Still have accelerator pedal issues!!

[clivvy]

hey guys,

getting increasingly pi**ed off. I have hardly driven my Maverick lately due to this ongoing pedal issue. Its so random. I really need some more help if possible, so here is a break down of the issue, and what I have done so far:

Press accelerator pedal-MIL comes on, no revs/drive, release pedal, MIL either goes out, or stays on (returns when pressing the pedal). For example, just been out, its 1 degrees outside so cold, started car (first time in quite a few days) and straight away MIL comes on, no revs no drive, release pedal MIL goes off and repeat several times. Took foot off pedal, opened door, tried again, all ok. Persisted for 20 mins, all ok, didnt drive it, didnt see the point!

so far I have change dthe pedal for another used one. The old pedal does the same, or gives me crazy revs but lack of power-very odd, or gives nothing at all. I have removed and replaced the loom from gearbox to engine, checked all connectors in the engine bay, sprayed with WD40. Checked the pedal plugs and wires-back to ECU using volt meter and continuity bulb, seemingly all ok. Checked brake pedal wires, all ok. Removed most of dash to do this, removed ECU and checked-all seems ok. Removed dash clocks, replaced bulbs. inspected all visible wires under drivers side dash, all appears ok. Done a wiggle test on all visible wires/loom, no effect. I have cleaned and put right the negative battery clamp, moved and cleaned all earths (this seemed to make a bit of a difference).

I think thats it. The results are, same issue, if slightly better. One other problem, which may or may not be related and has been present since I bought the car years ago, is when it idles, the dash lights are a touch dimmer, and the rev counter bounces slightly (no, its not normal, no good running car does this), and you can feel the car vibration change inline with this. This can be more amplified if load is put on the car, such as turning on EVERYTHING. Revs never particularly drop, and it never feels like its going to stall--pressing the accelerator improves this as you would expect (unless the MIL comes on).

Battery is good (i know this because I have driven the car so little, it starts first time everytime and I have confirmed voltage). I havent checked the alternator-I have been assuming it sfine due to the battery never losing charge, I intend buying an alternator tester tomorrow, or use my volt meter to confirm its ok.

ok, so , can any give me a clue? It does appear to be an electrical [problem of some sort. I have noticed that the plastic panel that covers the windscreen wipers has been removed at some point, does this cover any wiring? could damp/moisture be getting in somewhere?

helps!!!!!

i love the car so much, but i am SO fed up now, MOT is 12th Feb, so I really need to figure this out!

 

[cleangreenm/c]

clivvy
my truck is 2.7tdi 2004 have had plastic wiper mech cover off twice and alltho was not lookin for wires i can not remember any being under the cover. this doesnt sound as if it will help you but you never kno roy

 

[clivvy]

clivvy
my truck is 2.7tdi 2004 have had plastic wiper mech cover off twice and alltho was not lookin for wires i can not remember any being under the cover. this doesnt sound as if it will help you but you never kno roy

cheers Roy, i'm at the stage now where EVERTHING helps mate!

 

[11redrex]

Have you tried a proven TPS Clivvy ? I have been following your other thread
. New MAF maybe ? Injection pump knackered ? What does the garage say ?

 

[clivvy]

Have you tried a proven TPS Clivvy ? I have been following your other thread
. New MAF maybe ? Injection pump knackered ? What does the garage say ?

I havent tried a proven TPS, only the one I got from a breaker, although I'd love to try it with a wokring one, the issue can be so random!

MAF is ok I believe, although I am watching a decent priced new one on ebay I plan to buy after MOT.

Injection pump - no idea, I doubt its knackered as car drives great when its working, and I have no fault codes pointing at the pump, and ECUTalk shows the pump ticking away nicely.

Garage!! I have made enquiries and as expected, they wont know until they look, and that will cost. Although frustrating, i'm way better off (money wise) diagnosing this myself.

Its a very tricky one. For example. Today was 0 degrees outside, regardless I gto to work on a few jobs on the Maverick. I decided to use my compressor and clean out as many of the electrical connectors as I could, focussing on the passenger side solenoids etc. Did that, checked and removed the plastic panel below the windscreen for water ingress-although water is getting in, there are no electrics to affect (sprayed up the plastic and windsreen wipers while I was at it fora giggle)

Check more wires and TBH, everything seems in tact. Even with this freezing temp, started car and it actually ticked over at idle from cold a bit higher than normal, and the glow plug relay clicked twice which it hardly ever seems to do. It then idled and drove perfectly for a couple of miles. I am making enquiries about a loom from a breaker-cant harm replacing all the engine bay wiring if the loom is cheap-might eliminate faulty plugs.

I think ideally I'd have a known working TPS to test the car, but I am getting close to taking it to an auto electrician, perhaps they have some magic way of diagnosing this issue and fixing it, as opposed to just telling me to replace the pedal-which I dont believe is the issue.

 

[kwondo]

hi Clivvy, had a similar problem with no revs when starting......after a while i realised that my ignition switch is worn, now when i start sometimes i need to turn the key ever so slightly back and hey presto the revs are back. i only found this out as when the ignition key is not working correct no revs also no power to radio, suggest to turn radio on and try to start the car once started if the radio is not on and no revs try turning the key slightly back. Might be a long shot but worth a try, good luck ....oh i dont normally leave the radio turned on before i start the car need all the power to turn the engine over nowadays, in the cold, lol
cheers
Russell

 

[96terrano]

I very much doubt it but could there be a short in the main wiring loom, somethings got hot and melted?, possibly a relay could of gone bad? :nenau I'm out of ideas :banghead:

 

[11redrex]

it's showing a tps fault but you don't think thats the problem ? seems like you've tried everything apart from the obvious.

 

[clivvy]

it's showing a tps fault but you don't think thats the problem ? seems like you've tried everything apart from the obvious.

i hear ya, but the first thing i tried, was the tps. checked it, cleaned it, checked the wires/continuity. Bought a second hand pedal but same fault persisted, if a little better (previously just touching the pedal made the revs go bonkers, now its even more intermittent but i get no revs)

as you suggest, the only thing I havent tried, is a new pedal...wonder how much they are?

 

[Liam]

OK, from reading the threads above, I would suspect the alternator or the ignition switch. Seems these two have the some of the highest voltages going through them and if the lights on the dash are slightly dim, I would definitely be thinking alternator. Replacing the ignition switch with a known good one might help.

 

[clivvy]

OK, from reading the threads above, I would suspect the alternator or the ignition switch. Seems these two have the some of the highest voltages going through them and if the lights on the dash are slightly dim, I would definitely be thinking alternator. Replacing the ignition switch with a known good one might help.

I tested the alternator yesterday, it appears spot on. I get 13.9 on idle, revs at 1500, then under load, same revs, i get 13.7 (all lights on etc)

Ignition switch was replaced a while back...!! :nenau

 

[11redrex]

I feel for ya Clivvy, the only price I could find for a tps was about 80 quid for a petrol one. I'll keep looking......

 

[Paul]

Have a look at the 2 switches on the gas pedel the micro switch gets full of crap & sticks, had almost the same thing as you & it was the switch.

 

[rayf3262]

Have a look at the 2 switches on the gas pedel the micro switch gets full of crap & sticks, had almost the same thing as you & it was the switch.

+1 on the switch, if the ECU still thinks it should be in idle mode and the throttle is applied (without the switch changing state) it would seem likely that could be seen by the ECU as a TPS error.

 

[clivvy]

+1 on the switch, if the ECU still thinks it should be in idle mode and the throttle is applied (without the switch changing state) it would seem likely that could be seen by the ECU as a TPS error.

I thoroughly checked and cleaned my old pedal, but the issue I had with that one was, press the pedal and it engaged TURBO BOOST, it went way over board. With this pedal, things changed, I got the no revs issue. When I hooked up ECU talk, it showed the switch itself as ok-on+off with each pedal press everytime, no sticking, but it was the voltage that appeared wrong. As I pushed the pedal down, the voltage stayed low, so the code logged was TPS, as opposed to the switch, so im not so sure thats it BUT I will give it another thorough spraying with electrical cleaner asap. wish I could actually take it apart but its sealed.


bear in mind that things improved greatly after cleaning ground wires in the engine bay, but the problem was not eliminated entirely. Again, after sorting out the negative battery clamp (was on upside down) and giving both clamps a good clean things improved again (general running but the TPS issue remained, only even more random between faults!!)

and just recently, after doing MORE work on the elctrical wires, thinsg improved again, except now the problem hasnt returned for the last few days. Driving has been limited, but even still, no error code but I still think its intermittent. I am driving it to work tomorrow, and you can almost guarentee that it will occur when I go to leave work for the day. If so, im videoing it.!

 

[briggie]

just a thought ..... you have cleared the fault codes EVERYTIME youve retested it ?

just thinking if you havent always cleared the fault codes , the ecu will see the fault codes and adjust accordingly as it sees fit, when in fact there may be nothing wrong , ie youve fixed it, hope that makes sense

 

[briggie]

throttle position sensor ?

http://www.camskill.co.uk/m30b887s3..._-_THROTTLE_POSITION_SENSOR_-_ADN17209_/RS_GB

think thats the petrol one tho ....... but not sure :nenau

 

[clivvy]

Hi Peter,

no mate, I havent cleared the codes everytime. What happens is the ECU stores the code, but if the MiL goes out, that means the ECU hasnt detected a problem, i.e. whats stored in the ECU doesnt cause the issue.

 

[clivvy]

FFS

so this morning I went out and defrosted the car, it was -3 here. Got it all defrosted, and hopped in. started the engine no problem, pressed the accelerator and bam, MIL light on, no revs, then revs, then no revs, stop and restart, same, gave up and went to work in my Mazda.

ARRRGGGHH

last night, it was working fine, see here:

http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w163/clivjoo/Maverick Driving/

WTF???

 

[makeitfit]

FFS

so this morning I went out and defrosted the car, it was -3 here. Got it all defrosted, and hopped in. started the engine no problem, pressed the accelerator and bam, MIL light on, no revs, then revs, then no revs, stop and restart, same, gave up and went to work in my Mazda.

ARRRGGGHH

last night, it was working fine, see here:

http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w163/clivjoo/Maverick Driving/

WTF???

pft, your lights need help too :lol