neither were right and I sort of gave up, but now it's business time :D :thumb2, I will let you know if it works!
 
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Noticed a fuel smell when driving Jiggly, and then a puddle when stopped. Had a look under the bonnet to find the leak off pipes were living up to their name and leaking.

While I had the intercooler off to replace the pipes, I also used an Ammeter and 12v battery to check the glow plugs, to find No3 was dead. So I ordered up 4 new Lucas Glow Plugs, and replaced all 4.

Luckily the glow plugs all came out nice and easily, but changing the leak off pipes was another matter.

They all had metal spring clips on them, the sort you have to pinch the tabs together with pliers to release. trying to get pliers onto them, in the confined space, was very hit and miss, making it very hard to get them off. The pipes were also so hard they just snapped when you tried to pull them, leaving a piece of pipe on each injector, so you had to carefully use a knife to cut the pipe off. The pipe that runs from number 1 injector to the fuel pump had a tiny wire pipe clip on it at the pump end, with a rounded off pozidrive screw, that nothing would turn, so I had to carefully use a Dremil to cut the clip off.

I also changed the pipe that runs from the Radiator cap to the bottom of the expansion tank, as that was not sealing to the radiator cap spout, and while doing that, also put clear hoses on the in and outlet of the fuel filter.

I am now cold right through, and trying to defrost my extremities....
 
After converting the dash to blue bulbs, and then driving it at night, we realised that the red needles no longer glowed when it was actually dark, so at night, you have a great blue dash, which is nice and easy on the eyes, but no idea on your actual speed, revs, temp or fuel. Not so handy!!!

I also noticed that the switches on the heater controls did not glow, which made trying to find the heated rear window and mirror switch a trifle hard, so today I decided to sort it all out...

First off, out came the dash, and with a bit of (what I think was) clever placement of some tiny red LED's, the dash is now blue, but has a slight purple tinge in some places. I and most importantly, Suz, thinks it looks nice, and now has great glowing red needles, so that was a result.

Next was the heater controls, I took out the bottom section of the dash, so I could remove the whole centre section, and get the heater controls out.

Once out, I discovered both the actuation cables were only held in place by luck, as the plastic that both the metal clips that hold the cables in place had snapped. I know this is a fairly common issue on the T2, as I had to fix the same problem on my T2 not long after I got it.

I then discovered that there is a third bulb in the heater controls, but this is to one side, on the lower back, and impossible to see when the unit is in the dash. This is the bulb that illuminates the switches. I replaced the bulb, but the switches glow, was still pretty crumby and the bottom switch glowed a lot brighter than the top one, so I decided to set about lighting it up properly... The addition of a few more blue LEDs, and a little modification later, I am very pleased with the result.

I also used some wire weaved through small holes I drilled in the plastic to pull it back together, as the glue was not holding on it's own, and then cut some slots to create the ability to add come cable ties to re-enforce the clips that holds the activation cables in place.

Will put it all back together tomorrow, and see how things go.
 
After converting the dash to blue bulbs, and then driving it at night, we realised that the red needles no longer glowed when it was actually dark, so at night, you have a great blue dash, which is nice and easy on the eyes, but no idea on your actual speed, revs, temp or fuel. Not so handy!!!

I also noticed that the switches on the heater controls did not glow, which made trying to find the heated rear window and mirror switch a trifle hard, so today I decided to sort it all out...

First off, out came the dash, and with a bit of (what I think was) clever placement of some tiny red LED's, the dash is now blue, but has a slight purple tinge in some places. I and most importantly, Suz, thinks it looks nice, and now has great glowing red needles, so that was a result.

Next was the heater controls, I took out the bottom section of the dash, so I could remove the whole centre section, and get the heater controls out.

Once out, I discovered both the actuation cables were only held in place by luck, as the plastic that both the metal clips that hold the cables in place had snapped. I know this is a fairly common issue on the T2, as I had to fix the same problem on my T2 not long after I got it.

I then discovered that there is a third bulb in the heater controls, but this is to one side, on the lower back, and impossible to see when the unit is in the dash. This is the bulb that illuminates the switches. I replaced the bulb, but the switches glow, was still pretty crumby and the bottom switch glowed a lot brighter than the top one, so I decided to set about lighting it up properly... The addition of a few more blue LEDs, and a little modification later, I am very pleased with the result.

I also used some wire weaved through small holes I drilled in the plastic to pull it back together, as the glue was not holding on it's own, and then cut some slots to create the ability to add come cable ties to re-enforce the clips that holds the activation cables in place.

Will put it all back together tomorrow, and see how things go.

This post needed PICS
 
Went to put it all back together today, and then remembered that when I went to adjust the headlights the other week, I noticed that the switch for that was also not glowing, as it does on mine... I just discovered what a bunch of cheapskates Nissan can be, rather than have a second switch with a Blue filter, to match the wishy washy blue of the other bulbs in the dash, they fit the same green switch from the older Terrano with the green dash, and then do not run an earth wire to the switch, so the light does not glow.

So today, I ran an earth, and then re-built the switch so it has a Blue LED in it, to match the rest of the dash...

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Once that was sorted, I put the Dash back together and took these..

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Just need to change the USB socket, and the voltage meters to blue now... Oh, and change the light in the door window switch to LED as well.
 

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