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Looks like the rev counter takes it's feed from the IP so got to look for connection issues on that route, but boy does it pull, I cannot believe the difference it has made but the fuel gauge does seem to be going down a bit quick but what the heck,when I put my foot down it goes so so quick, Rick
 
Looks like the rev counter takes it's feed from the IP so got to look for connection issues on that route, but boy does it pull, I cannot believe the difference it has made but the fuel gauge does seem to be going down a bit quick but what the heck,when I put my foot down it goes so so quick, Rick

Try not to break it :lol
 
Looks like the rev counter takes it's feed from the IP so got to look for connection issues on that route, but boy does it pull, I cannot believe the difference it has made but the fuel gauge does seem to be going down a bit quick but what the heck,when I put my foot down it goes so so quick, Rick

Ah ha. I thought it had something to do with the pump. Well found.

So effectively all that's been changed is its giving more fuel throughout the rev range?
 
Hows she doin mate?

She's going well bud. Had a wee intermittent niggle with one of the shift solenoids sticking once the fluid got warm (I put it down to issues caused by the overheating and my running around in her for an extended period after) but touch wood a long run (200 mile round trip) at the weekend has banished that gremlin as she behaved good as gold on the run home.

Got a big trans cooler to fit hopefully next weekend (first chance I'll get) and I've got a spare set of solenoids to swap in if I still have issues but I'm hopeful she's good now.

How's yours?
 
She's going well bud. Had a wee intermittent niggle with one of the shift solenoids sticking once the fluid got warm (I put it down to issues caused by the overheating and my running around in her for an extended period after) but touch wood a long run (200 mile round trip) at the weekend has banished that gremlin as she behaved good as gold on the run home.

Got a big trans cooler to fit hopefully next weekend (first chance I'll get) and I've got a spare set of solenoids to swap in if I still have issues but I'm hopeful she's good now.

How's yours?

Mine is running really really well, since I stopped using morrisons diesel she pulls like a train and is smooth as, I think the starter is starting to go though and I still need a boot door :doh
 
Rev counter still playing up, odd today as I turned ignition on no engine run and it went bezerk, so no vibration to set off bad connections etc so thinking it must be a PCB problem on the meter itself, when I had it apart last time it only has a small PCB in the meter itself but could not examine it clearly as could not get the needle off of its spindle, will have a look on the AU sites to see if it is a common problem, Rick
 
Seems there could be a problem with the chip needing re soldering, whatever it is a common problem, if it cannot be fixed cheap I can live without a tacko, Rick
 
Seems there could be a problem with the chip needing re soldering, whatever it is a common problem, if it cannot be fixed cheap I can live without a tacko, Rick

Tiny soldering iron end and massive magnifier :cool:
 
I recently managed to fix my VW Passat TCU after it had been submerged for a while :thumb2
It had fizzed through the ulti tags and so I had to add in a little wire to the circuit board :eek:



 
Had my rev counter out over the W/E and resoldered all the joints I could, sorry no pics, also decided to renew my glow plugs, as on first checking the first three tested good but 4 5 and 6 were bad, although there were two buss bars to the system, Ah now it gets complicated, the plugs removed were CERAMIC now we all know about these and at 137k miles they are about at their fail date, so no way will I be refitting these, I already had a set for replacement, but here comes the problem, the originals are rated at 6.5v whereas my new metal ones are 11v and the originals are a set of 3 & 3, 1 2 3 are normal but 4 5 6 are special in that they do not go to ground, they have a two connection at the top, so one can go to ground while the other has 12 volts this gives a switching arrangement that enables half voltage during warm up, so my 6 new will not have this benefit, so we will see tomorrow am what happens, Rick
 
Well the rev counter has behaved itself after being operated on, it was not easy as there was only .5 mm between soldered pins, so had to use a powerful glass after to make sure I had not bridged any, as for the glow plugs that is a different mater, seems there is a sort of ECU that controls the plug relays and the EGR stuff, but this is the interesting point, the plug configuration on mine is according to the diagram for Switzerland and West Germany, the one for the UK is nothing like mine, so sorted out the relays and disabled the earth connection and connected the 2nd cable direct to the plugs, but it cut after initial start as the control unit expected to see half voltage when the second relay kicked in so went into disabled mode, I now have to find the wire that connects direct to the plugs and cut it then put my own relay in that fires up when the second relay comes on and feed half voltage to the control unit, trouble is I am not sure what resistor to use because this will depend on the load, in other words it will not just be a resistor but a small circuit that reads half of whatever the voltage is at that time as I am sure there will be a comparator built in, pesky control boards, wish Ray was about, Rick
 
Bloody hell rick.:eek:
And I was thinking, just put a button on the dash to push for a while before starting.
Why so complicated?
 
Well the rev counter has behaved itself after being operated on, it was not easy as there was only .5 mm between soldered pins, so had to use a powerful glass after to make sure I had not bridged any, as for the glow plugs that is a different mater, seems there is a sort of ECU that controls the plug relays and the EGR stuff, but this is the interesting point, the plug configuration on mine is according to the diagram for Switzerland and West Germany, the one for the UK is nothing like mine, so sorted out the relays and disabled the earth connection and connected the 2nd cable direct to the plugs, but it cut after initial start as the control unit expected to see half voltage when the second relay kicked in so went into disabled mode, I now have to find the wire that connects direct to the plugs and cut it then put my own relay in that fires up when the second relay comes on and feed half voltage to the control unit, trouble is I am not sure what resistor to use because this will depend on the load, in other words it will not just be a resistor but a small circuit that reads half of whatever the voltage is at that time as I am sure there will be a comparator built in, pesky control boards, wish Ray was about, Rick

That sounds like an intricate fix Rick, I wish I knew as much about electronics as you and Ray!!! When you going to come and tell us some more stories and share some more knowledge around a camp fire, it's overdue, I bet you're dying for some laning action :clap Where is Ray, I haven't heard from him in ages :nenau

Bloody hell rick.:eek:
And I was thinking, just put a button on the dash to push for a while before starting.
Why so complicated?

It's because he's doing a prappppppeerrrrrrrr jaaaaaaaaabbbbbbbb
(Anyone seen Scrapheap Challenge :nenau )

#patrollife

We can't really talk with our dodgy odometer lcd's and stereo displays :doh
 
That sounds like an intricate fix Rick, I wish I knew as much about electronics as you and Ray!!! When you going to come and tell us some more stories and share some more knowledge around a camp fire, it's overdue, I bet you're dying for some laning action :clap Where is Ray, I haven't heard from him in ages :nenau



It's because he's doing a prappppppeerrrrrrrr jaaaaaaaaabbbbbbbb
(Anyone seen Scrapheap Challenge :nenau )



We can't really talk with our dodgy odometer lcd's and stereo displays :doh


Nah bud, I have a proper head unit now, and I just use my memory maps for a speedo :cool::D
 
Bloody hell rick.:eek:
And I was thinking, just put a button on the dash to push for a while before starting.
Why so complicated?

It is all to do with emissions, they fire the plugs at full power for 10 or so seconds then it switches to what they call "chopping" which means 5 secs on 6 secs off etc till the engine reaches 75c or the revs are held over 2k for 3 mins and or alternator voltage over a certain point, :doh :( Rick
 
It is all to do with emissions, they fire the plugs at full power for 10 or so seconds then it switches to what they call "chopping" which means 5 secs on 6 secs off etc till the engine reaches 75c or the revs are held over 2k for 3 mins and or alternator voltage over a certain point, :doh :( Rick

Er...... right:nenau

Is it struggling to start then?
 
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