Temperature Issue

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OK guys so I've eventually managed to get the new pump and belts fitted, I have re-filled the radiator cold and also topped the header tank up as well

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I came across a few issues but managed to get it all back together in the end only managing to break the black clip that the clamp slots on top of on the radiator to hold it in place.

I took the car out for a run and still the car is overheating, going into the red after only a few miles, the car juddered and then the engine light came on, I pulled over let it cool down and then crept it home :(:(

The heaters still wouldn't blow warm even though the car was overheating, the heaters were stone cold.

Seeing as I've just done the pump and belts this has to be the thermostat right?

Could it be anything else causing this?

I'm really upset by this, I've wasted a whole day and I'm still no further forward :(

Thanks in advance guys
could be blockage some where like rad does the rad get hot when engine over heating, didn't u replace the thermostat :nenau
 
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tbh stat would have been 1st thing i changed start with the easy jobs and then do the more difficult ones, as has been said it could be a blockage but doubtful being as you have had the system apart, if its not the stat i'd begin to suspect the head go and get it pressure tested but do the stat first, the easy cheap option, if it is the stat happy days, and try not to worry about the pump chances are it would have needed doin sometime soon anyway
 
could be blockage some where like rad does the rad get hot when engine over heating, didn't u replace the thermostat :nenau

Yes it does get hot when the engine is overheating and so does the rad cap

tbh stat would have been 1st thing i changed start with the easy jobs and then do the more difficult ones, as has been said it could be a blockage but doubtful being as you have had the system apart, if its not the stat i'd begin to suspect the head go and get it pressure tested but do the stat first, the easy cheap option, if it is the stat happy days, and try not to worry about the pump chances are it would have needed doin sometime soon anyway

Thanks man :) some great advise there, I'm just hoping that I will be able to pick one up from the car spares shop tomorrow as the one they gave me today was too small :S, really could do with my car back on the road before New Year.

The pump did need doing anyways as it was leaking coolant onto the drive which I have had an ear-bending for lol

How do I know if I've filled the car with too much coolant? and could this cause the car to overheat?

I'm really hoping it's not the head, isn't this a major job that costs a fortune?
 
Yes it does get hot when the engine is overheating and so does the rad cap



Thanks man :) some great advise there, I'm just hoping that I will be able to pick one up from the car spares shop tomorrow as the one they gave me today was too small :S, really could do with my car back on the road before New Year.

The pump did need doing anyways as it was leaking coolant onto the drive which I have had an ear-bending for lol

How do I know if I've filled the car with too much coolant? and could this cause the car to overheat?

I'm really hoping it's not the head, isn't this a major job that costs a fortune?

Why dont you try and run without the thermostat see what happens.You cant overfil it will find its own level through the overflow
 
Why dont you try and run without the thermostat see what happens.You cant overfil it will find its own level through the overflow

This was my next question, can this be done?

Will the car act any differently without one?
 
This was my next question, can this be done?

Will the car act any differently without one?

Will just take longer to get up to temperature.Long term its not a good idea as it causes engine wear but wont do any harm to try for few days or weeks
 
Will just take longer to get up to temperature.Long term its not a good idea as it causes engine wear but wont do any harm to try for few days or weeks

Fantastic, this could be the interim solution I was looking for!!!!!

I could run like this until after new year

If the car still overheats without it I take it I've got head gasket issues?
 
please do not run it without a stat at all, the max flow through the stat when fully open is carefully designed by Nissan, no stat anr the flow rate will be too fast, this causes cavitation behind the likes of head bolt areas and other casting imperfections which WILL RESULT IN LOCALISED BOILING/OVERHEATING AS IN THESE SMALL AREAS THERE WILL BE NO WATER IN CONTACT WITH THE METAL, also if you look at the stat it has a disk on the bottom that when open, closes the bypass, with no stat the bypass stays open, if you suspect the stat simply replace it with a lower temperature one they are not dear and on the 2.7 easy to do, ten mins, Rick
 
OK guys so I think the thermostat is the least of my worries now :(

I've since been back out to the car and started it and I'm still getting the engine light, I can also smell burning from the exhaust and it sounds like it's misfiring :(

What have I done :(
 
OK guys so I think the thermostat is the least of my worries now :(

I've since been back out to the car and started it and I'm still getting the engine light, I can also smell burning from the exhaust and it sounds like it's misfiring :(

What have I done :(

get it to ricks he will sort it :thumb2
 
get it to ricks he will sort it :thumb2

Bit difficult to get it down to Somerset though :(

I think I'm going to get it pressure tested, I started it up again this morning and she seemed to be down on power when I was revving it and I was getting small puffs of black smoke which me and my Dad thought may have been the turbo.

However upon speaking to James (terranobreakershropshire) he thinks that given that the temp was up in the red for between 30-60 secs this may have damaged the piston rings.

I think the only way to go from here is to get it pressure tested at a garage and let them determine whats wrong
 
BTW, as the engine light came on is there any way of reading the fault code to determine what went wrong or will that just be a generic engine light that has been triggered by the temp issue?
 
BTW, as the engine light came on is there any way of reading the fault code to determine what went wrong or will that just be a generic engine light that has been triggered by the temp issue?

Good thinking and all you need is a paper clip and the download:thumb2
 
Good thinking and all you need is a paper clip and the download:thumb2

I can't access the car at the moment to do this as after speaking to James earlier he suspects that because the temp was so high I might have fried the piston rings and recommended that I go get the pressure tested so I've dropped it to a garage that my mate works at and they are going to get this checked first thing in the morn so hopefully I'll hear the results before 10am

I drove the car up to the garage this morning and it seemed a bit down on power but wasn't misfiring like it was last night but it did sound funny still, more high pitched than that beefy 4x4 sound if that makes sense, I drove it for about 1-2 miles and the temp gauge didn't move at all :S

When I did start the car from scratch, I was getting a few tiny puffs of black smoke but this didn't stay long and the whole time I was driving my girlfriend was driving behind and she said there was no smoke at all, I was revving it and it didn't sound as if the turbo was spooling up :nenau

Lets see what the garage come back with tomorrow and then I'll go from there

I've got the new thermostat now too so I'll fit that when I get the car back as I know for a fact that the one in the car is knackered, it's just a case of finding out what else is has knackered in the process due to the temperature going through the roof
 
I've just had a quick look at the download and the only fault codes that seem to apply to my symptoms are 13 and 28, I'll check these out tomorrow
 
Right good news from the garage I think :)

I've picked the car up, they carried out a pressure test which indicated that there was no damage to the head gasket apparently however upon inspection of the gasket around the water pump it looks as if it isn't in straight and has left a slight gap so now I have another leak lol, I've brought some gasket sheets so I'm going to make my own and I've also purchased some gasket paste as well which should help it seal.

They have also told me that there was slight bubbling from the thermostat housing when the test was in progress, I now have the correct thermostat for the car and a new gasket for that as well :D

Going to fit this when new bloody years is out the way and hopefully all will be OK with the car, still sounds funny at the moment but I'm hoping that this is just down to the pump being new :S

I've been out and read the code from the engine light using the download provided which came back with only 1 code........... you guessed it 28 :clap

I've also been told that because the engine light came on logging that code that the car will have automatically tried to go into limp mode to protect itself which may account for the judder i felt.

Cleared the code using the method in the download and poo'd myself at first as it displayed another sequence!!!!! 5 long and 5 short flashes..... 55 :confused::confused:, I ran back in the house checked the download and 55 said " No Fault Found" lol, turned the key off and on and now the engine light has gone out :D

I'll keep you posted with any more progress I make just a few questions though;

1. Any tips on making my own gasket from those gasket sheets?
2. How tight should the belts be (how much slack) when re fitting? Just thinking back to my change in sound
3. Will I be ok replacing my 82 degree thermostat with an 89 degree one?

And one last thing

HAVE A HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!
:pep:pep:pep:pep:pep:pep:pep:pep:pep:beer:beer:beer:beer:beer:beer:beer:beer:beer
 
I've had an 88 degree stat in for several years with no problems. Have to say I'd be concerned about it if I was to do some towing but then again I worry too much.

Anyway good news on the pressure test.
 
Thanks for all your help and advise guys :D

I've managed to get the car up and running at long last.

I took the water pump back off again today as the garage told me I still had a leak from it, I knew I would as when I put it on I ripped the gasket by accident :doh, the car spares shop told me that I wouldn't get another gasket on it's own without buying the pump again and I would have to make my own :(

I brought some gasket paper and took the old gasket off, my mom carefully traced round it for me as best she could, I told her to make it bigger if possible, I don't care about the overhang. Got that all bolted back on and got some gasket sealant which has made it nice and tight for me, I am however missing a bolt from one of the holes as it seems that the thread is knackered so at some point I'm going to need to find either a bigger one or see if it can be re-threaded :(, anyone advise me on what I should do?

At the same time I think I'm going to take the cowling off and scrap that at the same time as it serves no purpose apart from pissing me off, I'm not stupid enough to put my hand anywhere near it when it's switched on.

I also replaced the thermostat while I was in there as I have the correct one now after being supplied with an incorrect one by the car shop. Again new gasket and some gasket sealant and I was away, topped the car up with 5 litres of green coolant into the rad and then another 5 litres into both rad and coolant header tank, ran the car around for a bit but the temperature guage was still getting dangerously high to the red :nenau

I turned the engine off and looked in the engine bay, there was no bubbling from the header tank which was a good sign and the heaters had also started blowing face melting hot air after about 1 mile however, when I looked the inlet and outlet pipe for the rad they were sucking for water that hard that the side had stuck together :eek::eek:

I got home put another 5 litres in the header tank and took the car for another run without the radiator cap on to bleed the system, stopped again put the rad cap on, drove it a couple of miles up and down the motorway again and VOLIA!!!!!!! Normal temperature showing on the clocks with the needle at the halfway point, hot heaters and all :D

So I think we are all good now, I'm going to keep an eye on the water pump and leave a mat under the car to ensure I'm not still leaking

The car does still sound funny though :S it still lacks that umphhh that it had before not power wise but the sound the grunt if you like, but now I've noticed something that I've not noticed before, when I change gear and come of the accelerator pedal I can hear a sound that I can only describe as the same kind of sound a pigeon makes when you can hear it sitting on your chimney.

I think this may be the turbo but I've never heard this before :S

Only way I'm going to know if this is right or not is to see if I can find someone else with a 2.7 and get in with them and have a listen to theirs

Thanks again guys
 
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