Running like a PIG

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Cheers buddy, I'm a slave to the cause :lol
I'm also an optomistic soul and know once sorted the beast will breath more fire than before :naughty
LPG and big turbo MUST be moved from the kitchen soon or my goolies get it:eek:
 
hello,
maff output on my maverick is a bigh at tickover, about 2.2v.
but yes you can see it moving with air mass passing over it, not whilst driving i might add.
my problem turned out to be different faulyt codes to yours.
i removed cranck sensor conector, and got fault coade as yours, the car felt like it was retatrded, i guess with no input from sensor the car relies on the ECU map for referance, so maybe your crank sensor is faulty, but after one start?
as ray said, look at output of maf, yours is hitachi? i believe they draw more current for longer periods than Hitachi, maybe bad conection somewhere?

i have to say that ecu talk is very good for free.
 
Badger, cheers:thumbs Mine also seems very retarded:eek:
I got the crank sensor again yesterday:doh
I did a log while driving but now I cant find where the log IS :augie
Trying again in a bit:rolleyes:
 
Help again please, anybody know how to retrieve the LOG from the ecutalk gubbins? :nenau
Oh and what sensor equates to the CPS
 
Just search for "ECUtalkddmmyyyy.csv"
dd=day
mm=month
yyyy=year

Should normally be in the same directory that ECUtalk runs in.
If you have Microsoft Excel on the computer it will open with this otherwise just use notepad or similar.
 
Right oh, I've got the log on a spread sheet and need more advice please:rolleyes:
What sort of figures should I be seeing for airflow at 3000 rpm?
Also there's no speed showing:augie Does the TDi have a movement sensor somewhere that could be broken? So for example the timing is not being advanced to suit "moving" map:nenau
 
Also, should the injection timing be proportional to revs?
ie as revs rise should the inj timing advance more and more (bigger - figures)
 
Timbo's bang on with the timing stuff, but if there is no apparent vehicle speed???? that's going to mess things up.
Yes there is a VSS attached to the gearbox somewhere I think, but If thats not showing owt from the ECU, I am puzzled as to how your speedometer works... or does it?
 
er Speedo works ok, any ideas then?
Zippy or Briggie , can you flag up the manual again please?
Cheers :D
 
The ECU takes the VSS signal on the g'box and THEN passes it onto the dash for the speedo.

The ecu is only interested in if the car is moving or not.

If you dont get the idle jackup as you start to roll then the ecu is going to be running with fixed retarded timing and it will feel very sluggish.

With it working normally timing would be:


Base timing figure
+engine temp correction factor
+ load correction figure (calculated load value based on throttle position and rpm)
+ MAF reading correction factor
+ air temp correction factor
+ truck moving or not correction. (if yes, do nothing, if no minus a fixed amount)
= desired timing figure.

Desired timing figure is checked by the ecu moving the advance / retard valve then comparing the needle lift signal with TDC from the crank sensor, then comparing again.

The ecu is always at least 4 crank revs behind what is actually happening cos it needs time to compute and because the timing has to be set for injection before the crank gets to tdc for it to check what figure the timing actually was at, and because it is a 4 cyl engine.

Sorry to be technical.
 
Thanks Timbo, so for my little brain to see if it's grasped any of that; if I have the engine running at standstill I'll have say 800rpm. If then I roll freewheel forward, should the revs go up a tad, or does it need to be in gear to see this small jackup?
OR can I challenge you to read my ecu log ?:naughty
 
Thanks Timbo, so for my little brain to see if it's grasped any of that; if I have the engine running at standstill I'll have say 800rpm. If then I roll freewheel forward, should the revs go up a tad, or does it need to be in gear to see this small jackup?
OR can I challenge you to read my ecu log ?:naughty

you should see 75-100rpm increase as the truck moves. Doesnt need to be in gear, just move.
 
VSS is driven from rear prop
Removal
Transmission has to be removed as a unit together with transfer
box.
Remove transmission assembly as follows:
I Disconnect negative battery terminal.
I Remove shift levers of transmission and transfer.
I Remove front and rear propeller shafts. — Refer to PD section.
I Insert plug into rear oil seal after removing propeller shaft.
I Remove RPM-sensor from transmission upper side.

To Check:
1) Jack up drive wheels.
2) Rotate drive wheel by hand.
3) Check voltage between ECM connector terminal 417 and body
ground with tester. Or Check directly at VSS
Voltage should vary between approx. 0 - Battery voltage.
or with Consult - you should have a speed reading!

 

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VSS is driven from rear prop
Removal
Transmission has to be removed as a unit together with transfer
box.
Remove transmission assembly as follows:
I Disconnect negative battery terminal.
I Remove shift levers of transmission and transfer.
I Remove front and rear propeller shafts. — Refer to PD section.
I Insert plug into rear oil seal after removing propeller shaft.
I Remove RPM-sensor from transmission upper side.

Cool :eek: It'll take no time then :doh
Can you confirm if this sensor drives the speedo or not, as the speedo IS working:augie
If it doesnt drive the speedo , could this be the underlying problematic sensor?:bow
 
Cool :eek: It'll take no time then :doh
Can you confirm if this sensor drives the speedo or not, as the speedo IS working:augie
If it doesnt drive the speedo , could this be the underlying problematic sensor?:bow
I don't thinkyou need to worry about "whipping out the g/box" Those where just generic instruction in the manual... just needed to show you where it is.
I'll check the speedo thing..
The VSS signal goes to the speedo FIRST then onto the ECU... Manual page EC-398.
So could easily be a dodgy connector inside the vehicle.
Yellow wire with blue tracer.
pin 26 on speedo unit to pin 417 on ECU
 

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