Spotlights

[Banshee]

Now the LWB roof bars are on and the spotlights are right where I want them, the cable glands have now been fitted and I'm ready to wire up :thumb2

Anything I've ever wired up before has always been a messy bodge job, this time I'm going to do a professional standard job and want some advice from you guys as to the best kit for the job.

I know what amperage wiring I need etc but I don't know what relay I should use? I basically want the 4 lights on the roof operated by one switch on the dash, I DO NOT want to piggyback them onto the main beam.

So shopping list I need help with so far is Relays and I want a nice plain switch that will fit into the blanked holes that are already present on the lower piece of plastic trim under the speedo binnacle.

More questions to follow

Really appreciated guys

 

[makeitfit]

You can use another Nissan terrano fog light switch off a breaker :thumb2
What watt ? :lol
What wattage blubs are you using ? Then the right size cable can be sourced as can the relay :thumbs

 

[Fez_uk]

Theres a wiring diagram I drew floating about somewhere which you could have 3 positions on a switch with one relay to either do:
Off
Spotlights on with main beam
Spotlights on

I ran corrugated trunking type wiring pipe? along the spotlight bar with openings for each spotlight, Can upload pics when I get home from work.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

If you are running standard 55w bulbs in the lamps, each light will draw approx 4.5amp, so 18 amp overall...

The biggest problem is, most "0ff the shelf" rated cable found in car shops is very under rated when you look into it. If you asked for 18amp cable, they would probably sell you 2.5mm2, but with a 5 meter run, the volt drop for all 4 lights would be 1.23 volts. With lights the volt drop you get over such a long run really notices if you do not use big enough cable, so you are better over specifying the wire... To get to a generally accepted 2% loss, you would need 10mm2 wire.

The problem then is the size of the wire, and the cost becomes impractical... What I did when I had the roof spots, is buy 4 core 2.5mm cable, and use each conductor to run a separate feed to each light. I tend to use the body of the car as the return, so do not need the extra 4 wires., but that depends on if your roof bar is electrically connected to the body. If it is not, then you would be best running 2 x 4 core 2.5mm cables, so each cable serves 2 lights.

On my car, even though the relay could handle 40amp, I actually used 2 relays, so I then had 2 independent circuits. This meant that should one relay fail, I still had half my roof lights.

I ran a 16mm2 cable from the battery to a distribution fuse box, like this, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-6-10-WAY-1-POSITIVE-BUS-IN-LED-WARNING-FUSE-BOX-HOLDER-12V-24V-STANDARD-BLADE-/231540874733?var=&hash=item35e8e95ded:m:m3lOCdh7I4m1LFp-5Y5mdhA mounting it on the N/S inner wing, and then took the feeds from that to the spot lights.

Have a look on this site, it lets you calculate cable sizes for given currents and cable lengths.. http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html

 

[Banshee]

I promised lots of questions so here goes :naughty

If you are running standard 55w bulbs in the lamps, each light will draw approx 4.5amp, so 18 amp overall...

The biggest problem is, most "0ff the shelf" rated cable found in car shops is very under rated when you look into it. If you asked for 18amp cable, they would probably sell you 2.5mm2, but with a 5 meter run, the volt drop for all 4 lights would be 1.23 volts. With lights the volt drop you get over such a long run really notices if you do not use big enough cable, so you are better over specifying the wire... To get to a generally accepted 2% loss, you would need 10mm2 wire.

The problem then is the size of the wire, and the cost becomes impractical... What I did when I had the roof spots, is buy 4 core 2.5mm cable, and use each conductor to run a separate feed to each light. I tend to use the body of the car as the return, so do not need the extra 4 wires., but that depends on if your roof bar is electrically connected to the body. If it is not, then you would be best running 2 x 4 core 2.5mm cables, so each cable serves 2 lights.

On my car, even though the relay could handle 40amp, I actually used 2 relays, so I then had 2 independent circuits. This meant that should one relay fail, I still had half my roof lights.

I ran a 16mm2 cable from the battery to a distribution fuse box, like this, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-6-10-WAY-1-POSITIVE-BUS-IN-LED-WARNING-FUSE-BOX-HOLDER-12V-24V-STANDARD-BLADE-/231540874733?var=&hash=item35e8e95ded:m:m3lOCdh7I4m1LFp-5Y5mdhA mounting it on the N/S inner wing, and then took the feeds from that to the spot lights.

Have a look on this site, it lets you calculate cable sizes for given currents and cable lengths.. http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html

Clive that's some great info thank you :thumb2

Where about did you ground your lights, in the past I've stupidly rand the ground wire individually all the way back to the battery which I believe is the wrong way of doing it, I have a few grounding points on the roof I could use I think.

I'm interested in seeing some pics of how people have ran the cabling neatly across the roof bar, I get how it all connects from there, my wiring will be ran through the car as I've already installed the Skintop cable glands now :naughty

You can use another Nissan terrano fog light switch off a breaker :thumb2
What watt ? :lol
What wattage blubs are you using ? Then the right size cable can be sourced as can the relay :thumbs

55w Bulbs :thumb2 I have one of those switches but don't understand why there are so many wires coming from it :nenau I'm a bit of an electrical newbie but very willing to learn

Theres a wiring diagram I drew floating about somewhere which you could have 3 positions on a switch with one relay to either do:
Off
Spotlights on with main beam
Spotlights on

I ran corrugated trunking type wiring pipe? along the spotlight bar with openings for each spotlight, Can upload pics when I get home from work.

Just want spots on and spots off :thumb2 That will do me yeah pics of the wiring to each spot will be great, I want to do a really really neat job :bow

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

My light bar was bolted to the roof, so I just made a short wire, with a 1/4 spade terminal on one end, which connected to the back of the lens, and a ring terminal on the other that went between the bolt head, and the bracket, grounding the spots to their own fixing bolt. The spot fixing bolt went through the bar, so made a nice ground.

Running the cables is always the hardest part to do neatly...

Options include running the cables down the centre of the spot lamp bar, with just a small hole for the cable to pass out up to the spotlight... Make sure you clean the hole up, put a bit of heat shrink on the cable where it passes through the bar, and then a bit of black silicon to keep the cable in place to stop is chaffing.

I saw one guy use red silicon pipe, and stainless steel "T" pieces, running the cables through them... looked very smart on his red truck over silver truck with lots of stainless bling, but expensive, and a lot of fiddly work to do.

On the spots on an old off road Suzuki I had, I just used a mixture of the black plastic electrical conduit from Wickes, and plastic plumbing "T" pieces, I did it for practicality, but I think it actually looked good in Black and White.

As for the Switch... I have not looked at the Nissan fog switch close up, but chances are, you will have the following connections

Earth for dash light
Dash light feed
Feed for Fogs
Output to fogs.

Only problem is, there is no warning light on the Nissan fog switch, and so to be legal, you will need to have a separate warning light to tell you they are on.

 

[macabethiel]

Auxiliary Fuse Box and Relay units.

When I helped my mate re-shell his Mini Cooper S back in the day circa 1976 we bought a fused switch box that screwed to the passenger side of the dash all the Rally boys used them. Trouble is it's so long age cannot remember the make but Hella rings a distant bell.

 

[zippy656]

I've 4 lights on my roof.

One switch

However split into pairs, so two fuses and two relays. If one fuse blows or one relay fails not all lights go out.



Also up rate wire to take 100w bulbs at a later date.

 

[makeitfit]

I did mine in 2 pairs also. However I ran my cables inside the bar and used a military style plug and skt on the roof. Earth straight onto body work.

I set my spots lower on the bar though to get less tree collecting going on :lol

Making up the loom. These were then sealed and grommets fitted etc but 7 years back I cant find the right pics

Plug n play

Good luck mate

 

[Banshee]

I did mine in 2 pairs also. However I ran my cables inside the bar and used a military style plug and skt on the roof. Earth straight onto body work.

I set my spots lower on the bar though to get less tree collecting going on :lol

Making up the loom. These were then sealed and grommets fitted etc but 7 years back I cant find the right pics

Plug n play

Good luck mate

Shoot!!!! I remember seeing your pics before and thinking that the next time round I was going to drill my rood bars the same as you and put them lower down, now I have holes on the top though and bottom though I could use something like this and go over the top of the bar, through the top and out of the bottom and across the bars to the conduit the other side :naughty

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6mm-Cable...186449?hash=item43f1104e11:g:no4AAOSwuzRXdRyU

I may go and have a rummage around the hardware shop at lunch :clap

 

[Banshee]

My light bar was bolted to the roof, so I just made a short wire, with a 1/4 spade terminal on one end, which connected to the back of the lens, and a ring terminal on the other that went between the bolt head, and the bracket, grounding the spots to their own fixing bolt. The spot fixing bolt went through the bar, so made a nice ground.

Running the cables is always the hardest part to do neatly...

Options include running the cables down the centre of the spot lamp bar, with just a small hole for the cable to pass out up to the spotlight... Make sure you clean the hole up, put a bit of heat shrink on the cable where it passes through the bar, and then a bit of black silicon to keep the cable in place to stop is chaffing.

I saw one guy use red silicon pipe, and stainless steel "T" pieces, running the cables through them... looked very smart on his red truck over silver truck with lots of stainless bling, but expensive, and a lot of fiddly work to do.

On the spots on an old off road Suzuki I had, I just used a mixture of the black plastic electrical conduit from Wickes, and plastic plumbing "T" pieces, I did it for practicality, but I think it actually looked good in Black and White.

As for the Switch... I have not looked at the Nissan fog switch close up, but chances are, you will have the following connections

Earth for dash light
Dash light feed
Feed for Fogs
Output to fogs.

Only problem is, there is no warning light on the Nissan fog switch, and so to be legal, you will need to have a separate warning light to tell you they are on.

Lovely Clive :thumb2 I feel a lot happier now that I know what I'm doing :clap
Until I get to the relay and fusebox, do I need the 4 way one that you posted a few posts back? I'm about to get it ordered.

That's rubbish news on the switch so I'm going to trawl the bay to find something nice that fits in that hole

 

[Mav96]

Lovely Clive :thumb2 I feel a lot happier now that I know what I'm doing :clap
Until I get to the relay and fusebox, do I need the 4 way one that you posted a few posts back? I'm about to get it ordered.

That's rubbish news on the switch so I'm going to trawl the bay to find something nice that fits in that hole

How about something like these if your holes are still the same as Mav 35x21
you might have to cut a small square section out, remove a blank & take a look see.
sube

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

How about something like these if your holes are still the same as Mav 35x21
you might have to cut a small square section out, remove a blank & take a look see.
sube

Those are the switches I used in the centre console on Jiggly... They are very nice, and you can get them with all sorts of logo's on... I like the ones that say "Bunny Burners" or "Zombie Lights" :lol

Do an Ebay search on "CARLING ARB STYLE switches", they vary in price, but if you do not mind waiting for them to come from China/Hong Kong, you can get them very cheap.

For the fuse box, I personally would go for the 6 way, as once in place and wired up, if you ever want to add anything else you have a few spare to easily connect to. Depending on how you chose to wire the spots, you will only need 1 or 2 fuses for the actual spot lights, so even the 4 way will giv you 2 spare.

 

[Banshee]

How about something like these if your holes are still the same as Mav 35x21
you might have to cut a small square section out, remove a blank & take a look see.
sube

Missed this almost, those switches are perfect

Can I have some links guys?

I need a Relay and a switch, I've got the link to the fusebox earlier

 

[jims-terrano]

Watch what type of relay you get Banshee, I bought a batch of relays and connectors from fleabay and they're proper cheap nasty things. The terminals push back inside the relay case and although they click they don't actually switch the power.

 

[Banshee]

Watch what type of relay you get Banshee, I bought a batch of relays and connectors from fleabay and they're proper cheap nasty things. The terminals push back inside the relay case and although they click they don't actually switch the power.

You got links to the stuff you used matey? I'd rather get the good gear first time round :lol

 

[Mav96]

Whole kit here ? http://goo.gl/Dn4tTy

 

[Mav96]

http://goo.gl/tjT1kw Blue

http://goo.gl/iM6Ske Green

http://goo.gl/qkjgZs Red

http://goo.gl/hWqzDq Choice HK

 

[Banshee]

Whole kit here ? http://goo.gl/Dn4tTy

Is the relay and wiring up to the job? It looks a little on the cheap side, I don't want any cable fires :nenau

 

[zippy656]

Double up like I did. Two lights on one relay and fuse.

I can use 100w bulbs next time I change