If you are running standard 55w bulbs in the lamps, each light will draw approx 4.5amp, so 18 amp overall...
The biggest problem is, most "0ff the shelf" rated cable found in car shops is very under rated when you look into it. If you asked for 18amp cable, they would probably sell you 2.5mm2, but with a 5 meter run, the volt drop for all 4 lights would be 1.23 volts. With lights the volt drop you get over such a long run really notices if you do not use big enough cable, so you are better over specifying the wire... To get to a generally accepted 2% loss, you would need 10mm2 wire.
The problem then is the size of the wire, and the cost becomes impractical... What I did when I had the roof spots, is buy 4 core 2.5mm cable, and use each conductor to run a separate feed to each light. I tend to use the body of the car as the return, so do not need the extra 4 wires., but that depends on if your roof bar is electrically connected to the body. If it is not, then you would be best running 2 x 4 core 2.5mm cables, so each cable serves 2 lights.
On my car, even though the relay could handle 40amp, I actually used 2 relays, so I then had 2 independent circuits. This meant that should one relay fail, I still had half my roof lights.
I ran a 16mm2 cable from the battery to a distribution fuse box, like this,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-6-10-WAY-1-POSITIVE-BUS-IN-LED-WARNING-FUSE-BOX-HOLDER-12V-24V-STANDARD-BLADE-/231540874733?var=&hash=item35e8e95ded:m:m3lOCdh7I4m1LFp-5Y5mdhA mounting it on the N/S inner wing, and then took the feeds from that to the spot lights.
Have a look on this site, it lets you calculate cable sizes for given currents and cable lengths..
http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html