So this might be a bit late but...

[Daveluck]

...A quick question on engine mounts.

I have today managed to remove the 2 front mounts. The right hand side was shredded the left looks brand new. RH mount is now on order.

So...My question. To get these out I just carefully jacked up the engine without undoing the rear mount. Should I have undone the rear mount?

A cheeky second question, how easy is it to remove the rear mount to inspect it?

Cheers

Dave

 

[Banshee]

...A quick question on engine mounts.

I have today managed to remove the 2 front mounts. The right hand side was shredded the left looks brand new. RH mount is now on order.

So...My question. To get these out I just carefully jacked up the engine without undoing the rear mount. Should I have undone the rear mount?

A cheeky second question, how easy is it to remove the rear mount to inspect it?

Cheers

Dave

I'm sorry mate, usually I'd be straight back with a half decent reply but this is a job I've yet had to do on a Terrano yet :nenau

Some pics would be great just so I can see what's entailed

 

[Daveluck]

I'm sorry mate, usually I'd be straight back with a half decent reply but this is a job I've yet had to do on a Terrano yet :nenau

Some pics would be great just so I can see what's entailed

Cheers Banshee,

before I had a crack at this i searched the interweb. Do you think i could find anything for the Terrano? Lots for Pathfinders and Altima. They all pretty much said the same thing, undo the 14mm bolt on the sides and jack up the engine. So just took a chance and did the same.

I'm now slightly worried I may have put too much pressure on the rear mount...You really need to jack the engine quite high.

So I thought I'll have a look at the trans mount just in case.

Just reading your project thread...Very interesting, especially the clutch change.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Rear mount is not to bad, although getting the bolts undone can be fun. You need to support the rear of the gear box, and will need to lift it up as far as it will go. What I can't remember though, is if you can leave the cross member in place, to just remove the mount, as at the time I did it, I was removing the cross member anyway. I have a feeling I removed the mount first, to give me the room to remove the cross member, but someone else should be able to confirm that.

If you do need to remove the cross member, you will need a set of dog legged ring spanners, as the nuts are in a recess on the top of the chassis mount, so you can't get a normal straight spanner on them, and a socket won't fit.

 

[Banshee]

Cheers Banshee,

before I had a crack at this i searched the interweb. Do you think i could find anything for the Terrano? Lots for Pathfinders and Altima. They all pretty much said the same thing, undo the 14mm bolt on the sides and jack up the engine. So just took a chance and did the same.

I'm now slightly worried I may have put too much pressure on the rear mount...You really need to jack the engine quite high.

So I thought I'll have a look at the trans mount just in case.

Just reading your project thread...Very interesting, especially the clutch change.

Thanks mate, If a jobs been done you'll likely find it in there :thumb2

 

[solarman216]

...A quick question on engine mounts.

I have today managed to remove the 2 front mounts. The right hand side was shredded the left looks brand new. RH mount is now on order.

So...My question. To get these out I just carefully jacked up the engine without undoing the rear mount. Should I have undone the rear mount?

A cheeky second question, how easy is it to remove the rear mount to inspect it?

Cheers

Dave

OK you did not need to worry about the rear mount in order to sort the front engine mounts, there is plenty of flex in it, to test the rear mount all you need to do is try lifting the box from the X member, if you can the bond has gone which is a common failure, Rick

 

[Daveluck]

Thank you all.

I'll have a good root round today.

 

[Daveluck]

Thank you all.

I'll have a good root round today.

Forgot to ask about the rear mount:doh

Can i get to it without removing/loosening the front mounts? Ie can it be done independently?

Thanks again.

 

[Daveluck]

If you do need to remove the cross member, you will need a set of dog legged ring spanners, as the nuts are in a recess on the top of the chassis mount, so you can't get a normal straight spanner on them, and a socket won't fit.

Excellent!! I've been eyeing up a set of moon and s shaped spanner set for a while now but so far have not had a reason to purchase them.

How does this sound "So while it is possible to remove and inspect the mount without removing the cross member, it would be beneficial to have the tools required to remove the cross member on a just in case basis. Therefore, my love, I will need funds to be made available to purchase aforementioned items. Because you just never know what may happen"

It's a bit thin I know...I'll just casually mention it over lunch.

 

[rustic]

...

Therefore, my love, I will need funds to be made available to purchase aforementioned items. Because you just never know what may happen"
...

You have a loving way to reply to Lazy Ferret lol:naughty

Those tools that I can justify as a household saving by having them are the easy ones to get, but it's the more expensive ones that can be a challenge. eg 3 tonne high lift jack lol. In fact it was more a benefit to the wife's Picasso at the time, as the cross member was well off the ground.

Birthday coming up, Father's day, or just get them on ebay, sneak them in, but bury the packaging deep in the trash lol....

I justified a 10" saw bench on the basis that I had some hardwood, and I wanted a lot of 2440 mm x 6mm x 40 mm hardwood strip. At £8 a strip, it was easy to justify. A cross sliding saw, justified when I had to cut joists of 6x2 for the decking.

No to be fair, I have difficulty justifying it to myself, but after a few words with the wife, she usually insists I get them anyway. If it makes the job easier... but safer of course...:augie

Rustic

 

[Daveluck]

Checked the rear mount by jacking up the box and it appears to be OK.

It is definitely worn...I'll try and explain

Between the front and the back of the rubbers there is a space, into which from the top, a "bump stump" protrudes down into the space leaving about a 5mm gap. By the looks of it on mine that "bump stop" appears to be permanently touching the bottom rubber so it is not suspended.

Is that right? Should I replace it even though it isn't completely sheered?

I have noticed that the gear levers seem to be vibrating more....I think I'm answering my own question but any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[emjaybee]

Excellent!! I've been eyeing up a set of moon and s shaped spanner set for a while now but so far have not had a reason to purchase them.

How does this sound "So while it is possible to remove and inspect the mount without removing the cross member, it would be beneficial to have the tools required to remove the cross member on a just in case basis. Therefore, my love, I will need funds to be made available to purchase aforementioned items. Because you just never know what may happen"

It's a bit thin I know...I'll just casually mention it over lunch.

I tend to just buy them, make sure they are not seen, and if quizzed at a later date stick to my guns on the "I've had them for years, you just haven't noticed because you never help me".

Works most of the time. Helps if you wipe a bit of grease over them.

:naughty

 

[johnb5177]

I did have a problem, answering the simple question.......

'Do you really need 7 chainsaws....?'

...........:nenau

 

[Daveluck]

right, Ive ordered one...as well as some front discs and brakes

 

[Daveluck]

Rear / gearbox mount turned up today and it's fitted. Took about 1/2 an hour.

Once it was actually out I've had a proper inspection of the the mount. The rubber itself is crazed and very minor splits along the angles but nothing sheered.

It looks tired. The rubber seems to dip down between the uprights and there is clean rubber where the bumpstop has been resting on the bottom, and i assume rubbing, of the bracket. When I first jacked up the box up I watched that center part of the rubber lift up from the bottom of the bracket.

The new mount is unbranded and doesn't look as beefy as the original. However when installed there is a clear gap from the bumpstop to the bottom of the bracket so that should see some improvement.

Only time will tell if the replacement is man enough.