running cold....1998 maverick mk2 2.7tdi

Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum

Help Support Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

PARASOURCE

Active member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
44
can anyone help please.

engine always runs very cold on very bottom of gauge...gauge working ok...

heater cold as result.....even after hours of driving...

prevoiusly engine was getting very hot just below red if went over 50mph...flushed rad now dosent get at all....

engine performs ok.....

no oil in water,no water in oil.....

engine starts ok even this week in minus temperatures outside

not losing any water or oil....no leaks of anything..

would it be a failed open thermostat perhaps?
 
i'm no expert but from what i have read from other people with simular problems i would suspect the thermostat, no doubt someone will be along soon to give a more detailed answer in the mean time buy some hand warmers :D
 
my t2 was like tlat when i got it, this time of year too so put down to ram air
of cold air over cooling radiator, and my misunderstanding how viscous fan worked.

then thought thermostat, bought a new one, though seemed just like old one.

note there are atleast two types 82 and 88 degree C types.

BUT for me turned out there was an airlock, and this is after garage said, oh yes
they always run cold too.

after that ran just under half way up, and only time i ever got it remotely above
that was towing after bunging up rad with mud.

so, start with looking for airlock, make sure fan matrix open if refilling after
draining any. then stat.
 
Mine was same when I got it. Changed stat for summer one and now goes up to 1/4 way up, got a winter stat to put in plus a new water pump/viscous fan to get it really toasty, i hope. Out of interest, should the fan be running all the time as my and my friends' opinions differ?
 
heater

mine was the same, to the extent that it was effecting the gearbox which uses heat sensors to operate correctly.

changed the thermostat - all ok now, including the gearbox

paulp
 
Mine was same when I got it. Changed stat for summer one and now goes up to 1/4 way up, got a winter stat to put in plus a new water pump/viscous fan to get it really toasty, i hope. Out of interest, should the fan be running all the time as my and my friends' opinions differ?

You didn't buy that off ebay did you ? Sold the pump off the maverick to someone in Leigh ?
 
Regarding fan running all of the time..yes....I think so anyhow, I am sure....well almost positive...mine did on my Terrano.
 
See this explanation..
A fan clutch is a thermostatic device that exists as an integral component of certain automotive cooling systems. When the engine is cool or even at normal operating temperature, the fan clutch partially disengages the engine's mechanically-driven radiator cooling fan, generally located at the front of the water pump and driven by a belt and pulley connected to the engine's crankshaft. This saves power, since the engine does not have to fully drive the fan.

However, if engine temperature rises above the clutch's engagement temperature setting, the fan becomes fully engaged, thus drawing a higher volume of ambient air through the vehicle's radiator, which in turn serves to maintain or lower the engine coolant temperature to an acceptable level
:D
 
In other words, the viscous coupling will make the fan turn when the engine is cold, then it will warm up and the fan will not turn, then it will get too hot and the fan will turn to draw air through the rad and cool the engine.
 
i,ll check the fan in the morning...i would of thought if there was an air block it would do the oppposite and overheat...? both the rad pipes feel slightly warm and the heater feels just the warm side of cold....even after driving or idling for 30 mins....the coolant is luke warm too....all the heater cables are correct....temp gauge does not move more than 2 mm of the bottom...tested the temp gauge by shorting wire to earth and it goes to hot..
the car runs fine but as the engine never gets warm its bloody cold in there!
 
i,ll check the fan in the morning...i would of thought if there was an air block it would do the oppposite and overheat...? both the rad pipes feel slightly warm and the heater feels just the warm side of cold....even after driving or idling for 30 mins....the coolant is luke warm too....all the heater cables are correct....temp gauge does not move more than 2 mm of the bottom...tested the temp gauge by shorting wire to earth and it goes to hot..
the car runs fine but as the engine never gets warm its bloody cold in there!

If the radiator bottom hose is warm then problem is the thermostat, either broken or jammed open.
 
Modern Wax Stats, only ever fail closed, when they were talking air locks, I think they meant in your heater circuit, I would suggest you do not have a thermostat in the engine if it runs that cool, as for the fans they will always spin but not with full drive until the engine gets to a certain temperature then it will drive at full power, they will always drive at full power after being stopped for a while as the viscous fluid sinks to the bottom but after a minute or so the full drive will stop, Rick
 
if you get time rick could you explain how a viscous fan works . oh and over christmas is it ok to pop in , i need to learn how to do the tappets on mine :eek:
 
Viscous fans work a little along the lines of a fluid flywheel, there are fin on both parts and the fluid is controlled by a valve that is opened and closed by a bi-metallic coil spring on the front of the fan, when the fan gets hot the valve opens and channels the fluid to the fins of the two parts making them drive, centrifugal force is used as a pump, thats the best I can describe it, and yes Collin call when ever you are this way, always welcome, re tappets forget feeler gages most rockers that I have see have indents worn into the valve end so feelers are useless, just get the valve closed and undo the lock nut, screw the screw down till it just touches the valve back it off quarter turn and lock it off, done, (pretty sure its a quarter, could be half but a rough check with feelers will tell you) Rick
 
running cold

hey up mate i had this same problem the other day , changed stat job sorted:thumb2
 
similar issues for me one time only, thought it was frozen coolant (probably was) but changed coolant in rad and thermostat anyway, all good.
 
also been having same sort of problems, temp gauge not moving , cold air coming inside even after 10 miles , water pump and antifreeze done eailer this year , after a bit of messing about i drained the system and removed the thermostat and found that it had stuck open, now after fitting a new thermostat that the gauge goes up to about a 3rd of the way and nice and hot inside ,
the mav is now running better than ever

mark
 
on the merc we did a carrot test guess the same can be done here

raw carrot into the path of the fan if ti stops the fan no probs if it dont then clutch gone in fan
 
Frozen rad causes engine to boil as no flow. Rad will freeze as you drive along from cold if not enough antifreeze and air temp is -ve.

Has to be stat stuck open or no stat.

What do others think about blanking off part of the rad as a temperary measure for a bit of heat.

Bryn
 

Latest posts

Back
Top